Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

18. Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge. The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30). Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge. Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.

99. Dinamo via the East Ridge. The route is rocky, category III (fig. 5, 87, 9.5, 97, 101, 102). Length 1000 m, II 550 m, time 4 hours 10 minutes. The approach path from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size not limited) to the initial bivouac at the terminal moraine of the upper Beketty gorge is described in route 1. From the initial bivouac, approach the left side of the broad base of the East ridge of Dinamo peak. From the moraine, a 15-meter ascent up difficult simple rocks on the northeast slope of the North ridge. Then, 140–150 m up and to the right along a simple slope with easy scree shelves to a couloir, and up it 40–50 meters to the East ridge. Then, traverse 800–1000 meters along scree and easy broken rocks under the rocky walls of the left slope of the long East ridge, with numerous sharp gendarmes, to approach the summit rise. Up easy broken rocks, scree alternating with short simple walls ("live" rocks, protection) on the left side of the rise, ascend to the summit ridge and along it to the summit of Dinamo. From the initial bivouac, 3–4 hours.

LOCATION

Peak P.Lumumba is located in the northern spur of the Alay Range (South Tian Shan or Pamir-Alay) in the upper reaches of the Gavmen (Galyuan) River. Its height is 4405 m. The attached diagram clearly defines its location.

APPROACHES

From the town of Haydarkan, located in the western part of the Frunze district of Osh region within the basin of the Sokh River, a small but powerful vehicle (e.g., GAZ-69) can drive up the Gavian (Golyuan) River valley for about 14 km. Further:

• The road turns into a trail.
• We ascend along the trail on the right or left orographic bank of the Gavman River to the moraine, where we set up the base camp. Around the campsite, there is a juniper forest on the slopes.

ASCENT ROUTE

№ 539 and 34 dated 24.04.84 Order number

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, height, ascent route — Korona Sang-Hoka, 4250 m, from the west via the saddle.
4. Difficulty category — 3A (first ascenders suggested 4A)
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 700 m. Average steepness — 45°
6. Protection devices used:

up 539 n 30 dated 24.04.84 4 A n/l cu ASCENT REPORT. 1. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area — Sanghok, Gissar Ridge. 3. Peak — p. 4100, proposed name by first ascensionists p. Treugolny (Triangular). 4. Ascent route — via the western edge. S ridge Proposed difficulty category — 4A. 5. Height difference — 350 m, average slope 45–50°. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 30 m. 6. Number of protection pitons — 20 rock pitons.

№ 539 "32" dated 24.04.84 4Б cat. diff./n

Ascent Passport

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Hissar Range
3. Peak, height, ascent route — XXX лет «Варзобу», 4367 m, via the central ridge from the northeast.
4. Category of difficulty — 4Б (proposed)
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 250 m, Average steepness — 65°, Length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 95 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Sang-Hok, Hissar Range
3. Peak, elevation, ascent route — XXX years of "Varzob" 4367 m, via the center of the western bastion.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (estimated)
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 75°. Route length — 1000 m.
6. Pitons placed:

Ascent to the summit of Avicenna Peak

via NW ridge - 26 km journey The ascent to the summit starts from a bivouac located on the upper moraine of the Avicenna Glacier under Seraia Peak. Cross the Avicenna Glacier and head towards the snowy couloir descending from a gap in the NW ridge of Avicenna. The gap is located far to the right of the summit. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund, above which the couloir narrows and reaches a steepness of 40–45°. When ascending, stick to the right side of the couloir. From the gap, follow the left side of the ridge, initially traversing icy slabs - 6–7 m, then snow, staying close to the rocks. The snowy slope is steep - 40–45°, requiring protection through outcrops and pitons. Overcoming this 150 m section, reach a chimney 15 m high formed by the ridge rocks and a large standalone rock. After the chimney, a short rocky section with alternate protection leads to a small flat area. Continue with alternate protection along moderately difficult rocks, traversing the ridge on the left side. Then, follow a small snowpatch, bypassing it from below. Next, overcome a 10-meter chimney on steep granite rocks to reach the ridge. Protection through outcrops. The further 50 m path along the ridge on easy rocks presents no significant difficulties. A control cairn is built at the highest point of this section. Descend to the base of a gendarme along easy rocks on the ridge and a 4-meter wall. The gendarme is bypassed on the left by descending down the rock and snow along the gendarme for about 20 m. Pitons are used for protection during the bypass. Then, ascend to the right along easy rocks towards the ridge until reaching the boundary between rocks and snow. Descend from the ridge to a snowpatch via a narrow chockstone. Approach the next gendarme, which is taken head-on, along the snowpatch. Once on the gendarme, move along smooth granite rocks and descend via a chimney to the foot of a large dome-shaped gendarme.

Fig. 8.