ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Region — Pamir-Alay
3. Sauk-Jaylau (Main) via the northern wall bastion
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference – 1250 m, length – 1495 m, wall section – 975 m, average steepness of the wall section – 78°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 935 m (3960–4930), including 6 category of difficulty – 405 m (4010–4460)
6. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Report on the First Ascent

Teams from the Republic of Buryatia to p. Sauk-Djaylau 4866 m via the Bastions of the Northern Ridge. July 19, 2015. Approximately 5B–6A category of difficulty. Ulan-Ude, 2015.

Climbing Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Archekanysh (Surmetash) gorge. Section number according to the classification table 5.1.1
2. Peak: Sauk-Djaylau 4866 m (peak coordinates: 39°46′0.47″ N 71°56′4.48″ E, height and coordinates determined by GPS), via the Bastions of the Northern Ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B–6A, first ascent, second ascent overall.
4. Route type: Combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 916 m (3950 m–4866 m). Route length: 1100 m.

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Sauk-Djaylyau Central via the ice couloir on the north wall, category 6A, by a team from Tomsk region and St. Petersburg from September 6, 2019 to September 8, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Alai Ridge (northern spur)
3. Peak: South-East Sauk Jailyau from the north (third ascent), 4730 m
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1210 m from the col at 600 m average steepness from the col 59° section lengths see table
6. Pitons used for protection to create ITO:

Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall, 6A cat. (Onysko route) Pamiro-Alai 5.1.1. Alai Ridge

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alai, Archa-Kanysh valley.
3. Sauk-Dzhaiylau South peak via the West wall.
4. 6A cat. (3rd ascent)
5. Height difference 1330 Wall section height difference 980 Average steepness of the wall section 73°. Route length 1440.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alay range — 5.1
3. Peak, its height, route — Main Sauk-Dzhaylyau via Central peak with ascent to Central peak via northern wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 6th cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference:
   • to Central peak — 1505 m
   • to Main peak — 198 m Total height difference of wall section — 1703 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT 102

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Alai Ridge
3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height approximately 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — approximately 1100 m. average slope: 55° section lengths: 2nd difficulty category – 160 m, 3rd difficulty category – 190 m, 4th difficulty category – 300 m, 5th difficulty category – 590 m, 6th difficulty category – 40 m.
6. Pitons driven:

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Alai Range
3. Peak: Pik Synovey, height about 5100 m, ascent route - via the North face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 1100 m, average steepness: 55°, length of sections: 2nd cat. diff. — 160 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 190 m, 4th cat. diff. — 300 m, 5th cat. diff. — 590 m, 6th cat. diff. — 40 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 49

Ascent Passport

I. Category of technically complex ascents 2. Pamir-Alay. Alay Ridge. Podkova Kosmonavtov. 3. Titov Peak (approximately 4800 m) via the northern counterfort. 4. 4B category of difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference 700 m; b) length of section with IV–V category of difficulty 350 m; c) average steepness 53°. 6. Pitons hammered for belay and creating ITO:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge 3. Peak, its height, v. Uzbekistan, 5100 m, ascent route: northern wall (second passage) 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 65°, section lengths: 2 diff. cat. — 35 m, 3 diff. cat. — 180 m, 4 diff. cat. — 380 m, 5 diff. cat. — 540 m, 6 diff. cat. — 95 m 6. Pitons driven: