PASSPORT

Ascent to peak Kalper via the Northeast Edge.

1. Category of ascent: Combined
2. Area of ascent: Tsey, Kalper ridge
3. Summit: Kalper, 3800 m, route via Northeast Edge
4. Estimated category difficulty: 5A–4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference –1100 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty –250 m, average steepness – 45°
6. Pitons used: for belay – 23, for artificial holds – 8, including rock pitons – 29, ice screws – 2.
7. Duration: 20 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2, with available tent sites.

169. Kaltberg (4120 m) via the Western slope and the Northern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, Fig. 35). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-6 people) to the Lower Ice overnight camps is described in route 83. From the Lower Ice overnight camps, cross the Uilpatinka river and, turning left, intersect the right-bank moraine. Descend from it to the Tsey glacier, cross it, then ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest part. Leave the moraine and ascend via the middle talus on the right side of the couloir descending from the Northern ridge of Kaltberg peak. Then:

• cross the couloir to the left and upwards,
• reach a grassy slope and move up along it to the Western counterfort. Further, via simple broken rocks and talus of the Western counterfort, bypassing all gendarmes along simple rocks and talus ledges, ascend to the Northern ridge of Kaltberg. Here, turn right and, via simple rocks, bypassing difficult wall sections on the left, then along the 100-120-meter wide icy-snowy Northern ridge (with protection), approach the Big Gendarme. Here, exit right onto a talus ledge. Along it, then via steep rocks of the Northern ridge, ascend to the Big Gendarme. From the gendarme, make a 12-15 m sports descent to a snowy saddle. Further:
• via steep rocks of the narrow Northern ridge,
• a 30-meter broken ascent,
• ascend to the summit of Kaltberg.

168. Kaltberg (4120 m) via the Eastern slope and Northern ridge (combined route, 2A category of difficulty, Fig. 35). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the Skazskie nochyovki is described in route 166. On the platforms, turn right and exit to the snowy plateau via the destroyed rocky moraine - the slope above the hanging glacier's drop-offs, descending east from the Northern ridge of the Kaltberg peak. Move right-up along the slope - plateau (stonefall is possible from the left). Then, having crossed the bergschrund via a snowy bridge, ascend the steep 180–200-meter ice-snow slope (belay) to the Northern ridge of Kaltberg. Here, turn left. Further:

• Ascend 90 m via simple rocks, then via a gently sloping ice-snow slope of the wide Northern ridge (belay) below the rocks of the Big gendarme.
• Ascend to the Big gendarme's summit via a talus shelf and then via steep rocks of the Northern ridge.
• From the gendarme, make a 15-meter sports descent to a snowy saddle.
• Then, ascend the short, narrow, and destroyed 30-meter rocky slope of the Northern ridge to the Kaltberg summit. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The route duration is 2 days.

Fig. 21 89. Karaugom East (4495 m) via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by V. Lubents, category III, fig. 21). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau to the northwest (closed crevasses) and approach a wide snowy saddle on the ridge connecting the peaks of Vologata on the right and Karaugom on the left. Reach the bergschrund on the left side of the wide snowy slope and, overcoming it via a snow bridge, ascend a steep ice-snow (belay) 300–400-meter slope to the saddle. Here, turn left. Further:

• Along the wide ridge of the saddle (cornice)
• Then along the gradually increasing steepness of the North-Eastern ridge of Karaugom East (cornices)
• Exit through a 10–12-meter ice wall onto the takeoff rocks (pitched belay) Along simple and medium-difficulty takeoff rocks («live» stones, pitched belay) of the North-Eastern ridge, ascend to the shoulder. From the shoulder, along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily destroyed and snow-covered rocky ridge («live» stones — belay) reach the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 6–7 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Source:

Fig. 21 88. Karaugom East (4495 m) via the Southeast Buttress (G. Rebërn's combined route, Category III, Fig. 21). The path from the KSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross northwest across the Karaugom plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the wide southern slope of the Southeast Buttress of Karaugom East. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend a steep 300-400-meter snowy slope (avalanche danger) to the saddle of the Southeast Buttress above the large first pinnacle. On the saddle, turn left and ascend the sharp snowy ridge (cornice). Further, along simple, partially medium-difficulty snow-covered rocks of the Southeast Buttress, approach the large pinnacle. Bypass the pinnacle on the right along a steep ice-snow slope or overcome it directly via steep rocks of medium difficulty (running belay). Behind the pinnacle, initially along a snowy (cornices), then along a heavily damaged rocky Southeast Buttress with "live" rocks - belay - ascend to the shoulder. Here, turn left and along the simple, gently sloping, damaged, and snow-covered (cornices) Northeastern ridge, ascend to the summit of Karaugom East. From the initial bivouac, 7-8 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.

59. KARAUGOM VOSTOCHNY (EAST) via Western ridge (combined route, cat. 4A) Path from CSP of Tseysky district or from the village of Dzinaga to the saddle in the center of Karaugom massif. At the saddle, turn right and along the snowy ridge (cornices), approach under the 1st gendarme of the Western ridge of Vostochny Karaugom peak and bypass 2 gendarmes of the Eastern ridge on the right along steep ice-snow slopes (pitons belay). Tackle the 3rd gendarme head-on via simple and moderately difficult snow-covered rocks of the Eastern ridge; bypass the 4th gendarme on the right along a steep ice-snow slope (pitons belay) and approach under the summit ascent. Along steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty of the ascent "live" rocks — pitons belay (ascent to the summit of Vostochny Karaugom). 10-14 hours from the initial bivouac. Descent via South-eastern counterfort.

86. Karaugom West via the South slope and the East ridge (combined route by M. Anufrikov, 3A category of difficulty, fig. 20, 21). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzanaga (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the West ridge of the Bivouacnaya peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Karaugom plateau and approach (closed crevices) under the southern slope of the wide snow saddle in the middle of the Karaugom massif. From the plateau, reach the bergschrund along the snowy slope. Having overcome it along a snow bridge, ascend 400-500 m along the steep ice-snow slope along the left side of the long rocky spur under the center of the saddle (avalanches and rockfall are possible - piton belay) to the saddle of the massif (cornice). Here, turn left and along the steep 120-150-meter ice-snow slope (cornice - piton belay) of the East ridge, approach under the summit tower. Then, along the 200-250-meter frozen rocks of medium difficulty and the 60-80-meter snowy East ridge, ascend to the summit West Karaugom. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5-7 hours. Descent is done by the ascent route.

"Bikaravgom Zapadny" Route via the West Ridge

(combined, 4A cat. diff.) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the starting point on the platforms of the West Ridge of Bivuchnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 2-3 am due to rockfall in the couloir and the length of the route):

• Cross the Karaugom plateau.
• Move along the wide snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the peak and the West Gendarme.
• From the plateau, ascend 50-70 m up the snowy slope of the wide couloir to the bergschrund.
• Overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
• Ascend 250-300 m along the left side of the wide, steep snow-ice couloir (possible rockfall — prepare equipment).
• Reaching the foot of the rocky walls of the West Gendarme, traverse 100-120 m along the couloir beside the rocks on the right side of the gendarme (rockfall onto the saddle of the West Ridge — cornice — is possible on the right).

62. West Karaugom via the North Edge

(combined route, 5A category) Path from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac near the Gular Glacier under the Northwest wall of Karaugom. From the bivouac, approach the left side of the North edge of West Karaugom peak via the Gular Glacier. From the glacier, ascend 80 m via "ram foreheads," then 200–250 m via ledges, easy and moderately difficult rocks. Next, ascend 40–50 m via snowy, slab-like steep rocks and a narrow snowy ledge on the left side of the North edge to approach the ice couloir descending from the right of the edge. Ascend 170–200 m up the ice-snow couloir with rock islands, bypassing a rock wall in its middle on the left. From the couloir, ascend via difficult rocks of an 80-meter wall to reach the North edge. 5–7 hours from the initial bivouac. Ascend 200 m straight up the sharp monolithic North edge with three steep rises. Then, make a 12–15 m rappel to a col. Traverse via heavily broken rocks of the col to reach the rocks on the left side of the North edge, then ascend via slab-like rocks of a difficult 90-meter wall (30–40 m to the right of the chimney) to reach the North edge. Continue via simple, gently sloping, heavily broken rocky North edge with ice-snow sections and ledges to ascend beyond a small gendarme onto a ledge. Bivouac on the site. 12–14 hours from the initial bivouac.

ASCENT REPORT ON MESHENA EASTERN (3130 m) VIA ROUTE 2B DIFFICULTY CATEGORY, SOUTHERN COULoir BY "UAL" TEAM ON APRIL 18, 2022

Ascent Passport

1. General Information 1.1. Leader Chikin A.B. 1st sports category 1.2. Participants Gurenko T.Yu. 2nd sports category 1.3. Coach Yakovenko A.N. 1.4. Organization "UAL"
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object 2.1. Caucasus. Skalisty Range. Digoria 2.2. Urukh valley