International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004

First Ascent Reports

in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs

on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges

International Mountaineering Club

Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (495) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru↗

Club President

Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee

Head Coach

Yuri Viktorovich Baykovsky — Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan

Reports

I. Peak Table — 3 pages

II. Overview of the Sarez Lake Area

• a. Map of the Republic of Tajikistan — 4 pages
• b. Description of the Area — 5 pages
• c. Road to Sarez Lake — 7 pages
• d. Map of Sarez Lake — 8 pages

III. Reports on Ascents to Peaks in the "Birombanda" Area

• a. Map and Description of the Area — 10 pages

1. "Olimp-2004" (5674 m) — 11 pages 14
2. "Poytakt" (5601 m) — 20 pages 15
3. "International Mountaineering Club" (5337 m) — 26 pages 12
4. "Obzornaya" (4424 m) — 35 pages 13

IV. Reports on Ascents to Peaks in the "Shadau" Area

• a. Map and Description of the Area — 42 pages

5. "10 лет МЧС" (5250 m) — 45 pages 11
6. "Usoi" (5120 m) — 53 pages 17
7. "Spasatelei" (5050 m) — 60 pages 16
8. "Gornykh gidov" (5080 m) — 69 pages

Map of the Republic of Tajikistan

(Route from Dushanbe to the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, to the Sarez Lake area)

Description of the Sarez Lake Mountain Area

Road

To get to Sarez Lake from Dushanbe, you can:

• Take a helicopter from Dushanbe airport to the helipad on the Usoi dam;
• Drive. The road to the district center Rushan has asphalt coverage. Further, the asphalt is practically absent, and the coverage is heavily damaged. From Rushan, it's 130 km to the village of Barchadiv — a difficult road. You need to cross several rivers. During high water, the road is sometimes flooded and washed away. The journey takes 2-3 days.

From the village of Barchadiv, it's a 20 km hike. It takes approximately the same amount of time to go up and down — from 6 to 10 hours.

• At the beginning of the path (1 hour) and at the end (2 hours), there is no water.
• In the middle part, the trail runs along the Murgab River.
• The most steep section with a difference of 700 m is a long climb to the Usoi dam.
• The ascent consists of three stages.

Area Features

Due to the possibility of a breakthrough of the Usoi dam, the Sarez Lake area is a strategic object and is closed to tourism. To visit it, in addition to a permit to enter the border zone of the GBAO, you need to obtain a special permit. As a rule, sports and tourist groups are not allowed to visit the Usoi dam area.

There are more than three dozen peaks in the area with heights of 4000-5900 m. The area is interesting for mountaineering ascents. You can climb rock, combined, and ice routes of 2-5 categories of difficulty.

A major challenge is the lack of trails along the coastline. It's best to get to various gorges in the area by boat, which is available to employees of the Ministry of Emergency Situations.

Approaches are characterized by a large elevation gain.

Birombanda Area

Located on the right bank of Sarez Lake. The ridge stretches along the lake for 35 km and continues north to the village of Barchadiv. The area includes 10-15 peaks. The highest peak is "Radio Lyubitelei" (5857 m), where a radio repeater was installed in 2002 by climbers from Dushanbe (V. Khabibulin, A. Maskayev, I. Karatyshev). No other mountaineering ascents were made in the area before 2003.

Ascents can be made from the southwest, from the lake, and from the northeast, from the gorge.

There is practically no water in the area in the summer. All streams emerge near the lake shore.

• On the southwestern slopes, there is no snow in July-August.
• On the northeastern slopes, there are glaciers and snow in the upper reaches.

The International Mountaineering Club team made all their ascents from the northeast.

From the МЧС house, take a boat (10 km) around the right-bank landslide slope and enter the gorge. Walk up the gorge along the middle talus for 5 hours. Establish a base camp at an altitude of 4700 m. From here, ascents are made to the peaks Olimp, Poytakt, and MAK. When climbing Olimp, you can set up a storm camp at an altitude of 5000-5100 m up the gorge.

In the area, the rock formations are heavily destroyed.

Shadau Mountain Area

Named after the Shadau River and Lake. There is water everywhere in the area. There is significant glaciation on the northern slopes. There are complex routes.

From the МЧС house, take a boat (6 km) across Lake Shadau to the mouth of the river. Walk along the right bank of the river (in the direction of travel) along the trail for 3 hours. Cross the first right tributary (Khalifa Ilga river) and begin climbing up-right along the slope (2 hours).

