GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;

St. Petersburg Alpine Climbing Championship 2020 (high-altitude technical class) Report on the ascent to Dalar peak (3979 m) via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana), category 5A. The route was completed by the team of the Alpine Federation of St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg 2020

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar Pass to Chiperezaou Pass. Section No. 2.3 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Dalar peak (3979 m), via the north buttress of the north shoulder (Tramontana).
3. Category of complexity — 5A.

Dalar

up the North-East wall. Team of “Trud” Sports Society Team leader: Master of Sports of the USSR Snesarev A. A. Team captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Stepanov V. V. The summit of “Dalar”, view from the North

Brief sports characteristic of Dalar peak

The year of the beginning of the development of the Gvandra region, where the Dalar peak is located, should be considered 1936, but already in 1937 most of the peaks in this region were conquered.

Ascent Passport:

1. Ascent class: technical
2. West Caucasus, Uzunkol. 3rd ascent of Dalar (3979 m) via the northeastern ridge, V. Stepanov's route (1962)
3. Route category: 5B
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1000 m

• Route length: 1410 m, including 775 m of 5th category difficulty and 60 m of 6th category difficulty
• Average route slope: 68°

6. Pitons left on the route: 1 закладка (chock)

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperaza pass 3. Mt. Dalar, right part of the North Face (V. Shopin route) 4. Category 5B difficulty, third ascent 5. Route elevation gain — 760 m, route length — 1060 m, wall elevation gain — 500 m, wall length — 640 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 370+280=650 m. Average steepness of the wall — 70° (3270–3720 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors 149/24 (0+7)/(–87/11) 7. Team's walking hours — 28 and days — 2. 8. Joint snow overnight stay.

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE VOLGA AND URAL FEDERAL DISTRICTS IN ALPINISM TECHNICAL AND ALTITUDE CLASS

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DALAR (3988 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE OF THE EASTERN SHOULDER, CATEGORY 5B COMPLEXITY (POROKHNI YU.I. ROUTE) BY THE TEAM FROM SAMARA REGION AND PERM TERRITORY FOR THE PERIOD FROM AUGUST 16 TO 17, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Certificate

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region.
3. Peak DALAR, 3979 m, via the north-eastern wall of the bastion.
4. Category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, bastion — 780 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 850 m, average steepness of the bastion — 76° (2780–3560 m), sections with 6 category difficulty — 85° (3010–3050 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | Type | Rock | Bolt | Chock | Ice | | :--------------- | :--- | :--- | :---- | :--- |

Dalar Maly from Dalar Pass, rock, 2B

Route Description:

From Dalar Pass, go left along the ridge's ruined rocks, keeping to the right side, to the first ridge ascent. Climb 30 m to the left onto a wide ridge made of blocks and slabs. Along the 150-meter ridge, then along the wide ridge scree, overcoming the second ridge ascent, approach the first gendarme. Be cautious when bypassing R0–R4, especially if the slabs are covered with snow. Then reach the saddle, bypass the second gendarme and the "Per'ya" gendarme on the right; further, on the right, along the 10-meter wall of the "Shakhmatny kon'" gendarme (when transitioning from the ledge to the wall R12 — loose rocks!) ascend to the "Stolb" gendarme. Bypass "Stolb" along the inclined ledges on the right (water, loose rocks!). From the saddle behind "Stolb", along the ledges to the right of the ridge, reach the summit. From the bivouac on the pass to the summit — 4–6 hours. Descent — along the ascent path to the saddle before the first gendarme R5. From here, go left-down along the scree couloir and scree ledges to the base of the ridge from the southern side. Traverse the base of the ridge to reach Dalar Pass. From the summit — 2.5 hours.

• Departure time from bivouac — 6:00;
• if the descent couloir and subsequent ledges are heavily snow-covered, return to Dalar Pass along the ascent route. DALAR (view from the south)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route: Maly Dalar peak, 3500 m — via the southern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 50–55°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 37 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. for creating RTO (Relay and Belay Point): 1 pc., 0, 0.
7. Number of travel hours: 7 hours.

I. Technical difficulty category 2. Caucasus, Adyr-Su gorge 3. Peak Dzhadlyk via the West counterfort of the Western ridge 4533. 4. Proposed — 4th category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 700 m, length — 1025 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 7° (3870–4350), including 6th category of difficulty — 85° (3870–3900) 90° (3930–3940), 90° (4140–4155), 85° (4170 — traverse 20 m) 6. Pitons hammered in: rock (65+5ˣ)/12 6/4