ASCENT OF MALAYA NAKHAZHBITA

Geographical Characteristics of the Region

The Malaya Nakhazhbita peak is located in one of the most beautiful corners of the Caucasus, in the Irafsky District of the North Ossetian ASSR. If you travel along the Urukh River valley, after gardens and stanitsas with dusty roads, after treeless, smoothed by time and greenery foothills, after dark Ossetian ancestral towers of the Akhsau, Moska, and Stur-Digora settlements, the peaks of the Suvansky Ridge suddenly emerge. The Suvansky Ridge is located parallel to the Main Caucasian Ridge, but the former is higher and more powerful than the latter. For example, the most beautiful and highest peak of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Laboda, has a height of 4314 m, while Suvan is 4490 m, Glavnaya Nakhazhbita is 4405 m, and so on. Malaya Nakhazhbita (4225 m) is located in the middle of the Suvansky crest, to the west of Glavnaya Nakhazhbita; according to the first ascenders, it is one of the most beautiful peaks of the crest, with a logical and technically interesting route. The group was advised and cleared for the ascent by the authorized master of sports Boris Ryazhsky, a first ascender of this peak, who provided valuable advice on:

• the route;
• equipment. A brief description of the route according to the consultation: the route is combined, with a semi-closed broken glacier at the bottom, a snow-ice couloir leading to the crest. The lower part of the crest is heavily destroyed and rockfall-prone, followed by a wall with a single vertical crack and then a crest of monolithic blocks with small walls (5-3 m) going all the way to the summit. The descent is via route 2A cat. sl., the main difficulty of which lies in the icy ridge (8-10 ropes) from the saddle to the glacier.

St. Petersburg City Alpinism Championship 2013

Climbing Passport:

1. Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Bezengi gorge, section 2.5 ECTM 2013
2. v. Krumkol (4688 m), center of the north wall (A. Kolchin), variant
3. Proposed: 5B category of difficulty (variant)
4. Route type: combined
5. Route height difference — 1600 m Total route length — 2900 m Section lengths:

• V category of difficulty — 505 m

The Summit!

Strong wind. Fog is approaching, visibility is poor, so it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Bivouacs:

• №3
• №4 The first overnight stay here is very bad. I shelter from the wind by burrowing into the snow. In the morning, the weather did not improve. Visibility is almost zero. I dig a good snow cave and arrange a "day of rest". The next day, the weather is the same. But I must descend. Near the bivouac, I fall into a small crevasse. Progress along the ridge requires great effort due to:
• strong wind,
• poor visibility.

70 Б13

GEORGIAN ALPINE CLUB
named after A. DJAPARIDZE ASCENT TO PEAK EVGENY KORZHENEVSKY (7105 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST FACE
REPORT Tbilisi — 1973
Team Leader: D. Dangadze Peak E. Korzhenevsky (7105 m) massif.

TIMING OF THE ROUTE: START: March 24, 1992 END: August 13, 1992 TEAM: PHIL THORNHILL, GREAT BRITAIN — SOLO. A. Start of the route. 2 hours B. Dawn. I quickly traverse the slope on easy terrain to bypass the icefall line. This traverse takes just under 1 hour. C. First technical difficulty:

• Loose, shallow snow on rocks.
• I have to pull my backpack behind me. D. Camp #1.

Peak Kirova (6372 m)

Group Composition:

Surname, First Name, Patronymic	Sport Rank	Year of Birth	Party Membership	Nationality	Sport Experience and Instructor Rank
KONKOV Mikhail Petrovich	МСМК	1937	чл. КПСС	русск.	since 1955 ст. инструктор
GUSEV Viktor Sergeevich	КМС	1940	б/п	русск.	since 1964 мл. инструктор
CHERNOBELSKY Iosif Vladimirovich	КМС	1944	б/п	еврей	since 1961 мл. инструктор
CHERNOBELSKAYA Valentina Alexandrovna	КМС	1943	б/п	русск.	since 1963 мл. инструктор
Nosov Anatoly Pavlovich	КМС	1936	б/п	русск.	since 1956 звания нет
The route to Peak Kirova (6372 m) via the central counterfort of the Western wall, ascended by the group of the Bashkir expedition, consists of characteristic sections that can be classified as follows:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: High-altitude
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations: Peak E. Korzhenevskoi (7105 m) via Southeast Ridge, category 5B complexity
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 2925 m, average steepness — 40°, complex section length — 1105 m
5. Pitons used: rock — 2, ice — 2, bolted —
6. Total climbing hours: 34 hours
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 4 bivouacs, comfortable, on moraines and snow platforms on the ridge, safe.
8. Team name: Team of climbers from the Kazakh Republican Council of the Spartak Sports Society
9. Full name of team leader, participants, and their qualification:

№56. Ukrainian SSR Alpine Championship

High-altitude Technical Class

We dedicate the ascent

to our friends Kovtun V.G. and Bodnik V.N.

Akademiya Nauk Ridge

Peak Blyukhera via the South Ridge — first ascent (orient. 5B cat. diff.) — Team of the Ukrainian Republican Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society

№	Surname	Initials	Rank	Role
1	Tsakanyan	O.S.	CMS	team leader
2	Bychek	A.M.	MS	participant

USSR Climbing Federation

USSR Climbing Championship, 1970

Kirova Peak via the west face (6371 m) Protocol No. 318 dated October 3, 1970. Category 5B, first ascent. DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF "AVANGARD" SPORTS ORGANIZATION Donetsk, 1970

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical;
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
3. Peaks, their height, ascent route — Traverse of p. Kirova (6372 m) — p. Khokhlova (6701 m) — p. Kommunizma (7495 m) with ascent from Walter Glacier via the East Ridge;
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B;
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3400 m, length of sections of 1st difficulty category – 1500 m, 2nd difficulty category – 1900 m, 3rd difficulty category – 6680 m, 4th difficulty category – 2200 m, 5th difficulty category – 120 m, average steepness — 30°;
6. Pitons hammered: for creating ITO — none; for belaying — of which rock — 24, ice — 28, bolt — none;
7. Number of travel hours — 38;
8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 3 nights, lying down;
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification: