International Mountaineering Club

2003–2004 year

Reports on First Ascents

in the area of Lake Sarez in Pamir

on the peaks of Rushan and M Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru↗

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

Yuri Viktorovich Baykovsky — Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan

Reports

I. List of Peaks … 3

II. Overview of the Sarez Lake Area * a. Map of the Republic of Tajikistan….. 4 * b. Description of the Area….. 5 * c. Road to Sarez Lake….. 7 * d. Map of Sarez Lake….. 8

III. Reports on Ascents in the "Birombnd" Area * a. Map and Description of the Area….. 10 1. "Olimp-2004" (5674 m)….. 11 2. "Poytakt" (5601 m)….. 20 3. "International Mountaineering Club" (5337 m)….. 26 4. "Obzorная" (4424 m)….. 35

IV. Reports on Ascents in the "Shadau" Area * a. Map and Description of the Area….. 42 1. "10 лет МЧС" (5250 m)….. 45 2. "USOЙ" (5120 m)….. 53 3. "Спасателей" (5050 m)….. 60 4. "Горных гидов" (5080 m) — 69

Peaks in the Sarez Lake Area

Map of the Republic of Tajikistan

(Route from Dushanbe to Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, to the Sarez Lake area)

Description of the Sarez Lake Mountain Area

Road

You can get to Sarez Lake from Dushanbe:

• By helicopter from Dushanbe airport to the helipad on the Usoi dam;
• By car. Drive to the regional center Rushan. The road to the turnoff to Rogun has asphalt coverage. Further, the asphalt is practically absent, and the coverage is badly damaged. From Rushan, it is 130 km to the village of Barchadiv on a difficult road. You need to cross several rivers. With high water, the road is sometimes flooded and washed away. The journey takes 2–3 days.

From the village of Barchadiv, it is a 20 km walk. It takes about the same time to go up and down — from 6 to 10 hours. At the beginning of the path (1 hour) and at the end (2 hours), there is no water. In the middle part, the trail runs along the Murgab River. The most steep section with a difference of 700 m is a long ascent to the Usoi dam. The ascent consists of three stages.

Area Features

Due to the possibility of a breakthrough of the Usoi dam, the Sarez Lake area is a strategic object and is closed to tourism. To visit it, in addition to a permit to enter the border zone of the GBAO, you need to obtain a special permit. As a rule, sports and tourist groups are not allowed to visit the Usoi dam area.

There are more than three dozen peaks in the area with heights of 4000–5900 m. The area is interesting for mountaineering ascents. You can make ascents via rock, combined, and ice routes of 2–5 categories of difficulty.

A major difficulty is the lack of trails along the coast. It is best to get to various gorges in the area by boat, which is available from the employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

The approaches are characterized by a large ascent.

Birombnd Area

Located on the right bank of Lake Sarez. The ridge stretches along the lake for 35 km and continues north to the village of Barchadiv. The area includes 10–15 peaks. The highest peak is "Radio Amateur" (5857 m), where a radio repeater was installed in 2002 by climbers from Dushanbe (V. Khabibulin, A. Maskaev, I. Karatyschev). No mountaineering ascents were made to other peaks in the area until 2003.

Ascents can be made from the southwest, from the lake, and from the northeast, from the gorge.

There is practically no water in the area in the summer. All streams come to the surface near the lake shore. There is no snow on the southwestern slopes in July–August. And in the northeast, there are glaciers and snow in the upper reaches.

The International Mountaineering Club team made all their ascents from the northeast.

From the МЧС house, take a boat (10 km) around the right-bank landslide slope and enter the gorge. Walk up the gorge along the middle talus for 5 hours. Set up a base camp at an altitude of 4700 m. From here, ascents are made to the peaks Olimp, Poytakt, MAK. When ascending to Olimp, you can set up a storm camp at an altitude of 5000–5100 m up the gorge.

In the area, the rock formations are heavily destroyed.

Shadau Mountain Area

Named after the Shadau River and Lake. There is water everywhere in the area. There is quite strong glaciation on the northern slopes. There are complex routes.

From the МЧС house, take a boat (6 km) across Lake Shadau to the mouth of the river. Walk along the right bank of the river (in the direction of travel) along the trail for 3 hours. Cross the first right tributary (Khalifa Ilga river) and start climbing up to the right along the slope (2 hours).

