AND EASTERN VIA NORTH-EAST WALL, 4A cat. diff. II+ III IV IV+ III+ R6 EASTERN

4A category No. 498 as of October 28, 1980

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Caucasus, Tsey Gorge.
3. Peak Vostochnaya Ronketti via the North wall edge.
4. Proposed category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, route length 5–6 km, 120 m of traversing, average wall steepness — 70°, upper part of the route — 10°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 52, ice — 4.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus. Saudor ridge. Khuppara valley. Section number in Classification 2.7.
2. Peak 3939 m (Special Operations Forces) via North Ridge. Peak coordinates: 42°50′10.96″ N; 43°45′5.78″ E.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 200 m. Total route length: about 300 m. Length of sections with 2–3 complexity category: 50 m. Steepness of key sections: up to 60°. Average route steepness: 35°.
6. No pitons left on the route.
7. Time taken: 6 hours; days: 1.
8. Leader: Egorin S. V. — Master of Sports

109. Songuty via the East Face, cat. 4B (Durnov, 1950)

From the Volga River overnight bivouac area, head towards the central couloir that leads to routes 5A and 5Б. (“Attention!” The couloir is not visible from the overnight bivouac area, and for visual reconnaissance, one needs to move to the left part of the upper plateau of Uilpatinsky bottom), move along the right part of the couloir to the rock island, from which turn left onto a ledge leading to a counterfort. 10 m up the несложным ledges of the counterfort to a snowy ridge 10–15 m long. From it, turn left along the ledges and walls under the black streaks forming a zigzag, clearly visible from below, to the next counterfort of the central ridge. Move up the rocks of the counterfort to a snowy saddle, from which a snowy couloir goes left and down. After the saddle, a short wall leads to a large ledge crossing the East Face of Songuty. Along the ledge 150–200 m to the right to a counterfort leading to the 10th tower. Move along the rocks on the left side of the counterfort; in the upper part of the rocks, a 20-meter internal corner leads to a snowy slope (20–30 m), approaching the 10th tower. One can avoid going to the tower and instead move right along a grassy section to the saddle between the 10th tower and the summit. On the saddle, there is a platform for a tent. From the saddle to the summit, it's 80–100 m along the ridge of cat. II–III complexity, with overcoming the “pog” — a smooth 5-meter rock ascent and ridge. On the “nose” of the “pog,” a piton is hammered for passage and belay.

ASCENT VIA EASTERN COUNTERFORTS

SOUTH TOWER

Route difficulty category: 4B/TR. R14

• UTYUG R13 40 m 3
• R12 10 m 4
• R11 15 m 3
• R10 30 m 3
• R9 35 m 3 TRAVERS 200 m

Report on the Ascent to the Summit of "Pik Ostry" (4050 m) via the North Face

Route Category 5B

Region: Pamir, Western Murghab, Severny Tanymas ridge. Peak: "Pik Ostry" (4050 m). Route: via the north face, category 5B (first ascent). Leader: Ivanov A.A. (CMS, 1st sports category). Participants: Petrov S.V. (1st sports category), Sidorov I.N. (CMS). Departure: August 15, 2023, 9:00. Return: August 16, 2023, 17:30. Total Time: 32 h 30 min.

112. Songuti via the right buttress of the East face

5A cat. diff. From the "Volginskaya overnight stay" in the direction of the buttress, which descends lowest onto the plateau from the Songuti massif. The ascent to the Songuti wall is made along the ridge of the buttress, bypassing individual sections on the left. Rocks of medium difficulty. Along the rocks (300 m) to a wide snow-ice shelf at the base of the wall. Along the shelf left-down into the couloir. Up the couloir (50–60 m) to a small indentation on the right, at the beginning of the wall. From the indentation, ascend straight up the vertical wall (rocks are smooth, few ledges, rockfall hazard on the left!). Landmark: to the left of the wall, a narrow snow-ice couloir goes straight up to the shoulder of the buttress, turning into rocks in the upper part. Movement near the couloir is dangerous (rockfall, avalanches!). The path goes through the middle part of the wall along difficult rocks, requiring careful piton belay (150 m) to a small glaciated chimney. Along the chimney (20–25 m) to the ridge of the buttress. From the "Volginskaya overnight stay" to the ridge — 12–15 hours. Convenient sites. Control cairn. Overnight stay. From the overnight stay:

• left — up along the ridge (rocks of medium difficulty, protection via ledges) to a characteristic round stone (“balda”) like a "ram's forehead";
• bypassing the stone on the left onto the snow slope, leading under the summit tower of Songuti;

SON-GUTI UP THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5A R1: 300 m, diff. cat. 2 R2: 60 m, diff. cat. 1 R3: 500 m, diff. cat. 2+ R4: 25 m, diff. cat. 2 R5: 80 m, diff. cat. 4 R6: 200 m, diff. cat. 5 R7: 100 m, diff. cat. 5

II. ASCENT PASS

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — 2.7
3. PEAK — MALAYA SONGUTI, 3800 m, VIA NORTH-WEST COUNTERFORT OF NORTH WALL
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 4A
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN 500 m, AVERAGE STEEPNESS 70°, LENGTH OF SECTION II — 40 m, III — 490 m, IV — 155 m, V — 45 m
6. PITS DRIVEN: ROCK — 16, BOLTS — 0, ICE — 1
7. TOTAL CLIMBING TIME — 8 hours
8. NIGHTS SPENT ON ROUTE — NONE
9. NAME AND SPORTS QUALIFICATION OF TEAM LEADER AND PARTICIPANTS

Report

On the first ascent to v. Khimik (3935 m) via the inner corner of the left part of the North-Eastern wall of the Northern ridge in the period from July 16 to 18, 2009 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Nikolaev A.V. – leader
• Kabaev R.G. – participant
• Starykh A.N. – participant AUSB "Ullutau" 2009

Addresses

AUSB "Ullutau" 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 LEADER