ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SYMBOLS. SCALE 1:2000

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

Leader V. Vasilenko +3, 1978 From the base camp located at the 58th km of the Khorog - Osh highway, we approach the Gaf Glacier along the left (orographically) side of the Nemacdar River. We ascend to the Gaf Pass via its left part. The approach time is 5–6 hours from the base camp. The entire approach path is clearly visible from the 59th km of the Khorog - Osh highway. General view of the peak 5204 m from the East. — route along the S ridge from Gaf Pass (leader V. Vasilenko) — route along the E face (leader I. Orbei) — route along the center of the E face (leader Kh. Kornys). Peak Gif Beginning of the S ridge

Map of the area worked by the 4C 6CO, A6a (3) 3 group, with the designation of ascent routes in 1978, June 28 — August 10. Base camp "Fann Mountains"

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Zun Khandagai valley, section 6.1.70
2. Peak Irkutsk, 2742 m, via the South Counterfort.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Height difference 350 m, length 525 m, average slope 40°.
6. Pitons hammered: rocky and wired — 20.
7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours.
8. No overnight stays.
9. Group:

Sections R3–R7

• R3
• R4
• R5
• R6
• R7 Section R5–R6
• R5
• R6

1. Mt. Orel 1915 m, center of North wall, 2004 (first ascent) diff. cat.
2. Leader: Davy M.M., Master of Sport
3. Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain range, Taygishonok river gorge
4. Section in Classification

22nd Open Russian Championship in Alpinism 2004

Rock Climbing Class

Report

On the first ascent by the team from the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk region (FAiS Sverdlovsk region) on Mt. Orel 1915 m via the center of the north wall. 6B category of difficulty.

Addresses:

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Climbing area: Western Sayan Mountains, Ergaki Ridge
3. Ptitsa Peak, 2200 m, via the buttress on the N wall
4. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 400 m
   • Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty: 160 m
   • Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
   • Average steepness of the ridge section: 30°

ASCENT LOG

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), South Ridge
3. Cat. 1B diff.
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 70 m. Route length — 550 m. Length of sections: Cat. V diff. — none. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections R9–R11, R16) — 75°
   • entire route — 30°

ROUTE DIAGRAM IN SIMVOLDS, 1:5000

ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS, MI: 2500

Route diagram in symbols.