Working notes from 6A Khvostenko on Zvezdny (July 2020) June 29 10:00 departure 10:35 below the route 11:00 start of work 16:00 above the first ledge by 17 m — 2.5 ropes fixed. 1st rope: Ito, Sky, relief. Installed one new bolt in an old hole. 2nd rope: Ito, Sky, 5 m, climbing to the ledge 6B+/6C. Bolts at the station, but better 5 m higher, just a 60 m rope. 3rd rope: 8 m, climbing in boots. Ito on the flake, wet and slime from under the eave, can be bypassed on the left on the fifi hooks. At the end — climbing on wet rock to the bolts on the eave 5C+. From them traverse right 10 m. Two bolts. Slightly left: one Sky hole, wet; friend under the eave; bolt behind the eave; three Sky holes.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via S wall
4. Claimed as — first ascent
5. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 280 m.
• total length 595 m.
• length of sections with 4th cat. diff. — 75 m., 3rd cat. diff. — 200 m.
• average steepness: entire route — 45°.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan. 6.2
2. Summit — Zvezdny Peak (V) 2190 m via South Ridge
3. Proposed — Category 3A difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type — Rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain approximately 300 m, length approximately 1000 m
6. Equipment used on the route: 19 protection pieces
7. Total climbing hours — 5
8. Overnight stays — none

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny Vostochny 2100 m from Piquantny pass.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Height difference 110 m, route length 450 m, average slope 35°.
6. 18 (0) fixed protection elements used on the route.
7. Number of climbing hours — seven.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group composition:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2190 m via the center of the Eastern wall
4. Proposed category — 4A first ascent

5. Route Characteristics

• Height difference — 280 m
• Total length — 345 m
• Length of sections: 5th cat. diff. – 40 m, 4th cat. diff. – 100 m, 3rd cat. diff. – 175 m, 2nd cat. diff. – 50 m
• Average steepness of the entire route — 60°

Exit from the grotto, section #10-11, taken from overnight stay #2

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: Rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion
4. Proposed category: 6A
5. Route characteristics: Zub Drakona, 2170 m, South-West wall of the main bastion. Proposed category: 6A. Route characteristics:

Ascent Record

1. Climbing area — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Zub Drakona, 2170 m. Direttissima of the main tower, South wall.
3. Claimed 6A category of difficulty, 1st ascent.
4. Climbing class — rock.
5. Height difference — 520 m. Total length 615 m. Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty 415 m, 5th category of difficulty 180 m. Average steepness of the route 80°. Main part 93°.
6. Total of 13 pitons left on the route, including 13 Petzl bolts. Pitons used on the route: 13/9 fixed bolts, 220/180 chocks, 43/43 removable bolts, 44/44 skyhooks, 45/37 rock pitons.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
2. Peak — Zub Drakona via the center of the SW wall of the central tower
3. Proposed — 6A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route character — rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 460 m. Route length — 580 m. Section lengths:

• 6th category of difficulty — 340 m.
• 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Average steepness of the lower part: 70°, upper part — 90°, entire route — 70°

ASCENT PASSPORT­­

1. Ascent class­­ — rock.
2. Ascent area­­ — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zub drakona peak via South wall to the middle tower (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category­­ — 6
5. Route characteristics. a) Height difference­­ — 400 m; b) Length of sections with 6th category of difficulty­­ — 331 m; c) Average steepness of the wall­­ — 27
6. Pitons used. a) rock­­ — 40; b) chocks­­ — 150; c) bolt­­ — 0 (used from previously hammered­­ — 0)

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Ushba Malaia via the Southwest wall, Caucasus, category 5B, carried out by the team of the Sports Committee of the Ukrainian SSR led by Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I. 1981 Profile of M. Ushba

TABLE of main characteristics of the route to v. Ushba M. via the Southwest wall