Ascent Route Description to the Summit

Babr from the North 1B–6B cat. diff.

The Babr peak (about 4020 m above sea level) is located in the southern spurs of the Hissar ridge, in the Sang-i-Navishta mountain group, in the ridge dividing the basins of the glaciers:

• Sangalt
• Avicenna between the peaks Khar'kov and Piramida. The peak is a rocky massif with a gendarme located on the right in the ridge of the peak (when viewed from the Sangalt glacier, from where the ascent is made). From the overnight stay located at the left edge of the Sangalt glacier (below the Kruglaya peak), we cross the firn plateau of the cirque and exit to a snowy slope, then ascend to the heavily destroyed rocks, and climb to the northern ridge of the peak — below the gendarme. On the right side of the ridge, we approach a vertical cleft and ascend to the highest point of the gendarme. Descent from the gendarme to the saddle is rationally done "sitting on a rope" (5 m). From the saddle to the summit, the ascent proceeds along the ledges on the right side of the ridge. On the ridge, saddle, and ledges along the way to the summit, the rocks are heavily destroyed and there are many loose stones.

40. Bakhubi from the Bakhubi Pass, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 19. (Kuznetsov A., Egorkina I., Ershova N., Maikutova A., Popogrebsky A., Shukurov A. — 1953) The ascent to the summit is made from the Bakhubi Pass, located to the southwest of the summit. The pass can be reached from the north from the Maykhura valley via the Yak Archa gorge and the glacier, as well as from the south from the Siama gorge along grassy and scree slopes. In both cases, the approaches take about 8 hours. From the pass, bypass the ridge on the left along a snowy slope for about 200 m. Exit to the ridge along a rockfall-prone gully. Belaying is necessary. Further movement along the ridge is over heavily destroyed rocks. The rocks are easy or moderately difficult. BAKHUBI GLACIER BAKHUBI PASS Fig. 19. 40 Before the summit, overcome a gendarme. Bypass the second gendarme on the left along a ledge. Below the summit, there is a small snowpatch, below which one needs to traverse along the rocks and ascend to the summit.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Bivachnaya (north) — 3800 m, via the cleft on the Western wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 60–70 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65°
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent passport

1. Ascent class - rock
2. Ascent area - Igizaki, Gissar ridge
3. Peak - Bivachnaya (northern) - 3800 m, via the Western wall through the cave.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5A
5. Route characteristics: Elevation difference - 600 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. - 240 m, average steepness of the wall part - 75–80°
6. Equipment used: rock pitons for belay - 61 pcs., for artificial climbing holds (ACH) - 16 pcs., chocks for belay - 26 pcs., for ACH - 11 pcs., bolt pitons for belay - 2 pcs., for ACH - 3 pcs.
7. Total hours of climbing: approach from "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac - 1 h, ascent to the summit - 18 h, descent from the summit to "Zelyonaya polyana" bivouac - 1 h 30 min.
8. Possible overnight camping sites:

Open Championship of Sverdlovsk Region on Alpinism

Report on the ascent to the peak Bivachnaya 3700 m via "diagonals" of the Western wall, approximately 5B cat. diff., made by the team of Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik"

Team leader and coach Igolkin V.I. 1987 Chelyabinsk Regional Council DSO "Burevestnik" Address: 454080, Chelyabinsk, Lenina ave., 78 Chairman of the Regional Council - Deyneko Sergey Ivanovich, work tel. 39–91–01 (transformed into the sector of student sports of the Regional DLSO of Trade Unions) Team leader and coach Igolkin Viktor Ivanovich

52. The Twins from the South, category III, route 26, fig. 27.

The ascent to the summit is done from the Panorama Peak cirque. The approach from the mouth of the Siama River along the Panorama Peak River takes 5 hours. It is possible to start the ascent from the lake below the Varzobskaja pila Peak. In this case, it is necessary to:

• Cross a grassy spur into the Panorama Peak valley
• Reach the foot of the Twins under the slopes of the Krylja Tadzhikistana Peaks. The ascent to the summit is via grassy slopes and scree with individual rock outcrops. In places, fine scree lies on slabs, requiring special care. Snow is present at the beginning of summer. The traverse from the Main summit to the Northeast summit is done through the gap between them. Descend from the Main summit down the rocks for 20–30 m to a ledge, from which a fixed rope leads to the col. The rope can be left in place and used upon return. Cross the sharp ridge of the col to beneath the Northeast summit. First, follow the scree ledge to the right of the ridge, then traverse the slab and easy rocks of the ridge to reach the summit. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours. Fig. 27

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via route 2A cat. difficulty The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via route 4B cat. difficulty. At the same time, climbers ascend to the peak via the western wall and descend to the east, continuing the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to 2A cat. difficulty and can be recommended for badge holders and athletes. Approaches for the described ascent are made via the same paths as for the traverse of Varzob Saw from W to E via route 3B cat. difficulty, i.e., via the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The exit to the saddle is made in its right part (not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, gutters, etc. On the saddle:

• There are areas for setting up two tents.
• Snow is present almost all year round - on the northern side. Movement along the saddle to the Western peak:

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via the 2A category route The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is typically climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via the 4B category route. In doing so, climbers ascend the peak via the western wall and descend to the east to continue the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to the 2A category and can be recommended for badge holders and ranked climbers. The approach for this ascent is made via the same paths as for the Varzob Saw traverse from W to E: via the 3B category route, i.e., along the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The ascent to the saddle is made on its right side (but not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, grooves, etc. There are areas on the saddle suitable for setting up two tents, and snow is present almost year-round on the northern side. Movement along the saddle towards the Western peak occurs:

• initially along the ledges on the northern side of the ridge,
• then, closer to the Western peak, on the southern side (belaying is mandatory). The ascent to the peak is made via short wall sections (1–1.5 m) alternating with ledges. The route here is easily chosen and passes:

I. Climbing category 2. Climbing area 3. Peak, its height, and route 4. Estimated difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference section lengths average steepness 6. Pitons hammered: for belay rock 199, ice 9, bolt 38 chocks

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Yagnob wall
3. Peak, its height and climbing route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the NW wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1353 m; route length — 1670 m; average steepness — 87°; section lengths: 3rd category of difficulty — 200 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 10 m, 4th category of difficulty — 250 m, 5th category of difficulty — 640 m, 6th category of difficulty — 570 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 201 pcs; chocks — 83 pcs; bolt pitons — 2 pcs.