Ascent Record

1. Ascent class - technical.
2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alay. Alay ridge.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route - p. Aydarbek 5125 m. Via the northern counterfort of the E. ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 5A category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1100 m. Length of sections IV - 1350 m, V - 765 m, average steepness - 55–60°.
6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock - 25, ice - 12, bolted - 0.
7. Number of climbing hours - 26 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics - 1.

Ascent Passport

Appendix I I. Ascent class — technical II. Ascent area — Southern spurs of Alay mountain range III. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Aydarbek 5127 m via N-E wall, route "SHAGINYAN" by A. DMITRIEV, 78 IV. Proposed difficulty category — 5B V. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 1100 m
• Average steepness — 60°

Ascent Passport

Technical

1. Ascent class: Technical
2. Ascent area (according to KTMGV): Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge, Koksu Valley
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Unnamed "N" 4600 m Eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m average steepness 45° section length: I 220 m, II 300 m, III 160 m, IV 200 m, V 25 m, VI 1 m

Climbing Route Description

to Begich Peak (4473 m) via Western Counterfort of the 10.3 ridge, category 3A (approx.). From the base camp at Kozhdeba meadow, follow the trail along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Su River to the 2nd bridge (2 hours 30 minutes from the camp). Cross the bridge and ascend along the Shakhdara stream to the cirque under Kyz-Korgon Peak (4630 m), where you set up a bivouac (4 hours 30 minutes from the camp). From the bivouac, ascend along the left (in the direction of travel) stream to the glacier between the ridges of Begich and Kyz-Korgon Peaks. Traverse the glacier (in teams), bypassing the western ridge of Begich Peak, and exit to the upper cirque of the glacier. From the upper cirque, approach the reddish counterfort of the Southwest ridge, orienting towards the triangular wall formed on the left by a chimney and on the right by a snow-ice couloir. The journey from the bivouac takes 3 hours. Ascend to the triangular wall's summit, moving left-up along a ledge, then right-up through a cleft (40 m), and then along the ridge (40 m). Use piton belays. On the triangle's summit, there's a control cairn. From the cairn, ascend directly up a wide, steep (40°) scree couloir, then along rocky ridges, exiting under the base of the large reddish triangular wall (120 m). From here, move right, then directly up along the right rocky wall of a narrow snow-ice couloir, exiting onto the counterfort ridge (40 m). Use piton belays and natural features for protection. The journey from the start of the route takes 2 hours. Along the counterfort ridge, navigate through a series of short (3–4 m) rocky walls and inclined ledges, bypassing a large gendarme on the right (in the direction of travel), and exit onto the Southwest ridge of the peak, under the base of a rocky ascent (80 m).

Ascent Report

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Para-Kazyk gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Alaudin (Dostuk) peak — 5214 m; left part of the Eastern wall, first ascent
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, wall section — 510 m, average steepness of the wall section — 45°
6. Driven pitons: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolts. For belay: rock 69, chocks 101.

PASSPORT

ASCENT TO Mt. Zub Begichi (4100 m) via the NE counterfort.

1. Class of ascent — technical.
2. Area of ascent — Southern spurs of the Alayskiy ridge, Kok-Su valley.
3. Peak 4100 m, proposed name Zub Begichi.
4. Proposed category of difficulty 4B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference – 1100 m, length of sections:
     • 5th difficulty category – 120 m
     • 4th difficulty category – 260 m

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Begichi gorge.
3. Peak — 4448 m, via the eastern counterfort.
4. Presumed category of difficulty — 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 744 m, average steepness — 40°, total length of sections — 1180 m, 2nd category difficulty — 180 m, 3rd category difficulty — 620 m, 4th category difficulty — 180 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for rock belay — 21.
7. Total travel time — 9 hours.
8. Group composition: leader — Chernyaev A.I., 1st sports category, members — Engalycheva R.I., CMS, Zemlyanov M.E., 1st sports category, Kudryashov V.S., 1st sports category.
9. Team coach — Kudryashov V.S.

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General View of the Summit

Route via the chimney of the South wall 5B. Route via the right edge of the chimney of the South wall 5B. Group route variation.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical

ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alai mountain range, Kок-су gorge
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: Peak 4630 m, via NW ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 700 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 130 m, average slope angle — 80°
5. Number of pitons: rock 33, ice 1, used slings with carabiners — 22, no drilled pitons
6. Total climbing time — 16.5 hours (including 4 hours of preliminary route preparation)
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — no bivouacs
8. Team name: LGС DSO SPARTAK, Leningrad

Fig. 8.