USSR Alpine Climbing Championship

High-altitude technical class.

Report

on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningradskaya Western (6470) via the Southwest wall from Lipsky Glacier, approximately category 6 difficulty.

Moscow

1981 Photo of the wall

Photo of the route profile.

I. Climbing category — high-altitude 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Peter I Ridge 3. Peak — Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the NE wall from Fortambek Glacier 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2835 m, section lengths: III cat. diff. — 160 m, IV cat. diff. — 700 m, V–VI cat. diff. — 3515 m, including wall sections (excluding the pre-summit ridge) — 2615 m, average steepness — 75° (wall section) 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors: rock — 175, 15; ice — 101, 24; bolt — 3, 3 7. Total climbing hours — 143 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: twelve bivouacs, including one sitting and four semi-sitting due to limited platform sizes.

28

Georgian Climbing Club

named after A. B. Japaridze

Class of Traverses

Traverse

Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:

• G. Abashidze, Master of Sports

Report

on the first ascent to Peak 7490 m (Peak N. Ostrovsky) via the West Ridge, made by the combined team of the Ukrainian SSR Sports Committee, led by S.I. Bershov, consisting of:

• G.I. Vasilenko
• V.G. Boyko
• V.P. Gordeev
• S.K. Sentsov
• V. Rekoslavsky
• P.F. Slavinsky
• A.N. Tolstousov Between June 8 and June 13, 1979.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent area: North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route: Peak 5490 m via the North-Eastern ridge, first ascent
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 2290 m
   • Average steepness: 55° (from the saddle between Peak 4050 m and the NE ridge of Peak 5490 m)
   • Length of sections:
     • I–II difficulty category – 2600 m

Passport

I. Altitude-Technical Class

2. Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
4. Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
7. Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7

Passport

First ascent made in 1975

1. Climbing category — traverse
2. Climbing area — North-West Pamir
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Traverse of the three peaks of Oshanina (6305 m, 6380 m, 6300 m) from Turamys Glacier.
4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 2450 m. Average steepness 50°. Length of the difficult section 1700 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock 133 ice 76

Report

on the traverse of the peaks of the northwestern spur of the Petra I ridge: Zapadny Oshanina (6305) — Centralny Oshanina (6390) — Vostochny Oshanina (6310) — 30 let Sovetskogo Gosudarstva (6447) — Moskva (6785) with ascent to Zapadny Oshanina peak from the Shini-Bini saddle via the northern ridge (first ascent) Team of Moscow City Council "Burevestnik" Sports Society Team captain: Candidate Master of Sports V. Khomutov. Team coach: Master of Sports Yu. Borodkin.

Route Characteristics

Peaks included in the traverse:

Protocol No. 398, January 15, 1975 Report On the ascent to the summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" (5079 m) (approximately category 3B) by a group of climbers from the MAI sports club. The summit "Podvodnaya Lodka" is located in the Central Pamir region, in one of the northern spurs of the Peter the First ridge. Fig. I, ascent scheme. From a sporting perspective, the summit may be of interest for initial acclimatization climbs with the aim of gradual, gentle adaptation to high altitude. Characteristic features of this route, as well as the entire region:

• Unstable rock formations

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
4. Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
6. Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |