Appendix №3 Description of the First Ascent Route to Peak Vas'kova D (A. Abramov, 1976) in the Database of Climbing Route Descriptions FAR №2840.pdf

PAMIR

BERUOVIE

LETNIK

FERMENO

Description of the first ascent to Peak T.E. Vas'kova (6100 m) via a combined route of 5A category difficulty along the southern ridge. The first ascent was made by a group from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" sports society on August 24, 1976. The team consisted of: Leader I. A. Ya. Abramov, 2. G. P. Lernovoi, 3. G. S. Yazovskikh (leader of the first ascent to Peak Vasilyeva via a 4A category route in 1967). Launching officer - B.G. Tarkhanov - Master of Sports in mountaineering, senior instructor.

Ascent to the summit Bezymyannaya

The summit Bezymyannaya is located at the southern end of the Akademii Nauk ridge in the immediate vicinity of the Abdukagor-II pass, in a cirque formed by the peaks 6060 m and Vysokiy Tanymas. The height of the summit is 5814 m. The easiest route runs along the south-eastern ridge of the summit - the first ascent route. The route is snow-ice.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. Further, the path goes:

• through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one;
• and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which rises steeply upwards (1 h). Along the trail, we ascend to the Abdukagor glacier's icefall, where there are level areas with water (1 h). After resting on the platforms, we pass the icefall in teams and on crampons (40 min). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°). The glacier is closed, but in places heavily broken. We move all the time in teams. The ascent from the icefall to the pass is 500–600 m (3–3.5 h). Beyond the third ascent, the glacier flattens out and turns into a snow plateau. On the right (along the path) side of the plateau, a cave has been dug out, where we spend the night. Height 5100 m. There is water in the muldas on the plateau.

Day 2

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

Contents

• Title Page

VT8

USSR ALPINISM FEDERATION (врedo тр9) USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 1973

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Lyap-Nazar (5984 m) via the northeast wall Alpclub "Donbass" Captain and coachM.S.SIVTSOV B.G. DONETSK–1973

GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LYAP-NAZAR SUMMIT (5984 m)

The Lyap-Nazar summit (5984 m) translates from the Rushani dialect as "Visible Tooth" (Lyap-tooth, Nazar-view). It is located at the eastern end of one of the Yazgulem Ridge spurs and stands out among neighboring peaks with its impressive "height". The southern walls of Lyap-Nazar drop steeply towards the Bartang River above the Roshorv village. An 8-hour ascent from the village up the Yazgulem-dara River leads to the confluence of the Lyap-Nazar Glacier stream and Yazgulem-dara. The Northeast wall of Lyap-Nazar rises 2400 m above the glacier. For the past 4 years, the wall has attracted climbers with its inaccessibility and beauty, but expeditions focused on higher mountains in the area, such as Peak Revolyutsii and the 26 Baku Commissars, left this wall untouched, and until 1973, there were no attempts to ascend it.

23

Climbing passport. Climbing category — high-altitude technical. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Khavraz-Dara valley. Peak, its height, route — p. Yu. Manoylova 5870 m via NE wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1670 m
• length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m
• average steepness of the main part — 70°
• wall length — 1025 m Pitons driven:
• Rock 82/6
• Bolt 0/0

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 6277 (Peak Parrot), NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 760 m average steepness — 30°
6. Protection anchors driven: ice screws — 2
7. Number of climbing hours — 18
8. Number of nights on the route and their characteristics —

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category: Snow and Ice
2. Ascent area: Yazgulem Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P. 6047 m, via the northwestern slope
4. Proposed category: 3A, protocol 547, part 10, dated February 5, 1985
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths — R0–R1 300 m, R1–R2 40 m, R2–R3 200 m, R3–R4 80 m, R4–R5 1000 m, R5–R6 20 m, R6–R7 100 m
6. Number of pitons: ice screws 30
7. Climbing time: 14 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2
9. Names of the team leader and participants, their climbing qualifications:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Yazgulem Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, from the saddle of the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 647 m, average steepness 43°, section lengths — I 460 m, II 225 m, III 334 m, IV 38 m, V 68 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — rock II, ice —, bolted —; for creating ITO — rock 21.
7. Number of climbing hours: 13 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: none.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

Climbing Passport

I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m

Ascent Record. I. Technical Category. 2. Central Pamir. 3. Peak Pasor (unnamed peak, 6047 m) via the north face. 4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately). 5. Route characteristics: The face on Peak Pasor. Length — 1405 m, including sections of category 5B — 330 m, 5A — 315 m, category 4 — 475 m, category 3 — 180 m, category 2 — 100 m. Average steepness — 65°, steepness of category 5 sections — 70°. Total route length — 1760 m. Total elevation gain — 1150 m. 6. Pitons used: * for belaying: * rock: 60 * ice: 7