Activity Feed
Route Description: с перем. З ребра
Description of the ascent route to Peak 6047 m in the Yazgulyam Ridge, Pamir, category 4B difficulty with a detailed description and path diagram.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent type: rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Central Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, from the saddle of the western ridge.
- Proposed difficulty category: 4B.
- Route characteristics: height difference 647 m, average steepness 43°, section lengths — I 460 m, II 225 m, III 334 m, IV 38 m, V 68 m.
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — rock II, ice —, bolted —; for creating ITO — rock 21.
- Number of climbing hours: 13 hours.
- Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
- Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:
Route Description: ЮЗ склону и ЮЗ гребню
Climbing passport for Peak 6047 m in the Yazgulyam Range, Pamir Mountains, via the southern glacier-firn slope with exit to the southern ridge, category of difficulty 4B.
Climbing Passport
I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m
Route Description: ЮЗ стене из ущ. Бартанг
The ascent of Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolutsii via the southwest wall in 1968, accomplished by a combined team of climbers from the USSR Armed Forces.
46
USSR ARMED FORCES
REPORT
ON THE ASCENT OF PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII – 6974 m VIA THE SOUTHWEST WALL FROM THE BARTANG VALLEY, MADE BY THE USSR ARMED FORCES TEAM IN 1968
1968
Fig. 2. Southwest wall of Pik Revolyutsii. The route taken is shown with a dotted line. The photo was taken from the summit of 6254 m.
Photo #3. Southwest wall of Pik Revolyutsii.
The team ascends via the southern ridge:
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the ascent route to the 5306 peak via the southern ridge in the Eastern Pamir, difficulty category 4A.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — technical
- Ascent area — Eastern Pamir
- Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5306 (Ukrainian “Burvestnik”) via the southern ridge
- Estimated difficulty category — 4A
- Route characteristics: height difference — 385 m, length — 1290 m, average steepness of the route — 20°, average steepness of the wall section — 60°, length of sections: – 1st difficulty category — 160 m – 2nd difficulty category — 395 m – 3rd difficulty category — 630 m
Route Description: правой части В стены
Report on the ascent made by a group of climbers in 1980, following a grade 6 difficulty route up the eastern wall of Pik Kholodnaya Stena (5959 m) in the Pamir Mountains.
Ascent Log
- Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
- Ascent area — Yazgulem Range, Central Pamir.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Kholodnaya Stena, 5959 m. Eastern wall (right part).
- Expected difficulty category — 6
- Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty level — 1299 m, average steepness — 80°
- Number of driven pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds: rock — 388/17
Route Description: левой части В стены
Ascent to Peak Golodnaya Stena via the center of the East Face, category of difficulty - high-altitude technical route, elevation gain 1580 m, 7 nights out, 68 walking hours.
I. Ascent category — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Ascent route — p. Kholodnaya Stena 5959 m via the center of the East wall (second ascent, Kovtun's route) 4. Route characteristics:
- height difference — 1580 m;
- route length — 2005 m;
- average steepness — 74°;
- length of complex sections — 1375 m;
- average steepness of the "mirror" — 87° with a length of 740 m.
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of a challenging climbing route along a crumbling rock wall involving artificial aids and alternating types of terrain.
Route description by sections
Section R0–R1, R2–R4, R4–R5, R6–R9, R9–R28, R28–R81, R81–R86, R86–R88, R88–R89, R89–R40, R40–R41, R41–R42, R42–R48, R43–R44 Very destroyed rock wall. Rock wall, in the middle part - a cornice, is passed with the use of artificial support points (И.Т.О.). Alternation of:
- rock walls
- inner corners
- shelves Passed by free climbing (many loose stones).
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of a challenging section of a rock-ice route using free climbing and ice-snow equipment.
— I.O. —
Section: a monolithic rock wall, complicated by an eave in its middle part.
- Free climbing 45–46
- Traverse left under the eave
- Snow possible in the cracks 46–47
- Eave. Traverse from left to right using artificial aids 47–49
- Rock walls with a large number of holds. Free climbing 49–50 Snow and ice slope leading to the ridge 50–51. Rock ascent 51–52 Ice "mushroom" — an overhanging section. Protection with ice screws 52–58 Rock ascent. Many loose rocks 58–54. Snow and ice cornice. Broken through by
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Technical ascent description of Peak 5700 m in the Yazgulem Range, Pamir Mountains, via D-3 ridge from Gantman Pass, difficulty category 3A.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class – technical
- Ascent area – Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge
- Peak, its height, and ascent route – p. 5700 m, from Gantman's Pass along the SW ridge
- Proposed difficulty category – 3A combined
- Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m, average steepness – 30°, section lengths – R1–300 m; R2–280 m; R3–328 m; R4–80 m
- Number of pitons for protection: for creating belays
- rock – 6
- ice – 31
- Number of travel hours – 6 hours
Route Description: с северо-востока
A route description along a rock wall with a detailed indication of obstacles, steepness, and necessary technical techniques for overcoming difficult sections.
углом. There is a small area for one person. From the area, the ascent goes through a crack (7 m), which turns into a narrow chimney (12 m), the steepness of the section is 80–85°. The chimney leads to an area where 6–8 people can be accommodated, and there is 1 control cairn on the area. From the control cairn, the ascent goes straight up through an internal corner (810 m), then traversing left — exit to the external corner and ascent along it 20–25 m to a black inclined shelf going left upwards. From it, it is necessary to move to the right, traversing a complex slab-like part of the wall — 20 m — to a chimney. The chimney widens upwards and is closed by a plug in its upper part. The length of the chimney is 20–25 m. At the base of the chimney, there is a small area where backpacks can be received and