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Report on the First Ascent of the Route to the Summit of Kush-Kaya via the NW Wall

5B category of difficulty

Team Leader — Andrey Martynov (1st sports category).

Coaches — N.V. Kurilskaya (Candidate Master of Sports), V.A. Shadrin (Master of Sports).

Contents

1. Introduction
2. Information about the Area
3. Route Characteristics
4. Itinerary
5. Technical Description of the Route

2.5A. 2294 2nd ascent!

Ascent Record of the 1971 USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent category — Technical, complex.
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus (Shkhara region).
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations — West Shkhara via Southeast wall (5058 m).
4. Ascent characteristics: Elevation gain — 1960 m. Average slope — 75°.

ASCENT CERTIFICATE

of the ascent made in the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent class — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Khalde - Bezengi
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations — Western Shkhara via the center of the southwest wall 5058 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 1500 m
   • average steepness:
     • lower section 60°
     • upper section 90°

Shkhara South via the East Ridge

(combined route by A. Naumov, category 5A, fig. 18, 21). The path from the "Ailama" alpine camp (group of 4-6 people) to the left-bank (orographic) moraine of the Shkhara glacier is described in route 184. From the moraine:

• descend to the right side of the glacier;
• traverse the flat part of the glacier to bypass the icefall and crevasses on the lower part of the glacier on the right;
• approach the base of the East Ridge of Shkhara South peak. From the glacier:
• ascend the scree slope, and higher up, the snow slope, bypassing the base of the East Ridge on the left, to the inner corner - the beginning of the rock ledge that rises to the right towards the takeoff of the East Ridge of Shkhara South peak;
• follow this ledge up and to the right onto the East Ridge, below the sheer wall. At the platform below the wall - a bivouac. From the "Ailama" alpine camp, 12-14 hours. From the platform, ascend a difficult 70-80-meter wall to a ledge, and from it, traverse the slabs to a snow-covered saddle on the East Ridge. From here, follow simple, smooth rocks ("loose rocks") on the wide, snow-covered East Ridge to approach the narrow crest of the East Ridge.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category – combined
2. Ascent area:
   • from Kitlod pass
   • to Gezevcek pass
   • Main Caucasian Range, from the South
3. Galaktion Tobidze Peak Height 4000 m Ascent route via the Southern ridge
4. Suggested category of difficulty — 3B

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To V. 3984 m. Working name — Pik Sokolovoy (Sokolova) Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′42.23″ N. 43°15′46.61″ E) via the Western ridge First ascent presumably 3A category of difficulty Zaryaev V.V. — Galimzyanov T.R.

Dedicated to Ekaterina Sokolova (1984–2014)

St. Petersburg Climbing Championship 2012

Report

Team UTZ FASIL St. Petersburg on ascending Ak-Kaya peak, B. Vasiliev's route variant (1979) on SW wall, cat. 5B

Contents

Climb Passport – p. 3 Photo with route threads to the summit – p. 4 Photo of the general view of the summit with the route thread – p. 5 Brief overview of the area and climb object – p. 7 Climbing area map – p. 8

Report

ON ASCENDING AK-KAYA PEAK VIA VASILYEV'S ROUTE, CATEGORY 5B, BY FA SPb TEAM FROM JANUARY 1 TO JANUARY 5, 2019 St. Petersburg 2019

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. Area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi gorge, section 2.5 of the classification table.
2. Peak name: Ak-Kaya, 3367 m, route: via the Bastion of the left part of the South wall.
3. Proposed - 6A category of difficulty, 2nd ascent.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Route height difference: 520 m. Route length: 730 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty – 445 m, VI category of difficulty – 130 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route – 78°,
   • entire route – 70°.