Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ne hAchu" Route

Sokol. "Ne hAchu" Route (S. Nadtochiy — A. Kuzmenko — A. Lavrinenko, November 17, 2006) 4A The last rope pitch poses a serious danger: insurance is organized only by a hollow sound, bollards are hammered "for passage", and in case of a deep fall, there is a risk of tearing off a huge 15 m × 10 m flake on the station. Sokol. Routes:

• Vspomnit vse
• Bolshaya progulka
• Ne hAchu

Sokol — 27

«White Triangle» 5B

This is the most popular fifth category route on the Southern wall of Sokol. The route is pitoned perfectly, I recommend bringing:

• 18 quickdraws
• two Shtelnov's cams — first and eighth sizes It is considered that the route's grade is 5B, but, in my opinion, this assessment is somewhat overestimated. The approach is the same as for the "Comma". Having reached the ledge under the wall, move along it to the right till the end. On the way, there is an unpleasant passage, insurance is desirable. The start is under a

Sokol – 12 y.o.

Ryжий угол (Red corner) 5A cat. diff. #26

R0–R2: 100 m, simple climbing straight up to the right (start as in "Galochka" mt.). R2–R3: 35 m, 5b+. Dangerous rope due to crumbling rock. Belay is relative. Station on a micro-shelf in the corner on a piton and a new bolt. R3–R4: 35 m, 6a+, A2. Difficult, overhanging rope. Protection on pitons and some own (big cams). In the upper part, loose rocks, be careful. Better to move left to a crack. Station on a ledge on bolts. R4–R5: 50 m, 5c. Hard climbing on quite crumbling terrain. Protection is difficult. Station on a half-lying tree on a ledge. R5–R6: 35 m. Easy traverse rightwards along the ledge towards "Galochka". Station on a tree. Then you can go in two ways:

• left through a "gully", towards "Grebnevaya dvojka" and then along it;
• continue rightwards along the ledge till the junction with "Galochka" route.

Equipment:

Rope 50–60 m, nuts, cams (big sizes mandatory), extenders, 1–3 ladders, 14–16 quickdraws, hammer, pitons.

General impressions:

Difficult 5A, requiring the ability to realistically assess the situation and organize belay properly. The skill level of "Pravyj Romb" (Right Rhombus) may be insufficient for this route. Climbing time for an average team is 5–6 hours

Sokol-37

Brow 5B

Classic Fantikov's fifth category route, passes through an overhang in the right part of the wall. A beautiful and logical route, not very difficult. The start of the route is under the overhang from the shelf to the right of the slab leaning against the wall. Two parallel cracks lead to the overhang, converging about 10 meters above the shelf. Climb via the right one. Well-equipped, recently repaired. R1 — Up the slabs (bolts) 10 m, then traverse right (to the right crack), into a little corner, along it, then along the crack to the belay station (2 bolts). R1 40 m 80° V+. R2 — Up under the overhang (via a flake, protection — friends), through the overhang via bolts. Immediately after the overhang is the belay station. R2 15 m 95° V A1.

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches). The route was climbed on 11–12.10.2013 by Zakolodnii A.V. and Olivson A.Ya. The route is interesting and varied, following the natural terrain. The route passes between the «Two cornices» 5A and «Red corner» 5A routes, through the center of the two cornices. Two bolts were left on the stations along the route. Sokol mountain routes (Crimea)

Technical description.

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches) From the road, orienting on a large red overhang in the lower part of the wall, approach the route. The first station is on a cypress tree. R0–R1 30 m. V. From the tree up to a large tree at the beginning of a large corner. Station on a large tree. R1–R2 50 m. VI, A2. Up the corner to the second horizontal crack 20 m. IV. Then traverse left to a system of small slots and cavities 8 m. V. Further up, orienting on a gully with bushes 22 m. VI, A2. Station in the upper part of the gully on personal anchors.

