Report

On the ascent to the peak 3858° via the North Ridge, made by the group a/l "Baksan" in the period from July 15–16, 1975, consisting of:

• Bodizhevsky V.K. — leader, Master of Sports of the USSR
• Ufimtsev V.D. — participant, 1st sports category
• Kovtun N.P. — participant, 1st sports category
• Kruk I.P. — participant, 1st sports category

Description of the route

From the Azau meadow through the canyon, exit to the final lateral moraine of the tongue of the Bolshoi Azau glacier. Climb up the moraine to the glacier, cross it upwards to the left, and exit to the scree to the "Sand Hotel" below the Chipper-Azaou glacier — to the left of the Bolshoi Azau glacier.

п.­ Volnaya Ispania — в.­ Vjedukh. 4А cat.­ diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47 The exit to the traverse of п.­ Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер.­ Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours). From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier. The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil. Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work. An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.

144. Gadyl via the Eastern ridge (O. Aristov's route, Cat. 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky with the initial bivouac on the rocks of the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, descend westward along the snowy, then rocky ridge under the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the long horizontal snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Traverse the tower via the snowy slopes (belay!) on the left. Further along the long rocky-snowy ridge (overhanging cornices!), both gendarmes on it are traversed on the left, and exit under the rocky-snowy ascent of the Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Via the snow-covered rocks

145. Gadyл via South Ridge (K. Tumanov's route, category 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the snow pad of the South Ridge of Bashkara's South shoulder is described in route 143. From the pad (without backpacks, with crampons!), traverse the snow slope to the right in the direction of the South Ridge. Having passed under the rocks of the (first) left buttress, cross a steep snowy couloir and ascend a steep snowy slope to the rocks of the (second) right buttress of Gadyл peak. Along the snowy slope, then the rocks of moderate difficulty of the buttress or its right side, overcoming small walls directly, exit onto simple rocks and follow them to the rocky belt. From the bivouac - 5-6 hours. Under the wall of the rocky belt, traverse to the right, then via simple rocks and a snowy couloir, ascend to the shoulder of Gadyл peak's South Ridge, above the Big Gendarme in the ridge. From here, along the simple and moderately difficult monolithic rocks of the ridge with small difficult walls, then along the snowy ridge, ascend to Gadyл. From the point of exit onto the South Ridge - 3 hours. Descend via the ascent route or via the East Ridge (see route 144). The duration of the route is 4 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary cord - 2 m, rock pitons - 5-6, ice pitons - 2-3, rock hammers - 2, carabiners - 8-10, crampons - 4 pairs, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder of the South Ridge, on ledges, on the summit. ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumov)

Peak GER­MO­GE­NO­VA, 3343 m via 3rd ridge, cat. cl. 2B, climbing route Bivouac on "Rusty Rocks" (Ry­zhiye skaly). It takes 2 hours to walk from AUSB to dzhan­tug­an. From the bivouac site, we head under the first snowpatch on the right, which is quite steep and descends from the northwest ridge of the summit. After ascending the snowpatch to the ridge, we proceed along the scree and severely damaged rocks to reach the beginning of a distinct ridge. From here to the snowy saddle under the summit tower, there are various possible routes. If the firn is in good condition, a significant part of the rocks can be bypassed on the left while wearing crampons, which saves a lot of time. However, usually, one has to ascend directly through the rocks. The rocks are mostly of medium difficulty, with insurance provided by выступы (rocky ledges); there are sections of damaged rocks. Deviations to the southern side of the ridge (up to 20–40 m) are possible where deemed expedient. On the snowy saddle, an overnight stay is possible; there is water. From here, the summit tower is circumvented on the right, from the southern side. We ascend to the summit ridge to the left of the cairn. The descent follows the ascent route. Approximate time calculation:

1. From "Rusty Rocks" to reaching the ridge — 1–1.5 hours.
2. Ascending to the snowy saddle — 5–8 hours.
3. Ascending to the summit — 1.5–2.5 hours.
4. Descending via the ascent route — from 6 to 9 hours. «Tia­ney»

154. Gumachi via the West Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Zelyonaya gostinitsa” meadow is described in route 146. From “Zelyonaya gostinitsa”:

• move up the gorge;
• reach the Jankuat Glacier;
• ascend the glacier, keeping to its left side, to below the Jantugan Pass, left of two rocky gendarmes on a horizontal ridge between the peaks Jantugan on the right and Gumachi on the left;
• from the glacier, ascend a gently sloping snowy slope with a slight traverse to the right to

pic. and compiled by M.S. M. Romаno. v. Jan-19T'A­li (3991 m) To the ridge, 2A cat. complexity. route 3. Aristova, 35. Exit from the camp along the motor road through Koshi to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa — 3 hours. Overnight stay. Exit from the overnight stay at 2–3 am. Ascent to the Jan-Kuat glacier along the left orographic snow moraine. To the Jan-Tugаn pass — exit under the Aristova rocks in the left part of the glacier. To the plateau from the Zelyonaya gostinitsa: 3–4 hours. Ascent from the plateau:

• Along the talus couloir to the shoulder

313. Dolra — Khevay (combined route, P. Kovaleva, 4A cat. sl., Fig. 32, 42). From the summit Dolra East (m. 307) along simple destroyed rocks of the ridge with three snow-ice bridges (cornices) ascend to the summit Dolra Main. From Main down steep destroyed rocks of the Western ridge with two rappels descent to the saddle. From the saddle along simple destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge ascend to the summit Dolra West. From the West down steep rocks of the Western ridge to the bridge. Bypass a small gendarme of the bridge on slabs to the left. Then along rocks of medium difficulty and snowy slopes on the left side of the ridge bypass on the right V and IV gendarmes of the "pyala" and behind them exit to the bridge. From the bridge along simple rocks of the ridge pass:

• III and II gendarmes of the "pyala"
• rappel under I gendarme Bypass the gendarme by traversing 25 m along steep rocks above medium difficulty to the right (rotten rocks) with exit to the site of the bridge under the ascent of the Eastern ridge of the summit Khevay First East.

From the Baksan valley along the trail leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun pass. From the upper lake, we turn left to the ridge lowering and exit to the bottom pass Don-Guz-Shrun along the scree and gully. Descent 10–15 m down the broken rocks to the glacier and further up the glacier to the right on the southwest ridge of Nakra-Tau. Here, on the flat part of the ridge, is an overnight stay. The path from the Baksan valley to the overnight stay takes 7–8 hours. From the overnight stay site, we descend down the scree into the glacial circus, separating the northwest and west ridges of Nakra-Tau. Descending down, we cross the circus in the direction of the well-defined snow col of the western ridge. Up the steep snowy slope (4–5 ropes), we ascend to the col and exit to the "naran" - the exit from the "Karmen" to the flat snow plateau. Along the snow plateau, we move east to the South Don-Guz-Ortov plateau. From the plateau, we ascend up the gentle snow slope in the direction of the pass between the peaks Don-Guz-Shrun and Nakra-Tau. Having reached the gentle part of the slope, we turn right to the snow ridge, along which we ascend in the direction of a small zenith выступ in the ridge leading to the Don-Guz-Shrun peak. Along the skeleton of the bergschrund and further up the snow-ice slope, leaving the rocky outcrops to the left, we exit to the ridge. Along the simple rocks and snowpatch of the ridge, we ascend to the Main summit of Don-Guz-Shrun. Descent is via the ascent route. The path from overnight stay to overnight stay takes about 12 hours.

• The ascent can be made in any quantitative composition.
• In August, the exit and descent to the "naran" are challenging; on the ground, you need to have tension ropes, three ice hooks, and four clamp devices.

Route Description

From the "Baksan" alpine base, the group departed by car at 8:00 on June 30, 1975, to the lower station of the "Cheget" ropeway and ascended to the "Ai" café. From here, the movement:

• is to the right along the road for 20 minutes,
• then along a faintly marked trail,
• traversing the northeastern slopes of Maly Donguzorun peak,
• we ascend to a saddle in the northern ridge. This is the starting point of the route. The path from the "Ai" café to the saddle takes 3 hours. The first control cairn was set up on the saddle. At 14:00, the group began moving from the saddle in rope teams, to the right along the ridge on snow for 100–120 m below the wall. Up the steep wall (80° steepness) for 15 m to the right and upwards, and exit onto the ridge (pitons used for protection).