Through an indistinct watershed, enter the gorge and walk along the Jufrakhts river to the meadows (to the right of the black moraine, clearly visible from Lake Shadau). In the summer, a herd of yaks grazes on the meadow (without a shepherd). Be careful — the yaks can be aggressive. It is convenient to set up a base camp near large stones next to the yak meadow. There is a stream.

The entire approach from the МЧС house to the base camp (4300 m) takes 5–7 hours.

For the ascent to the peaks "10 лет МЧС", 5350 m, 5535 m, you can set up a storm camp in the upper part of the gorge, at an altitude of 4600 m (2.5 hours walk).

From the base camp, the peaks 5000 m, 5050 m, 5350 m, 5535 m, USOЙ are visible.

Information about Sarez Lake

From the History of the Lake Formation

On the night of February 5–6, 1911, a strong earthquake occurred in the central part of Pamir (currently on the territory of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Republic of Tajikistan). As a result of seismic impact, a giant landslide occurred in the Murgab River valley, which was named "Usoi dam" in memory of the village of Usoi, which was buried by it. All residents of the village died. The landslide deposits blocked the Murgab River valley and caused the formation of a large lake.

Sarez Lake is located between the North Alichur and Muzkol ranges, at an altitude of 3239 m. Area — 86.5 km², length — about 75 km, width — up to 3.4 km. Average depth — 190 m, maximum — 550 m. The lake is primarily fed by glaciers. The range of level fluctuations is about 6 m. It freezes in late December — early January, opens in late March — May.

The average annual level of Sarez Lake rises by 0.2 m. From 1967 to 2001, it rose by 4.8 m. The excess of the lowest point of the watershed ridge of the Usoi dam above the lake is 41 m. In a high-water flood, it can decrease to 32–35 m.

The unique lake is a natural pearl, a scientific object, and at the same time, the most serious potential threat to the whole of Central Asia. Scientists predict the inevitability of a lake breakthrough and the occurrence of a catastrophic mudflow along the Pyanj River bed. The areas of Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, and Afghanistan, where more than 5,000,000 people live and all Russian border outposts located on the Tajik-Afghan border, will be destroyed.

Until 1991, geologists and scientists from all over the Soviet Union regularly worked in the lake area. From 1991 to 2003, there were practically no scientific observations on Sarez. Currently, an observation and warning station of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Republic of Tajikistan is working year-round in the Usoi dam area. The МЧС house is located between two lakes: Sarez and Shadau. In 2005, another house will be put into operation, located directly on the dam. A helipad is equipped nearby.

In 2003–2004, the International Mountaineering Club, together with "Centrospas" of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and the Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, organized two scientific and sports expeditions, during which 8 first ascents were made, the lake coast was surveyed, a rafting trip was made along the Murgab and Bartang rivers to the Pyanj River, and the first diver's dive into the lake and underwater video filming were carried out.

No information about mountaineering ascents in the area was found before 2003.

Road from Dushanbe to Sarez Lake

(takes 2–3 days by car + 1 day on foot)

"Centrospas" Base of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Republic of Tajikistan

(formerly the base of the KSP of Tajikistan)

Head: Colonel A.V. Pilkevich

Road along the Bartang River

(from the turnoff from the Pamir Highway to the village of Barchadiv)

Road along the Murgab River

from the village of Barchadiv to Sarez Lake

20 km on foot with pack animals

Map of Sarez Lake

"Birombnd" Area

Map of the "Birombnd" Area

Muzkol Range, Central and Eastern Pamir

International Mountaineering Club

August 13, 2004

Report on the Ascent to the Peak

"Olimp-2004"

height 5674 m

Central Pamir, Muzkol Range

The proposed route difficulty is 3A

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range

   Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region

2. Peak — "Olimp-2004". Height 5674 m

3. Peak coordinates: N 38°17.093′ (measured by GPS)

   E 072°42.198′

4. Route — via Western ridge

5. Proposed — 3A cat. diff., first ascent

6. Route character — combined

7. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m, route length — 1900 m

8. Equipment used on the route: pitons — 30 (rock — 18, ice — 12)

9. Time taken — 13 hours

10. Participants: Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan), Shabon Yaftaev (3rd sports category, Tajikistan)

11. Date of ascent: August 13, 2004

    Departure from base camp — 8:00, August 12

    Summit — 9:30, August 13

    Return to base camp — 12:00, August 13

12. Organization: International Mountaineering Club, "Centrospas" of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan.

