- Gumachi via the West Ridge (Category 1B route).
The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Zelyonaya gostinitsa” meadow is described in route 146.
From “Zelyonaya gostinitsa”:
- move up the gorge;
- reach the Jankuat Glacier;
- ascend the glacier, keeping to its left side, to below the Jantugan Pass, left of two rocky gendarmes on a horizontal ridge between the peaks Jantugan on the right and Gumachi on the left;
- from the glacier, ascend a gently sloping snowy slope with a slight traverse to the right to reach the Jantugan Pass.
From “Zelyonaya gostinitsa” — 3–4 hours.
From the pass:
- turn left and ascend the snowy slope on the right side of Gumachi’s West Ridge;
- reach the simple, heavily fragmented rocks of the West Ridge;
- ascend to the summit via the rocks (loose stones!).
From the pass — 2 hours.
Descent — via the ascent route.
Duration of the route — 2 days.
