The description is compiled based on materials from the training part of Ulutau a/l.

Description of the Approach to the Route

From the AGЛК "Jailyk", cross the bridge over the Adyr-Su river downstream. Behind the bridge, to the left near the source, a trail begins, going through the forest up the slope in the direction of the Jalovchat lake. Climbing along the trail:

• Cross to the left (green) moraine, leading to the N. counterfort of the E. ridge in Koy-Avgan.
• Continue ascent along the moraine.
• The N. counterfort of the E. ridge is dissected by a large couloir in its lower part.
• Ascend along the green moraine until the upper part of the counterfort dissected by the couloir starts to overhang on the left.
• Here, turn left and ascend up the slope to the rocks of the counterfort, leaving the couloir to the right.
• The start of the route is in the middle (between two rocky spurs) of the lower part of the bastion, which is crowned with a rocky tooth and connected by a narrow ridge to the main part of the counterfort.

331. Nenskra via North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, cat. 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snow plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra peak, ascend via an avalanche-prone couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks alternating with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks) to the Upper Rock Belt. From there, ascend steep, heavily broken rocks of above-average difficulty to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, reach the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast peaks of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7-8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the ridge spur to the summit of Nenskra Southwest. Descend to the col via the ascent route. From the col, via monolithic simple and moderately difficult rocks of the ascent, then along the long Western ridge, ascend to the summit of Nenskra Northeast. From the Northeast summit, descend via heavily broken simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Northeast ridge to the col under the Big Gendarme. Overcome the Gendarme head-on via simple rocks of the ridge, then via rappelling and sport descent to the saddle under the snowy shoulder. From the saddle, via a simple snow-covered rocky ridge, exit onto the snowy shoulder. From the shoulder, via a gentle snow-covered rocky ridge, descend to the snow plateau under the nameless Main Caucasian Ridge pass. From the Southwest peak, 5-7 hours.

319. Leiraq via the West Ridge (combined route, T. Suprunova, category 3A complexity, fig. 32, 43). On the right side of the Leiraq Glacier (milestone 316) ascend along the northern slopes of the Unnamed Peak to the saddle in the West Ridge of Leiraq peak — the Alpinist Pass. Here, turn right and, crossing the bergschrund, ascend the steep snow-ice slope or, to the left, along the scree and easy rocks to the Alpinist Pass. Bivouac. 5–7 hours from the village of Nakra. At the pass, turn left and reach the West Ridge rocks of Leiraq peak. Follow the straightforward 200-meter West Ridge, overcoming three small gendarmes directly (with protection), to reach a plateau with a small lake. From the lake, ascend a 30–40-meter wall of moderate difficulty (using pitons) to a plateau. Then, traverse 30–40 meters of steep rocks of moderate difficulty («unstable rocks», with protection); subsequently, follow the straightforward rocky, partially snow-covered (with cornices) West Ridge with an ice pitch to reach the summit of Leiraq. 5–6 hours from the Alpinist Pass.

As­cen­sion along the North­ern coun­ter­force and North­west

De­scrip­tion of Shar­ni­rog

From the ridge of the Bok­tu­zu­ruk hinge to the North, compressed between the North­ern coun­ter­forc­es of v. Ka­za­ra and 300–400 m away from them, be­hind large boul­ders, by­pass­ing the last corn­er of the na­ga­to­go. The en­trance to the boul­ders of the root and the growth are at­trib­uted to the whole Shar­ni­rog. With beds along sim­ple ris­ing ter­rain, com­pressed coun­ter­force wool up­wards. Solid­i­fi­ca­tion with hard 60 m along the spe­cif­ic corn­er with a сквоз­nym for­est, then 150–200 m along com­pressed me­dium-dif­fi­culty ter­rain to mi­nua­da­li. Above the skill com­pressed with skele­ton (along mi­nua­dale konzro­reyevom 150). Skill-ful wool, en­circled from the left. Be­hind it up­wards along com­pressed

331. Nenskra via the North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, category 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snowy plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra Peak, ascend via an avalanche couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks, interspersed with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks), to the Upper Rock Belt. From here, via steep, heavily broken rocks of above average difficulty, ascend to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, ascend to the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast summits of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7–8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend via easy rocks of the ridge's spur to the summit of

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Olimpiycev, 3805 m, via the western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 200 m
   • average steepness — 40 m
   • length of section I — 400 m
6. Number of travel hours — 2

Description of the Pik I Maya 4B cat. sl. route

From the base of the central couloir of Pik I Maya to the right side 200–230 m to the right side of the rocky outcrop. In its center — an exit to the ridge on its summit. Control cairn. From it:

• 70 m along the ice couloir on the left side
• 30 m along the slabs
• 100 m along the ice crust under the wall of the II couloir to the inner corner
• Traverse left 25 m
• 4th wall of the couloir upwards to the left along the rocks of medium difficulty under the inner corner of the 4th gendarme, S/3 of the ridge
• 20 m along the corner, a slab is hanging above
• Ascent to the shoulder

25. Syltran via the East Ridge (Route 1B cat.). The path from the settlement of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac by Syltrangel Lake is described in Route 22. From the bivouac by the lake, ascend along the right bank of the stream to the exit onto a small unnamed glacier flowing down the northern slopes of the East Ridge of Syltran peak to Syltrangel Lake. Walk up the glacier towards a solitary rock among the scree slopes descending from the East Ridge of Syltran. To the right of the rock, via a scree-filled couloir (rockfall hazard!), ascend to the East Ridge of Syltran. From the lake, 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and ascend over snowfields, then over scree and heavily broken simple rocks of the East Ridge. Traverse large rock towers - gendarmes on the left (with protection!). Further, over scree and simple rocks of the ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Syltran. From the col, 2–2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. “Baksan Valley”, A. F. Naumov

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.