General View of the "Olimp-2004" Peak

At the Summit

Route Profile

R2 Section. Snow-Ice Couloir

Photo at the Summit

Bottom left — Moscow Pass and Western ridge

View from the Summit to the West

Plaque at the Summit

Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols to the "Olimp-2004" Peak (5674 m)

Route Description to the "Olimp-2004" Peak

The route starts from the 4700 m camp on the Bizangov Glacier. Move up the glacier to the Moscow Pass 5050 m. 300 m before the saddle, there is a steep snow-ice couloir that bypasses the difficult rock section and allows you to reach the western ridge of the peak. In the couloir, a belay is necessary on a 200 m section. The average steepness of the couloir is 50°, with some sections up to 65°. After passing the couloir, there is a relatively easy rock-ice section that is traversed with simultaneous belay on a 200 m section. At an altitude of 5100 m, it is advisable to set up a storm camp for additional acclimatization and an early start to the summit, as the snow on the northwestern side of the ridge is deep and loose, and it needs to be traversed early in the morning. The ascent should start at dawn, around 05:30, along the snow-rock ridge to the pre-summit gendarme, which is bypassed on the right with a belay along the rock-ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

After bypassing the gendarme, return to the ridge and move to the rocky summit dome along easy rocks up to an altitude of 5600 m. The ascent to the summit is rock-ice up to the mark 5681 m (GPS) and 5674 m according to the topographic map. The ascent takes 4 hours to the 5100 m camp and another 4 hours to the summit. The descent should be made along the northwestern ridge, but slightly descending from the summit towards the Temurkult-Dzhilga river, and then traverse the same slope, but along the snowy slope, bypassing the main gendarme. Further descent is along the ascent route and takes 6 hours to the 5050 m mark.

The entire ascent from the 4700 m camp takes 13 hours.

Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

Dushanbe, Lohuti St., 26, Ind. 734013, Tel. 23-28-18, Fax 21-13-31.

Certificate

Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe, August 25, 2004

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (MAC), which made a first ascent to the peak with a height of 5674 m in the Muzkol Range (Eastern Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 13, 2004.

Team members: Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan), Shabon Yaftaev (3rd sports category, Tajikistan). Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan). The peak is named "Olimp-2004". Location: N 38°17.093′ E 072°42.198′.

Head of the Control and Rescue Service of the Republic of Tajikistan, Head of "Centrospas" of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Colonel

Minister of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Major General M.A. Ziyoev

International Mountaineering Club

August 11, 2004

Report on the Ascent to the Peak

"Poytakt" (Capital)

height 5601 m, Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range. Proposed route difficulty: 2A

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Central Pamir, Rushan Range

   Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region

2. Peak — "Poytakt" (Capital), height 5601 m

   named in honor of the 80th anniversary of the capital of Tajikistan, Dushanbe

3. Peak location: N 38°17.150′ E 072°40.550′

4. Route — via Southern ridge

5. Proposed — 2A cat. diff., first ascent

6. Route character — combined

7. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, route length — 1400 m

8. Equipment used on the route: pitons — 30 (28 rock, 2 ice)

9. Time taken — 12 hours

10. Team members:

    Leader — Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan). Participants:

    • Shabon Yaftaev (3rd sports category, Tajikistan)
    • Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan)
    • Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)

11. Team coach: Yuri Viktorovich Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)

12. Date of ascent: August 11, 2004. Time of summit — 13:00

13. Organization: International Mountaineering Club, "Centrospas" of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan.

"Poytakt" Peak 5601 m

Photo from the Murgab River gorge below the Usoi dam

"Poytakt" Peak 5601 m

Photo from Lake Sarez

Route to "Poytakt" Peak

Photo from the Ridge of "Olimp-2004" Peak from the East

At the Summit

Photo taken towards the upper reaches of Lake Sarez to the South

Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols to "Poytakt" Peak

Route Description to "Poytakt" Peak

From the base camp at 4700 m, ascend along the gorge for 1 hour. Then, to the saddle between Poytakt and MAK peaks, along a snow-ice slope for 2.5 hours. In the upper part, crampons are necessary. In the upper part, the slope becomes more gentle. Bypassing the moraine on the right, turn right and walk along the ridge towards the peak for 300 m across snow-ice fields with rock outcrops (R1).

Climb a steep snow-ice couloir to reach the shoulder of the ridge (R2). Walk along the ridge to the summit for 300 m (R3).

Descend along the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours.

Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

Dushanbe, Lohuti St., 26, Ind. 734013, Tel. 23-28-18, Fax 21-13-31.

