Activity Feed
Route Description: кф. С стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascent of the 5,432 m peak in the Central Pamir via the northwest wall buttress, category 5B difficulty route.
PASSPORT
- High-altitude technical class
- Central Pamir, Shahdara Range.
- Peak 5432 via the counterfort of the northwest wall.
- Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Elevation gain: 1210 m, route length: 1510 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 325 m. Average steepness of the route: 54°.
- Pitons driven: rock 96 (8), chocks 73 (6), ice screws 4
- Team's total climbing hours: 26.5, and days – 3.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
SSummitMateFirst ascent of p. 5986 m (Bitkaya Zap.) via the Western wall, 6B cat. diff., Pamir, M Muzkol range.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent category — first ascent. 2. Region — Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range. 3. Height 5986 m (Bitkaya Western) via the mirrors of the Western wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 906 m, route length (including traverses and detours) — 1025 m. Average steepness of the route — 79°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 925 m, including 6 category of difficulty — 765 m (35 m, 5235–5270 m), (730 m, 5285–5950 m). Steepness of the main part of the route — 86° (5235–5950 m). 6. Pitons driven:
| rock | bolt | chocks | ice | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| total | 118 | 13 | 145 | 7 |
Route Description: правым каминам и баст. ЮВ стены
SSummitMateThe second ascent of Bitkaya Western (5986 m) wall in Pamir via 6B grade route.
ASCENT PASSPORT
- Ascent class – high-altitude technical.
- Region – Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range.
- P. 5986 m (Bitkaya Zap.) via the right chimneys and central bastion of the Southwest wall.
- Proposed – 6B category of difficulty, second ascent.
- Height difference – 866 m, route length, including traverses, 959 m, average steepness of the route – 73°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 789 m (5195–5915), including 6 category of difficulty – 514 m (5420–5815, 5850–5900). Steepness of the wall part of the route – 78° (5195–5915).
- Number of pitons used: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 114 | 23 | 178 | 2 |
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateReport on first ascents in the Sarez Lake area in Pamir in 2003-2004, featuring route descriptions and characteristics of the peaks.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
Reports on First Ascents
in the Saroz Lake area, Pamir Mountains
on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725–45–28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: внутрен. углу В стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents made by the International Mountaineering Club in 2003–2004 in the Lake Sarez area in Pamir, to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003–2004
Reports on First Ascentions
in the area of Lake Sarez in Pamir
to the peaks of Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: З гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents of the International Mountaineering Club in 2003-2004 in the Lake Sarez area in the Pamirs to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
First Ascent Reports
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin – First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateReport on the 2003–2004 climbs by the International Climbing Club in the Lake Sarez area, Pamir.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
First Ascent Reports
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (495) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: С кф.
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents by the International Mountaineering Club in the Lake Sarez area of the Pamir Mountains in 2003-2004 to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club
2003–2004 year
Reports on First Ascents
in the area of Lake Sarez in Pamir
on the peaks of Rushan and M Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents by the International Mountaineering Club in the Lake Sarez area in the Pamir Mountains in 2003-2004 to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
Reports on First Ascents
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
on the peaks of the Rushan and M Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin - First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. 3 гребня
SSummitMateA description of the ascent route to the summit Imakouk (4533 m) with a detailed breakdown of the stages and categories of complexity.
5 Imakouk
4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19
- R17
- R18 R16
- R14–R15
- R12–R8