№ 21. DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO THE "BRIGANTINA" PEAK B. Bloshtein, 1966 3rd ascent via O. Trubnikova's route, 1965 5A category (according to this report) 2nd ascent - V. Osipov, 1965 (August 15-18, 1965) 1st ascent - O. Trubnikova, 1965 (August 4-6, 1965) –1966– The "Brigantina" peak (4800) is located in the main part of the Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, 60 km south of Przhevalsk. Approach via the Kokbor valley:

• The Kokbor River is a right tributary of the Karakol River.

RSFSR Climbing Championship

First Ascent Category 1984

Report

on the ascent of Peak Dzhigit 5170 m via the right part of the North face first ascent team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Sports Committee Team Leader: Antipin S. M. Coach: Sereda V. A. Gordeev V. I. Mozharov N. P.

II category

Technical category I 2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge 3. Peak Jigit via the right part of the North face 4. Proposed — 6 cat., first ascent 5. Height difference from the bergschrund 1070 m, total route length 1125 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. 705 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice |

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak "Dzhigit", via the north face — 5B category
4. Route by A.G. Ryabukhin, climbed in 1965
5. Height difference: 998 m, length — 1177 m. Length of sections with 5 category difficulty — 397 m. Average steepness of sections — 60°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Ascent Log

1. Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too, category "7.10.(41)" according to the classification table
2. Peak name: Jigit (5170 m), route name: via the north face (Ryabukhin, 65)
3. Proposed category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1170 m (by altimeter); including wall section: 970 m. Route length: 1292 m. Length of sections: category V — 249 m, category VI — 185 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 72°, entire route — 68°.
6. Pitons left on the route:

Climbing class — technical. Area of climb: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too. Climbing route with peak height — traversing the center of the north face of Pik Dzigit (5170 m). Climb characteristics: height difference 1370 m (without seracs), average steepness 78°, length of complex section 1270 m. Piton usage: standing, chock stones 163, ice screws 35, bolted 3. Total hours of climbing — 35. Number of nights and characteristics — 2 nights on the wall in hammocks, in "Pamirka" tents. Team name: team of Omsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Surname, first name, patronymic of the team leader, participants and their qualification: Kudashkin Yuri Valentinovich — Master of Sports, captain

ASCENT REPORT

1. Region, valley, classification table section number (2001): Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, 7.10.44a
2. Peak name, route name: Dzhigit, via the center of the North face
3. Climbing category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1220 m (by altimeter) Route length: 1355 m. Length of sections: V category: 820 m, VI category: 370 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route: 78°

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing area — Central Tien Shan (Karakol) 3. Climbing route — p. Dzhigit 5170 via the triangle of the northern wall (Sharashanidze). 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route description: elevation gain — 110 m (to the ridge) average steepness — 68° average steepness of the complex section — 85° length of the complex section (length of the section with 5–6 cat. diff.) — 900 m route length — 1200 m (to the ridge)

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge, Kok-bor gorge
3. Peak Jigit (V), 5170 m, via NE ridge (Furman, 73)
4. Category of difficulty — 5B
5. Height difference — 1370 m Length — 1840 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 540 m Average steepness of main sections 63° (4100–4950) Including 6 category of difficulty (40 m) — 82° (4350–4360; 4470–4480; 4800–4820)
6. Pitons hammered in:

walls up to 50 m. Piton insurance. After the wall, when exiting to the ridge, there is a place for the second overnight stay and the 2nd control tour. Further, bypassing a small gendarme on its right side. Then along a snowy-ice section to a rocky wall (3rd tour), which is overcome head-on, with traversing to the left. Then along a slope with a steepness of up to 60–65°, covered with flow ice, exit to a gentle snowy site and from it move to a rocky wall, which is traversed to the left. After the wall, approach a small steep couloir covered with flow ice. Movement along the couloir:

• starts on the right upwards,
• then deviates to the left side. After exiting the couloir - descent into a twenty-meter crevice, behind it exit to a steep ice section. After this section - ascent upwards along a steep icy scree. Behind the scree - approach to a rocky monolithic wall. Start climbing it with a traverse to the left. Exit to a narrow chute, along which climb 40 m. Piton insurance. In the upper part, when exiting, apply a "live" ladder. Caution: rocks are heavily destroyed.