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Ascent guide to Pik Olympians (3805 m) via the left buttress of the North face, category 3B difficulty, including route description and access information.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge 3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Olympiycev (p. 3805), 3805 m, via the left buttress of the North face. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 300 m average steepness — 40°, length of sections: — II — 200 m — III — 100 m — IV — 40 m

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### Ascent Route to Ushba Malaya via Western Ridge, Category 2B Detailed breakdown of the path and terrain features for climbers tackling this challenging route.

Ascent Record

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ

  1. Ascent category: technically challenging
  2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus
  3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: Malaya Ushba via the western ridge 4320 m
  4. Ascent characteristics:
    • altitude difference: 320 m
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Ascent of Malaya Ushba via the Northeast Ridge, grade 3B, first ascent by Nikolay Andreev's group in 1978.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m

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Ascent record of Malaya Ushba via South Face in 1971, first ascent, technically challenging, 50 climbing hours, 100 pitons.

Passport

Ascent made in the 1971 USSR Championship on

Alpinism

  1. Class of ascent: technically difficult.
  2. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
  3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: Ushba Malaya via: South wall, height 4320 m. (first ascent).
  4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference: 960 m. average steepness: approximately 59°, average steepness of difficult
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Description of the ascent route to Ushba Mala peak in the Central Caucasus with a difficulty category of 5B.

1885

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Peak USHBA Malaya on D-3 wall 4. Presumed difficulty category 5B 5. Elevation gain 800 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade 400 m. Average steepness of complex sections 80° 6. Number of pitons driven for belay 52 7. Number of travel hours 18

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The ascent of a team of mountaineering instructors to South Ushba via the center of the western wall in 1971, technically challenging and highly categorized.

Passport

    1. 1986

Ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974

  1. ASCENT CLASS:
  2. ASCENT REGION:
  3. ASCENT ROUTE: TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS SOUTH USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE WEST FACE (4710 m)

4. Characteristics of the ascent:

  • HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2100 m
  • AVERAGE STEEPNESS 65°–70°
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Ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the Pinnacle Wall, made by the "Dzhailik" team led by captain Khatskevich I.G.

I. Climbing category — technically challenging 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 6. Number of travel hours — 109.5 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

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Description of a new 6B category route ascent via the north wall of Chatyn-tau peak through "the diamond" to the left of Snesarev's route.

2286

V. CHATYN-TAU (4363 m). ROUTES ON THE "DIAMOND":

  • PRIMITIVE ROUTE
  • SNESAREV'S ROUTE
  • CHERNOSLIVIN'S ROUTE
  • MYSHLYAEV'S ROUTE PASSING SECTION II, AS WELL AS SECTIONS 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 16 ON THE "DIAMOND" (170 meters)
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Description of the ascent route to Peak XIII Congress of Komsomol via the South wall, category IIIB, with a detailed analysis of the path and the first ascent.

  1. Climbing class — rock climbing
  2. Climbing area — Sakashilsky
  3. Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
  4. Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
  5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
  6. Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
  7. Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
  8. Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category Participants:
  • I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category
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Description of the route to the top of Cheget-Kara-Bashi via the northwestern ridge, category 3B difficulty, including the characteristics of the ascent and the technical complexity of the route.

  1. Climb characteristic: technically challenging.
  2. Climbing area: Adyl-Su gorge, Central Caucasus.
  3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern ridge, 3667 m.
  4. Climb characteristic: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness from 45° to 60°, length of difficult section 15 m, 10 m, 40 m.
  5. Number of pitons: rock — 10, ice — –, drill — –.
  6. Number of walking hours: 10.
  7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: –.
  8. Team name: "Elbrus" alpine camp.
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
    1. Plemyalkov Pavel Kirillovich — Master of Sports of the USSR.
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