Through a vaguely expressed watershed, enter the gorge and follow the river Juftakhac until you reach the grassy fields (to the right of the black moraine, clearly visible from Lake Shadau). In the summer, a herd of yaks (without a shepherd) grazes on the meadow. Be cautious — yaks can be aggressive.

It's convenient to set up a base camp near the large stones next to the yak meadow. There is a stream.

The entire approach from the МЧС house to the base camp (4300 m) takes 5-7 hours. For ascents to the peaks "10 лет МЧС", 5350, 5535, you can establish a storm camp in the upper part of the gorge, at an altitude of 4600 m (2.5 hours walk).

From the base camp, the peaks 5000, 5050, 5350, 5535, and Usoi are visible.

Information about Sarez Lake

From the History of the Lake's Formation

On the night of February 5-6, 1911, a strong earthquake occurred in the central part of the Pamirs (currently on the territory of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Republic of Tajikistan). As a result of seismic impact, a giant landslide occurred in the Murgab River valley, which was named the "Usoi dam" in memory of the village of Usoi, which was buried by it. All residents of the village died. The dam's deposits blocked the Murgab River valley and caused the formation of a large lake.

Sarez Lake is located between the North Alichur and Muzkol ranges, at an altitude of 3239 m. Area — 86.5 km², length — about 75 km, width — up to 3.4 km. Average depth — 190 m, maximum — 550 m. The lake is primarily fed by glaciers. The range of level fluctuations is about 6 m. It freezes in late December — early January, and opens in late March — May.

The average annual level of Sarez Lake is rising by 0.2 m. From 1967 to 2001, it rose by 4.8 m. The excess of the lowest point of the watershed ridge of the Usoi dam above the lake is 41 m. During a high-water flood, it can decrease to 32-35 m.

The unique lake is a natural pearl, a scientific object, and at the same time, the most serious potential threat to the whole of Central Asia. Scientists predict the inevitability of a lake breakthrough and the emergence of a catastrophic mudflow along the Pyanj River bed. The destruction zone includes territories of:

• Tajikistan,
• Uzbekistan,
• Turkmenistan,
• Afghanistan,

where more than 5,000,000 people live, as well as all Russian border outposts located on the Tajik-Afghan border.

Until 1991, geologists and scientists from all over the Soviet Union regularly worked in the lake area. From 1991 to 2003, no scientific observations were conducted at Sarez. Currently, a monitoring and warning station of the Usoi dam МЧС of the Republic of Tajikistan operates year-round in the area. The МЧС house is located between two lakes: Sarez and Shadau. In 2005, another house will be put into operation, located directly on the dam. A helipad is being constructed nearby.

In 2003-2004, the International Mountaineering Club, together with "Centrospas" of the МЧС and the Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, organized two scientific and sports expeditions, during which:

• 8 first ascents were made;
• The lake coastline was surveyed;
• A rafting trip was made along the Murgab and Bartang rivers to the Pyanj River;
• The first diver's dive into the lake was made;
• Underwater video filming was performed.

No information about mountaineering ascents in the area before 2003 was found. The road from Dushanbe to Sarez Lake:

• 2-3 days by car;
• 1 day on foot.

Base "Centrospas" МЧС RT (former base of KSP Tajikistan).

Head: Colonel A. V. Pilkevich.

The road along the Bartang River (from the turnoff from the Pamir Highway to the village of Barchadiv)

The road along the Murgab River from the village of Barchadiv to Sarez Lake is 20 km on foot with pack animals

Map of Sarez Lake

"Birombanda" Area

Map-scheme of the "Birombanda" area

Muzkol range, Central and Eastern Pamir

International Mountaineering Club

August 13, 2004

Ascent Report to the Peak

"Olimp-2004"

height 5674 m

Central Pamir, Muzkol range

Proposed route difficulty 3A

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Pamir, Muzkol range Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region
2. Peak — "Olimp-2004". Height 5674 m
3. Peak coordinates: N 38°17.093′ (measured by GPS) E 072°42.198′
4. Route — along the Western Ridge
5. Proposed — 3A category, first ascent
6. Route character — combined
7. Route characteristics: height difference — 950 m, route length — 1900 m
8. Equipment used on the route: pitons — 30 (rock — 18, ice — 12)
9. Total climbing time — 13 hours
10. Participants: Vladimir Khabibulin (CMS, Tajikistan), Shabon Yaftaliev (3rd sports category, Tajikistan)
11. Date of ascent: August 13, 2004 Departure from base camp — 8:00, August 12. Summit — 9:30, August 13. Descent to base camp — 12:00, August 13.
12. Organization: International Mountaineering Club "Centrospas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

General view of the peak "Olimp-2004"On the summit

Route profileSection R2. Snow-ice couloir

Photo from the summit. In the lower left corner is the Moscow pass and the Western Ridge

View from the summit to the West

Summit Sign

Route scheme in UIAA symbols to the peak "Olimp-2004" (5674 m)

Route Description

to the peak "Olimp-2004"

The route starts from the 4700 m camp on the Bizangov glacier. Move up the glacier to the Moscow pass 5050 m. 300 m before the saddle, there is a steep snow-ice couloir that bypasses the difficult rock section and allows you to reach the western ridge of the peak.