Sokol. "Pesnya" (Lebedinaya pesnya / Swan Song) route 5B (V+ A2 188 m), 5 pitches. First ascent: A. Kruglenko (Feodosiya) — A. Paksyutkin (Simferopol), 2007. The start of the route is from the large starting ledge as described for routes №31–38 (according to the guidebook) of Sector II. Routes of the Central Sector of Sokol

Technical description of the route:

• R0–R1: (48 m, V+ A1+) From the starting ledge, the first few meters follow the bolts of the "Vos'merka / Eight" route, then move up, bypassing the bulge shaped like an "eight" on the right. Above the bulge, use the corners and cracks to reach a plate and follow it to an inclined, overgrown corner (anchors, pitons, "carrot" left by the authors). Set up a belay station in the corner on your own protection points.
• R1–R2: (45 m, V+ A2) Move up through the plate to the base of an overgrown crack, then up the crack for 18 m. From here, move left "to 11 o'clock" across the plate to a small ledge. There is little relief for protection. Protection:

Triangle Mountain, new route "Trio" 5B

The route was climbed by a team consisting of: Sasha Zakolodnii, Grisha Grigoryev, Denis Kozyrkov from Kharkov. To date, this line is the sixth, the leftmost one on the wall. The route is very diverse and logical. It entirely follows the natural relief, with a lot of climbing. I made a special effort to minimize the number of bolts and rock transitions (there are only four bolts in total, three of which are on stations). The total time taken to complete the route is 21 hours. The route was climbed in May 2011. The route starts 10 meters to the left of the "Renaissance" route, near a small pine tree standing alone. On the wall, a letter "Т" is carved. The line of the "Triangle" route. High-resolution photo R0–R1 50 m, A2, VI, 75–90°. From the small pine tree, go straight up through a series of cracks by climbing; after 15 meters, the cracks converge into one, using artificial aids (slightly to the left of the overhang). Then the crack diverges; continue upwards to the right using artificial aids (old bolts will be visible on the left, but you shouldn't go towards them). Station: bolt + personal anchor. R1–R2 40 m, A2, V+, 75°. From the station, go straight up the crack using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then climb upwards to the left towards the pine trees (a lot of vegetation). Station on the leftmost pine tree + personal anchor. R2–R3 50 m, A2+, VI, 75°–80°. From the station, climb upwards to the left onto the "katushki" (rocky outcrops) using artificial aids for 15 meters. Then continue upwards through the cracks, and afterwards slightly to the left, by climbing. Station on a small inclined ledge, at the base of a not very pronounced angle. Bolt + personal anchor.

Triangle — 7. "Druzhba"

Massif: Triangle (1000 m) Complexity: 6А VI A3 Authors: A. Lav­ri­nen­ko, T. Tsush­ko, A. Kho­men­ko (Odes­sa) Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 13 Length: 535 m Time to complete: 14–16 hours Route description: A long, laborious line in the central part of the wall. Interesting and varied climbing. There are sections of destroyed rocks, which is typical for the entire Triangle. From the bivouac, approach the wall and move left for 70 m. The starting point of the route is marked by the letter "Д" on the wall. R0–R1 40 m. Up a crack to a ledge with a small tree. Two meters to the left of the tree:

• under the eaves, there's a bolt (hard to see);
• under the eaves, a difficult traverse to the right into a washed-out groove;
• up the groove for 10 m to a small ledge, there's a bolt.

Triangle — 8

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko («Оде­ссит»), Odessa Pho­tos by Aleksey Zhilin Gora Treugolnik (Triangle Mountain, 1000 m above sea level) is located above the settlement of Parkovoe, 2 km west of Mar­che­ki. The wall has a western orientation, so it is almost invisible from the lower road. The wall's length in the central part is >400 m, height difference is >300 m. The best way to approach the wall is through the quarry. From the spring up the scree — 15 minutes to the wall.

Treugolnik — 11

Author: Alexander Zakolodny, Ukraine

New route on Treugolnik "Zvezdniy" 6B

The next day we climbed. But no, the championship rules put us in a situation where we had to climb "fast and light". And how can you climb fast when there's snow, rain, frost - so we had to spend the night stylishly, without a sleeping bag and with a bonfire.

To summarize:

The line turned out to be directive to the bastion.

• The complexity of some sections is really A3+ (maybe even A4). Very similar to the first ropes of Krizuk's route on Peak Odessa 4810 m.
• Danger - by my standards - is off the charts.
• Style - couldn't be easier.