7.16. Description of the Ascent Route to Peak "4505" (named after V. Shipilov) via the North Face

From the base camp on the green glade, after crossing the Sary-Kainou River, we proceed to the left lateral moraine of the Zapadny Bayan-Kol glacier and move along it in a westerly direction. From the point where the medial moraine meets the lateral moraine, we turn northwest and, passing by three buttresses of Peak "4505", we reach the col between Peaks "4505 m" and "4211 m". The peak lying west of Peak "4505" is marked on the map as "4211 meters", but its actual height is much higher and was determined by us using an aneroid as "4710 m". Hereafter, it will be referred to as "4710 m". The journey from the base camp to the col between Peaks "4505" and "4710" takes 8.5 to 9 hours of walking.

The next day, we leave the camp at 5:00 AM and descend north onto the glacier of Peak "4505 m". The descent from the col is complex and hazardous due to the slope's steepness of about 45-50° and the presence of three bergschrunds. The descent requires careful belaying. The descent to the glacier and the approach to the wall takes no more than an hour. It is necessary to approach the north face of Peak "4505 m" early in the morning, as the ice seracs bordering the wall are prone to collapse, as evidenced by fresh traces of falling ice blocks. The wall is approximately 800 m high, of which 450 m are rock and 350 m are snow and ice. The initial meters of the route involve a snow slope with a 45° incline, transitioning into a snow-ice slope about 80 m long with a 55-50° incline. On this section, it is necessary to cross two bergschrunds using snow bridges. The upper part of the wall is climbed using step-cutting for about one rope length. Reaching the rocky "headland" (see photo № I), composed of heavily glaciated rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads", is quite challenging due to the scarcity of holds and its length of about 5 m with a steepness of up to 70° in the "headland" area. On the next section, approximately 200 m long, the steepness increases to 80-82°, occasionally becoming vertical. This is the most hazardous and complex section of the entire rock wall.

To overcome the rocky "headland", which spans almost 100 meters, climbers require high climbing skills, as only about 5 rock pitons can be placed throughout this section. After the rocky "headland" and a small snow-covered balcony, we reach the base of a 200-meter wall section.

Here, the path initially goes up almost vertical rocks for 30 m (2 pitons). Then, traversing slightly, we reach the base of a 60 m chimney. The chimney's walls are covered in ice, making climbing it require great skill and caution. The chimney is climbed mainly using camming techniques with 12 rock pitons. Near the overhanging rock section, we traverse along a ledge to reach a section of difficult, snow-covered rocks. After 30 m, traversing left, we approach an internal corner 30 m long and, after placing 4 pitons, pass through it.

The significant fall depth, the broken nature of the rocks, and the uncharted path, where every dislodged stone could fly down onto the head of the following climber, create additional danger and complexity.

Completing the 200-meter wall section demands climbers to exert all their moral and physical strength.

After the 200-meter section, the wall transitions into a "ridge" composed of difficult rocks with a 70-75° incline, 120-130 m long. In the upper part of this "ridge", there is a "surprise" for climbers: a 3-meter overhanging rock cornice, which is overcome "acrobaticly". A climber stands on their partner's shoulders, pulls themselves up with their hands, and, transitioning from a hang to a support position, steps onto the cornice. The last person is pulled up on the rope. Further, when overcoming the steep snow slope, almost the same technique is used as when overcoming the cornice, but instead of standing, the climber lies on the slope because moving independently causes "slipping". At 20:15, a group of 4 people reached the summit. Starting at 6:00 AM under the wall, the group ascended to the summit of Peak "4505 m" via the North Face in 14 hours and 15 minutes. Approximately 30 rock pitons were hammered into the wall in total. The ascent via the North Face of Peak "4505 m" was first accomplished by a group of climbers from the Kazakh Republican Alpine Club: Mansurov Babir - leader, participants - Boris Krasilnikov, Anatoly Barzut, and Vladimir Gonyalin. The group considered the route to be of equal difficulty to a Category 4B route. The descent from the summit along the western ridge to the col between Peaks "4505" and "4710 m" takes no more than 45 minutes via a relatively straightforward snowy and occasionally rocky path. The group returned to the base camp by 12:00 the next day. The ascent from the base camp takes almost 3 days. The summit was reached on August 27, 1957.

The description was compiled by B. Mansurov.