Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT MUKAL VIA ROUTE 2A CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" FROM PYATIGORSK ON JUNE 10, 2021

I. Ascent Passport

520025 ­мкб ­реб­пы

The ascent to p. Blizhniy was one of the training ascents for groups working as part of the High Pamir Expedition of Leningrad State University in 1968. The route along the eastern ridge is a combined route:

• about 100 m of broken rocks with a steepness of 45–50°;
• an ice slope of 80 m with a steepness of about 45°, covered with loose snow. From the base camp (see the description of the route to p. Volodarskogo) along the main slope to the river flowing from the plateau below p. V. Slutskaya. Crossing by stones is possible only in the morning hours. Further along the main slope in the direction of the eastern ridge of p. Blizhniy. The approach to the start of the route takes 3 hours. The main ridge, which then turns into the eastern ridge, leads to steep rocks, which are bypassed on the right. About 2.5 ropes of medium-difficulty rocks, with good ledges for belaying everywhere. The rocky ridge turns into a sharp ice ridge, but movement along it is hazardous due to snow cornices. Further:

Ascent Certificate

I. Technical Grade 2. South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. V. Garm-Chashma (4900), via the spur of the southern ridge, combined route 4. Proposed — Category 3B complexity 5. Height difference — 700 m, length — 1350 m, length of sections with category 4 complexity — 160 m, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55° 6. Pitons driven: rock 34/0, chocks 26/0, ice 1/0 7. Number of climbing hours — 10 8. No overnight stays

1. Group Composition

1. Yeremenko G. N. — 1st sports category, Kharkov (leader)
2. Slobodyanik L. I. — 2nd sports category, Kharkov
3. Grigorenko — Prigoda D. I. — Master of Sports, Kharkov

2. Object Characteristics

The Ishpro peak is located in one of the western spurs of the Shakhdarin ridge. The peak and the chosen route are visible when approaching the Andorob village (see Photo 1). It is clearly visible when ascending the slopes above the Garm-Chashma village. The peak is well-known to local residents as its glacial-snow cover supplies the irrigation canal system (aryks) around Garm-Chashma with water. All slopes on the left (orographic) bank of the Garm-Chashma River are crisscrossed by a network of aryks, which are convenient to use as trails when approaching Ishpro peak. Translated, Ishpro means "peak that blocks the wind." We named it "Compass Rose." Photo 1. View of Ishpro peak from Andorob village.

Map-Scheme

Team Report

Sverdlovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports on the Ascent of Peak Mayakovsky via the NW Wall

Class — High-altitude Technical

Report

On the First Ascent to Peak 5215 m (Soviet Badakhshan Peak) via the West Face in the Southwestern Pamir by the team from the Kharkov Regional Sport Committee:

• BERSHOV S.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• BAKHTIGOZIN V.A. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA Yu.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
• TKACHENKO V.S. — Master of Sports of the USSR July 28 — August 7, 1975 KHARKOV

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1. Climbing category - technical
2. Climbing area - South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Climbing peak - p. 4695 m (Inzin), route via western edge of northern slope.
4. Proposed category - 3B
5. Climbing characteristics - elevation gain 1050 m, average steepness 60°.
6. Pitons driven - rock - 18
7. Total hours on the move - 9 hours + 3 hours 30 minutes
8. Team name - Sports group of Kharkov sports committee expedition.
9. Surname, name and patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualification.
   1. Matveev Yu.I. - leader, 2nd sports category

1. Climbing category - technical.
2. Climbing area - South-West Pamir. 46 pc uf 4160518/5-76 pr Daybog
3. Ascent route - peak 5243 m via the South-West bastion of the Western wall, ascending to peak 5080 m through the VEZ pass from the Vez-Dara gorge.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference - 1345 m, average steepness - 67°, length of complex sections - 365 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock - 114 pcs, ice - 6 pcs.
6. Duration - 30 hours.
7. Number of nights on the route - 2 bivouacs in a tent.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Zaalayskiy ridge (section 4.4 p. 13 KMGV).
2. Route: Jipak peak (4472 m), S ridge (G. Starikov, 1967).
3. Cat. difficulty: 1B rock.
4. Route characteristics: rock route.
5. Height difference of the route: 250 m.
6. Route length: 350 m.
7. Length of sections of 1st cat. difficulty: 300 m.
8. Average steepness of the main part: 40°.
9. Maximum steepness: 45°.