Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Tютю Су gorge
3. Mt. Тютю Glavnaya via North Ridge, 4460 m
4. Category 6B (approximate), route by I. Slesov, third ascent
5. Height difference — 1310 m, length — 1675 m. Average steepness of the upper wall section — 77°. Average steepness of the lower section — 65°. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 670 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 540 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Type | Quantity | | :--------- | :--------- |

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF TEGENEKLIBASHI PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A (ORIENTATIONAL) DIFFICULTY LEVEL AM AUSC Tyrnyauz UTS Tegenekli May 1, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Report on the First Ascent in the 1973 USSR Alpine Championship

on the peak 5497 m via the northwest wall by the team of the Ukrainian Committee for Physical Culture and Sports From June 14 to June 23, 1973, under the leadership of Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I.

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Object

Peak 5497 m is located in the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. The first researcher of this region was botanist B.A. Fedchenko, who visited in 1904, but his research was not published. In 1931, P. Luknitsky, a Pamir researcher and participant in the Tajik complex expeditions, visited the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river. He made drawings and drew attention to the massif, which he called "Shatert" (Tent). The "Shatert" massif has two peaks on the left and three prongs on the right. Nearby, to the south, lies the peak Mayakovsky (photo). The area around peak Mayakovsky has been explored by alpinists, but the upper reaches of the Garms-Chashma river remained uncharted. Tourists from Kiev explored this region, made first ascents of several passes, and climbed peak Garms-Chashma (1B category). The peak is located along the ridge next to the "Shatert" massif. In 1971, the Ukrainian Council of Tourism organized a tourist expedition to the Garms-Chashma river region and invited alpinism instructors V.S. Shumikhin, V.S. Tkachenko, A.I. Vseljubsky, V.A. Bakhtigozin, and others. Concurrently, an alpinist expedition from Kharkov worked in the area. During this period, several first ascents of categories 1, 2, and 3 were made, and a detailed reconnaissance of the wall on the left part of the "Shatert" massif to peak 5497 m was conducted. Results of the reconnaissance:

Ascent Log

1. Technical category
2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Ridge
3. Peak 5214 via the counterfort of the south-eastern wall, rock route
4. Assumed 5A category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 840 m; length: 1065 m; length of 5th category sections: 210 m; average steepness of the route: 57°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 78/8 chocks 33/2 ice none

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class – high-altitude technical.
2. Region – Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range.
3. P. 5986 m (Bitkaya Zap.) via the right chimneys and central bastion of the Southwest wall.
4. Proposed – 6B category of difficulty, second ascent.
5. Height difference – 866 m, route length, including traverses, 959 m, average steepness of the route – 73°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 789 m (5195–5915), including 6 category of difficulty – 514 m (5420–5815, 5850–5900). Steepness of the wall part of the route – 78° (5195–5915).
6. Number of pitons used: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 114 | 23 | 178 | 2 |

International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004

Reports on First Ascents

in the Saroz Lake area, Pamir Mountains on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725–45–28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004

First Ascent Reports

in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin – First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004

First Ascent Reports

in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (495) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

International Mountaineering Club

2003–2004 year

Reports on First Ascents

in the area of Lake Sarez in Pamir on the peaks of Rushan and M Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Ascent Certificate

I. Technical Grade 2. South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range 3. V. Garm-Chashma (4900), via the spur of the southern ridge, combined route 4. Proposed — Category 3B complexity 5. Height difference — 700 m, length — 1350 m, length of sections with category 4 complexity — 160 m, average steepness of the wall part of the route — 55° 6. Pitons driven: rock 34/0, chocks 26/0, ice 1/0 7. Number of climbing hours — 10 8. No overnight stays