• In the couloir, periline insurance is necessary on a 200 m section.
• The average steepness of the couloir is 50°, with some areas up to 65°.

After passing the couloir, there is a relatively simple rock-ice section that is traversed with simultaneous insurance on a 200 m section.

At an altitude of 5100 m, it is advisable to set up a storm camp to acclimatize and start early for the summit, as the snow on the northwest side of the ridge is deep and loose, and it needs to be traversed early in the morning.

• The ascent should start at dawn, around 5:30.
• Move along the snow-rock ridge to the pre-summit gendarme.
• The gendarme is bypassed on the right with periline insurance along a rock-ice slope with a steepness of up to 50°.

After bypassing the gendarme, return to the ridge and move to the rocky summit dome along simple rocks to an altitude of 5600 m. The ascent to the summit is rock-ice to the 5681 m mark (GPS) and the 5674 m mark according to the topographic map.

Ascent:

• Takes 4 hours to the 5100 m camp.
• Another 4 hours to the summit.

Descent is advisable along the northwest ridge, but slightly descending from the summit towards the Temurkul-Dzhilga river, and then traversing the same slope, but along the snowy slope, bypassing the main gendarme.

The further descent along the ascent route takes 6 hours to the 5050 m mark.

The entire ascent from the 4700 m camp takes 13 hours.

Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

Dushanbe, Lokhuti-26, index 734013, phone 23-28-18, fax 21-13-31.

Certificate

Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe, August 25, 2004

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (IMC), which made the first ascent to the peak with a height of 5674 m in the Muzkol range (Eastern Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 13, 2004.

Team members: Vladimir Khabibulin (CMS, Tajikistan), Shabon Yaftaliev (Tajikistan). Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan). The peak is named — "Olimp-2004". Location of the peak: N 38°17.093′ E 072°42.198′.

Head of the Control and Rescue Service of the Republic of Tajikistan, Head of "Centrospas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Colonel A. V. Pilkevich.

Minister of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Major General M. A. Ziyoyev.

International Mountaineering Club

August 11, 2004

Ascent Report to the Peak

"Poytakt" (Capital)

height 5601 m, Eastern Pamir, Muzkol range. Proposed route difficulty: 2A

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Pamir, Rushan range Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region
2. Peak — "Poytakt" (Capital), height 5601 m Named in honor of the 80th anniversary of the capital of Tajikistan, Dushanbe.
3. Peak location: N 38°17.150′ E 072°40.550′
4. Route — along the Southern Ridge
5. Proposed — 2A category, first ascent
6. Route character — combined
7. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, route length — 1400 m
8. Equipment used on the route: pitons — 30 (28 rock, 2 ice)
9. Total climbing time — 12 hours
10. Team members: Leader — Vladimir Khabibulin (CMS, Tajikistan) Participants:
    • Shabon Yaftaliev (Tajikistan)
    • Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan)
    • Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)
11. Team coach: Baykovsky Yuri Viktorovich (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)
12. Date of ascent: August 11, 2004. Time of summit — 13:00.
13. Organization: International Mountaineering Club "Centrospas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

View of the peak "Poytakt" 5601 m from the Murgab valley below the Usoi dam

View of the peak "Poytakt" 5601 m from Sarez Lake

Route to the Peak "Poytakt"

View from the ridge of the peak "Olimp-2004" to the East

On the Summit

Photo taken towards the upper reaches of Sarez Lake to the South

Route Scheme in UIAA Symbols

Route Description to the Peak "Poytakt"

From the base camp at 4700 m, ascend the gorge for 1 hour. Then, to the saddle between the peak Poytakt and MAK, along a snow-ice slope for 2.5 hours. In the upper part, crampons are necessary. In the upper part, the slope becomes gentler. Bypassing the moraine on the right, turn right and follow the ridge towards the peak for 300 m along snow-ice fields with rock outcrops (R1).

Along a steep snow-ice couloir, reach the shoulder of the ridge (R2). Along the ridge to the summit for 300 m (R3).

Descent is along the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours.

Ministry of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

Dushanbe, Lokhuti-26, index 734013, phone 23-28-18, fax 21-13-31.