Certificate

August 25, 2004, Dushanbe, Republic of Tajikistan

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (MAC), which made a first ascent to the peak with a height of 5601 m in the Muzkol Range (Eastern Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 11, 2004.

Team members: Vladimir Khabibulin (Candidate for Master of Sports, Tajikistan), Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan), Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia), Shabon Yaftaev (3rd sports category, Tajikistan). Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan). The peak is named "Poytakt" (Capital). Location: N 38°16.450′ E 072°40.960′.

Minister of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Major General M.A. Ziyoev

International Mountaineering Club

August 15, 2004

Report on the Ascent to the Peak

International Mountaineering Club

height 5337 m, Central Pamir, Rushan Range. Proposed route difficulty: 4B

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Central Pamir, Rushan Range. Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region

2. Peak — "International Mountaineering Club". Height 5337 m

3. Peak coordinates: N 38°16.450′

   E 072°40.960′

4. Route — via internal angle of Eastern wall

5. Proposed — 4B cat. diff., first ascent

6. Route character — rock

7. Route characteristics: height difference — 630 m, route length — 950 m

8. Equipment used on the route: pitons — 14, chocks — 63

9. Time taken — 14 hours

10. Participants: Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan), Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)

11. Team coach: Yuri Viktorovich Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)

12. Date of ascent: August 15, 2004

    Departure from base camp — 9:00, August 14

    Summit — 12:00, August 15

    Return to base camp — 12:30, August 15

13. Organization: International Mountaineering Club, "Centrospas" of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

General View of the Peak from Irkht Bay

Start of the Route

General View of the "MAK" Peak

General View of the "MAK" Peak from the East

View from the Summit to Irkht Bay

Bottom left — shoulder 5150 m

On the Route. R6 Section

Route Diagram in UIAA Symbols to the 5337 m Peak

Route Description to the 5337 m "International Mountaineering Club" Peak

From the 4770 m camp, move towards the peak along the talus slopes for 300 m. The approach takes 30 minutes. The start of the route is a clearly visible internal angle at the base of the rock massif. Ascend along the internal angle for 50 m (R2). The rocks are destroyed. Use stoppers and excentrics. Good belay on the ledge.

Move to the right and then up along the chimney with a plug at the top (R3). (Attention: the rocks are destroyed). Good belay on the ledge.

Along the internal angle (R4), one rope of very difficult climbing (Key!). Use pitons, hexes, and friends. Then, 20 m along the internal angle (R5) and 30 m along the wall of destroyed rocks (R6). Use stoppers, hexes, and pitons. Belay on the ledge.

50 m along the internal angle (R7) with an overhang (second key section!). Climbing is difficult. Use stoppers, pitons, and excentrics.

100 m up the wall (R8) to the right under the cornice. Under the cornice is a convenient place for an overnight stay.

From the overnight stay, ascend along the internal angle for 30 m, transitioning into a wall for 20 m (R9), to reach a ledge. Icicles hang from the ledge, 2–3 m long. Be careful! Icicles can fall down on the belayer and the climber. Use stoppers and pitons.

50 m along the destroyed rocks, move to the right to a shoulder (R10). From the shoulder, along the ridge to the right towards the summit for 200 m along destroyed ledges (R11). Climbing is not difficult; you can climb simultaneously. (Be careful, icicles can fall from the summit.)

Along the wall to the summit for 100 m. The rocks are destroyed. Use stoppers. The summit is dome-shaped with destroyed rocks and snow.

Descend along the eastern ridge. First, 250 m along the ascent route, then with alternating belay through ledges to a clearly visible shoulder. From the shoulder, move left along the talus slopes for 600 m to the base camp at 4700 m.

The entire ascent takes 14 hours.

Certificate

Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe, August 25, 2004

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (MAC), which made a first ascent to the peak with a height of 5337 m in the Rushan Range (Central Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 15, 2004.

Team members:

• Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan)
• Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)

Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)

The peak is named "International Mountaineering Club" (MAK)

Location: N 38°16.450′ E 072°40.960′

Head of the Control and Rescue Service of the Republic of Tajikistan, Head of "Centrospas" of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Colonel

Minister of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Major General M.A. Ziyoev

International Mountaineering Club

August 25, 2003

Report on the Ascent to the "Obzornaya" Peak

height 4424 m, Central Pamir, Muzkol Range. Proposed route difficulty: 1B

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Central Pamir, Muzkol Range

   Republic of Tajikistan,