Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. URECH, 3400 m, via the Eastern Edge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 500 m, total route length — 790 m, average steepness — 30°
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport 208

I. Ascent class — rock climbing. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Khodzha-Ravat, 3600 m via W ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 2B. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m, average steepness — 37 degrees, route length 1150 m. 6. Number of rock pitons hammered for belay — 7. 7. Number of climbing hours — 5 hours. 8. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

Verkhnyaya Baika and Chaniyagina

Ascent to the summit of Pila (4600 m) 25 c.d. SC

via the northwest ridge The summit of Pila, 4600 m high, is located in a ridge running north of the Lupdon pass. The route along the ridge is almost entirely rocky. There are very small sections of firn. The ridge is sharp, rocky, and consists of a series of pronounced "mandarins." The summit had remained unconquered until recently.

Descent after ascent

The group left the base camp at 12:00, heading towards the Lupdon pass. The approach to the pass takes 3 hours. Before reaching the pass point, we turn left. From there, the ascent begins via a wide, scree-filled couloir. The steepness of the couloir is 30°. The snow is hard and compacted in the lower part, and very loose and fine in the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at the ridge. The ascent via the couloir takes 3 hours. At the pass point on the ridge, we find a cairn. A note from climbers from "Varzob" camp is retrieved. Elevation: 4200 m. We set up a night's stay. At 7:00, we start on the route. Along a gentle snow slope, we reach the beginning of the local ridge leading to the summit in 10 minutes. The start of the route is very monolithic - rocks with convenient handholds. Two ropes along moderately difficult rocks - and we're on the ridge. Belay via outcrops. Just below the ridge, to the left of it, we advance another two ropes. We climb in turns with belay via outcrops. With top rope, we descend 10 m down a large rock (1 piton), and then back up to the sharp ridge. The ascent along the ridge at this point is only possible by crawling (20 m, 2 pitons). Careful belay is necessary. To the left and right - sheer walls. Further along the ridge, several rocks lead to "mandarin" #1. The "mandarin" should be bypassed from the right. Here, there's a long (40 m) inclined ledge, above which rocks overhang. Movement is only possible while crouching, and in some places - crawling. 3 pitons are hammered in at this section.

«Landari» No.2 is bypassed by unsecured climbing. Further along the ridge, there is a steep (60–70°) ascent (2 ropes, 3 pitons). After the ascent, we approach the faceted «handarm» No.3. «Landari» is bypassed from the left along narrow sheer ledges and partially on snow (150 m). The ledges lead into the base of the inner corner (60 m). Climbing is of medium difficulty (2 pitons). There are many loose stones in this area. After the corner, we reach the shoulder before the large gray «handarm» No.4. The ascent to this point took 6 hours. To the right of the «handarm», we ascend a steep oval couloir (20 m) and enter a passage between the rocky walls. Along the right wall (70°), we reach the ridge between «handarms» 4 and 5. 3 pitons are driven into the wall (40 m). From the ridge, we begin moving along a chimney — difficult, using friction, spreading, and jamming of limbs (3 pitons). The chimney leads to smooth slabs on the right side of «handarm» 5. The steepness is 50–55°. The slabs have a horizontal crack along which we pass this section (2 pitons). After the slabs:

• we continue to bypass «Handarm» 5 from the right along rocks of medium difficulty,
• after which we reach the ridge between «Handarms» 5 and 6,
• along a narrow ledge, we traverse «Handarm» 6 from the left to a chimney with an overhang and a ring at the top (0 m). Climbing is difficult, especially at the top (2 pitons). The chimney leads to the top of «Handarm» 6. From «handarm» No.6, we organize a belay down the rope (30 m) for the changeover using the «handarm» No.6 and the summit tower. Movement along the changeover is along narrow ledges with snow. Then, a vertical crevice (12 m) leads to the pre-summit ridge. Further movement to the summit is simultaneous. The path from the shoulder of «handarm» No.4 to the summit took 4.5 hours.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak: Skalnaya Wall (4800 m), route via the Eastern ridge 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — about 1400 m. Average slope — about 30°. Section lengths: 2nd difficulty category ≈ 1100 m, 3rd difficulty category ≈ 800 m, 4th difficulty category ≈ 550 m. 6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 33 (out of which for creating artificial footholds — 0), chocks — 4

Content

• Content
• Ascent Passport (Appendix 1)
• General view photo of the summit
• Map of the ascent area
• Description of the approach to the route
• Table of route section characteristics (Appendix 2)
• Explanation of the route section characteristics table
• Photos of route sections

Photo illustrations for the route Photo 5. On the section R0–R1Photo 6, 7. Work on the section R1–R2 Photo 8. Exit from the SE wall to the eastern ridge. View of the section R3–R4 Photo 9. At the 2nd control pitch. Writing a note

From the pass to the summit is about 2 hours via the trail. The first and second mandarin are bypassed on the right, following the path and rejoining the ridge. Further along the spur with a snowy cornice and then we reach a steep firn slope (2 ropes). Then a straightforward ascent follows over rocks and snow to rocky outcrops on the ice. The ascent up the rocks involves variable protection. Above is an icy ridge crest, which is overcome by cutting 6–8 steps. Having overcome this ridge, we find ourselves on the summit. The cairn is located on the leftmost of the summit towers. Descent is via the ascent route.

From the Polish bivouacs on the ridge, the route goes along the main edge of the Kara-Bel spur across the plateau. Crossing the lateral ridges leading to the Snezhny and Balkon peaks, we reach a saddle on the main ridge (the saddle - good weather). From the saddle, on the right side of the main edge, we ascend a steep snow-ice slope to the summit (on the last 200 m the steepness is up to 50°). From the Polish bivouacs - 3 hours. Descent follows the ascent route.