Certificate

Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe, August 25, 2004

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (IMC), which made the first ascent to the peak with a height of 5601 m in the Muzkol range (Eastern Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 11, 2004.

Team members:

• Vladimir Khabibulin (CMS, Tajikistan)
• Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan)
• Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)
• Shabon Yaftaliev (Tajikistan)

Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan).

The peak is named — "Poytakt" (Capital).

Location of the peak: N 38°17.150′ E 072°40.550′.

Minister of Emergency Situations and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan, Major General M. A. Ziyoyev.

International Mountaineering Club

August 15, 2004

Ascent Report to the Peak

"International Mountaineering Club"

height 5337 m, Central Pamir, Rushan range. Proposed route difficulty — 4B

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Central Pamir, Rushan range, Republic of Tajikistan, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region
2. Peak — "International Mountaineering Club". Height 5337 m
3. Peak coordinates: N 38°16.450′ E 072°40.960′
4. Route — along the internal angle of the Eastern wall
5. Proposed — 4B category, first ascent
6. Route character — rock
7. Route characteristics: height difference — 630 m, route length — 950 m
8. Equipment used on the route: pitons — 14, chocks — 63
9. Total climbing time — 14 hours
10. Participants: Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan), Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)
11. Team coach: Baykovsky Yuri Viktorovich (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan)
12. Date of ascent: August 15, 2004 Departure from base camp — 9:00, August 14. Summit — 12:00, August 15. Descent to base camp — 12:30, August 15.
13. Organization: International Mountaineering Club "Centrospas" МЧС and Civil Defense of the Republic of Tajikistan

General view of the peak from the Irkht bay

Start of the route

General View of the Peak "MAK"

General view of the peak "MAK" from the East

View from the Summit to the Irkht Bay

with the shoulder 5150 m in the lower left

On the route. Section R6

Route Scheme in UIAA Symbols

To the Peak 5337 m

Route Description to the Peak 5337 m "International Mountaineering Club"

From the 4770 m camp, move towards the peak along the talus shelves for 300 m. The approach takes 30 minutes. The start of the route is a clearly defined internal angle at the base of the rock massif. Up the internal angle for 50 m (R2). The rocks are destroyed. Use stoppers and excentrics. Good insurance on the shelf.

From the shelf, move right and then up along the chimney with a plug at the top (R3). (Attention: the rocks are destroyed). Good insurance on the shelf.

Along the internal angle (R4), one rope of very difficult climbing (Key!). Use pitons, hexes, and friends. Further, 20 m — internal angle (R5) and 30 m — wall of destroyed rocks (R6). Use stoppers, hexes, and pitons. Insurance on the shelf.

50 m — internal angle (R7) with an overhang (second key section!). Climbing is difficult. Use stoppers, pitons, and excentrics.

100 m up the wall (R8) to the right under the cornice. Under the cornice, there is a convenient place for an overnight stay.

From the overnight stay, up the internal angle for 30 m, transitioning into a wall for 20 m (R9), to reach the shelf. The shelf is adorned with icicles 2-3 m long. Be cautious: icicles can:

• Fall down on the insurer;
• Fall on the person climbing the periline.

Use stoppers and pitons.

50 m along the destroyed rocks, move right to the shoulder (R10). From the shoulder, along the ridge to the right towards the peak for 200 m along the destroyed shelves (R11). Climbing is not difficult; you can move simultaneously. (Be cautious: icicles can fall from the summit).

Along the wall to the summit for 100 m. The rocks are destroyed. Use stoppers. The summit is dome-shaped. Destroyed rocks, snow.

Descent:

• First, 250 m along the ascent route;
• Then, with alternating insurance through ledges to a clearly defined shoulder;
• From the shoulder, left along the talus shelves for 600 m to the base camp at 4700 m.

The entire ascent takes 14 hours.

Certificate

Republic of Tajikistan, Dushanbe, August 25, 2004

Issued to the team of the International Mountaineering Club (IMC), which made the first ascent to the peak with a height of 5337 m in the Rushan range (Eastern Pamir, Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region, Republic of Tajikistan) on August 15, 2004.

Team members:

• Alexander Onishchenko (1st sports category, Tajikistan)
• Igor Loginov (2nd sports category, Russia)

Team coach: Yuri Baykovsky (Honored Coach of the Republic of Tajikistan).

The peak is named — "International Mountaineering Club" (IMC).

Location of the peak: N 38°16.450′ E 072°40.960′.

Head of the Control and Rescue Service of the Republic of Tajikistan, Head of "Centrospas" МЧС and Civil Defense of