7.16. 8

Peak named after the Kazakh Alpine Club. Description of the first ascent to the "Bezimyannaya" peak made by the sports group of the Republican Club of Alpinists and Tourists on August 4, 1957. I. The "Bezimyannaya" peak is located in the Meridionalny ridge in the Bayankol gorge area, 9-10 km from the Jar-Kulak settlement (abandoned mine), up the gorge. Its height is 4426 m. Glaciation. A glacier flows northwest from the slopes of the peak. Its length is 1.5-2 km. The western and northern slopes are mostly covered with ice and snow. Approaches: The approaches to the peak are made from the Bayankol gorge along a lateral gorge and start near a large waterfall located 8 km from the abandoned mine. From the beginning of the waterfall, the path lies east to a small glacier, which is bypassed from the left (in the direction of travel) along the terminal and lateral moraine. Starting from the middle of the glacier, the route turns north, and the ascent to the peak begins from here. The time taken for the approaches from the river valley to the peak is:

• 2 to 3 hours.

7.16. Description of the Ascent Route to Peak "4505" (named after V. Shipilov) via the North Face

From the base camp on the green glade, after crossing the Sary-Kainou River, we proceed to the left lateral moraine of the Zapadny Bayan-Kol glacier and move along it in a westerly direction. From the point where the medial moraine meets the lateral moraine, we turn northwest and, passing by three buttresses of Peak "4505", we reach the col between Peaks "4505 m" and "4211 m". The peak lying west of Peak "4505" is marked on the map as "4211 meters", but its actual height is much higher and was determined by us using an aneroid as "4710 m". Hereafter, it will be referred to as "4710 m". The journey from the base camp to the col between Peaks "4505" and "4710" takes 8.5 to 9 hours of walking.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR mountaineering championship 1974. Ascent class I - High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan, North Inylchek glacier 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — northwest wall of Peak Przhevalsky, 6400 m. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1835 m, average steepness 70°, length of difficult sections 832 m 5. Pitons used: rock 182 ice 17, bolted 2 6. Number of climbing hours — 90

August 7, 2034

Description of the Traverse Route of the North and South Peaks of "4530" (K. Aleksandrova)

From the base camp on the green meadow, the twin-peaked summit 4530 m is visible in the northwest direction. It is located in the same ridge as the peaks "4302 m" and "4500 m" and is situated between these two mentioned peaks. After crossing the Sary-Kainou river 200 m above the camp, one needs to descend about 2 km downstream to the point where ascent to the saddle between the peak "4530 m" and "4500 m" is possible. The ascent to the saddle is done:

• initially up the grassy slope for 200–250 m to reach a small cirque (a hollow between the spurs) where large rock boulders (fallen from the neighboring slopes) have accumulated and formed a large talus;
• beyond the cirque, a medium talus begins, which turns into a fine talus near the saddle. The journey from the camp to the saddle takes an average of 3 hours of walking. The path from the saddle goes along the snowy slope to a rocky outcrop ending with a small "Gendarme No. 1," which is traversed along the medium rocks for 30 m. Gendarme No. 2 on the ridge is bypassed on the right side along the edge, close to the rocks (see photo No. 4). Beyond the second "Gendarme," the ridge sharply changes its steepness and reaches 45°, extending for 90–100 m. Movement is necessary with insurance through an ice axe.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area - Central Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
3. First ascent route - Pik Trekhlavy (5504), North-Eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1400 m average steepness of the difficult section - 56° average steepness - length of the difficult section U-UI cat. diff. - 900 m route length - 3000 m

7.16.24. Cat. 4A

Description of the ascent route to Peak 4500 m

"Festival'naya" (from the north, via the pass)

Peak 4500 m is located at the northern tip of the Bayankol ridge, and its eastern slopes descend to the left bank of the Sary-Kaynau River. The peak is situated in a hard-to-reach area of the cirque with very difficult approaches. From the base camp on the green meadow, located on the right bank of the Sary-Kaynau River, it is necessary to cross to the left bank of the named river. Having crossed the river, we head downstream. After 5 km of walking downstream and rounding several spurs extending from the peak and the subpeak "4500", we reach the foot of the ridge. At the exit of a small mudflow, we turn left and begin to ascend. Up to the middle of the slope, which has a total length of about 1 km, the course of the named mudflow leads, and then - medium and small scree. On the ridge, the altimeter shows 3800 m above sea level. Leaving a note on the ridge, we begin the technical work of traversing the peak "4500 m". The first obstacle - a 200 m "gendarme" - required about 3 hours of work. The first 50 m of ascent up the "gendarme" wall are very difficult due to the steepness of the rocks (about 75°), the small number of holds, and cracks suitable for driving pitons. Only 4 rock pitons can be driven in this section. Further, the path becomes somewhat easier, but this is only at first glance. Moving slightly to the right (in the direction of travel), we proceed along a narrow crevice, where the use of piton belay is also difficult. The patches of flowstone covering the ledges are treacherous.

Report

On the First Ascent of Ak-Jaman Peak (4490 m)

via the North-Eastern Wall, Category 4A/4B

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Inner Tien Shan, Jamantau Ridge
2. Peak name: Ak-Jaman (4490 m, № 40°54.413′, 74°49.720′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: via the North-Eastern wall
4. Route difficulty category: proposed 4A/4B
5. Route type: ice climb
6. Route elevation gain: 490 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 660 m. Average slope: 50°. 11 ice pitches up to 70°, Al2–Al3.

REPORT

On the First Ascent of Chongtash East Peak (4553 m)

from the north, 2B category of difficulty

1. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
2. Peak name: Chongtash East (4553 m, N 40°54.994′, E 74°5.810′ (WGS 84))
3. Route name: "through the Gates", from the north
4. Category of difficulty: proposed 2B
5. Route nature: snow-ice
6. Route elevation gain: 900 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 1600 m. Average slope: 30°. Six rope lengths of firn/ice up to 50°, AI1–2.

Pas­port of as­cent to Jel Teger­men peak 4570 m.

1. Tian-Shan, Cen­tral part of At-Ba­shi range, Bos­kur­bu tract. Ab­sent in clas­si­fi­ca­tor.
2. Jel Teger­men — 4570 m. Via West­ern couloir and then along South­ern ridge.
3. Pro­posed 3B cat. dif. First as­cent.
4. Com­bined route
5. Height dif­fer­ence — 520 m ac­cord­ing to (GPS). Route length — 800 m. Sec­tions:

• 2B cat. dif.: 600 m, 40–55 de­grees
• 4A cat. dif.: 200 m, 40 de­grees

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |