Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: SAYRAM, route via the right buttress of the North face.
3. Assumed to be 5B cat. sl. First ascent.
4. Nature of the route: rock.
5. Height difference: 913 m. Route length: 1127 m. Length of sections:

• V cat. sl. — 504 m.
• VI cat. sl. — 73 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge. 7.11
2. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the 2nd buttress of the North face.
3. Difficulty category: assumed 5B, 2nd ascent.
4. Route characteristic: rock.
5. Route height difference: 813 m, route length: 1127 m, section lengths: V difficulty category — 504 m, VI difficulty category — 73 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 77°, entire route — 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 4. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Sary-Aigyr (S—M.) 7.11 2A cat. diff. FA Elena Kerher elenakercher@mail.ru Shymkent, RK

Ascent Passport

7.11 Western Tian-Shan, Sayram-Su gorge (base camp 1760) Sary-Aigyr (S—M.) FIRST ASCENT Route FA: from east to southern ridge traverse Proposed: 2A cat. diff. rock Total altitude difference according to altimeter: 900 m Oriented length: 1600 m Steepness: up to 50°

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4100 (p. Bratstva) via the North Ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A cat. diff. (first ascent)
5. Route characteristics: — height difference — 500 m. — length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — none — average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category - rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 3. Peak Solidarnosti 3600 m via the counterfort of the Western ridge 4. Proposed category of difficulty - 4B 5. Route characteristics height difference - 1000 m length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty - 46 m average steepness - 60°–80° 6. Pitons hammered in

ASCENT DOCUMENT 54

1. Ascent type — rock
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — "Sofia", 3100 m, NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m average steepness — 55° length of sections — III-310 m, IV. 120 m

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam Range (7.11), Sayram-Su gorge
2. p. (Sofia) 3100 m via NW wall (Sh. Rafikova, 1989)
3. Proposed 4B cat. dif. Repeat.
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 490 m Length: 515 m Section lengths:

• 2–3 cat. dif.: 120 m
• 4 cat. dif.: 125 m

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock
2. Western Tien Shan, Chatkal Ridge
3. Peak Okhotnichy — 3099 m, via the right counterfort of the Western wall, rock
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Height difference — 550 m, length — 1010 m; length of sections with 4th diff. cat. — 95 m; average steepness of main sections — 50°, of which 4th diff. cat. — 70°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 8 bolt –

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Ridge
3. Peak, its area, and ascent route. Bolshoy Chimgan, 3277 m, via the Western counterfort of the Northern ridge
4. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: R1–50 m, R2–60 m, R3–80 m, R4–60 m, R5–200 m, R6–50 m, R7–2.5 m, R8–40 m, R9–400 m.
5. Proposed difficulty category — 2B category of difficulty
6. Number of pitons used: for belaying, for creating belay stations: rock — 5, ice — 0, bolt — 0.
7. Number of travel hours — 10 hours
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — one-day ascent
9. Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualification:

The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".

Description

Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range

Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent. The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya". From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya". After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.