Route №16 «Pavlova»

5A VI A1 275 m (6 pitches). Average passage time — 4–6 hours. The main part of the route goes through the center of the monolithic wall. On the way, climbers will encounter many old rock pitons and anchors, which do not inspire confidence. The start coincides with routes №13–15. In addition, movement can begin along the first pitch of route №17. R0–R1: 30 m. Along the ledge, go left to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Belay station on the tree. Transition:

• 10 m — I

Author: Alexey Shelkhakov, Simferopol Scheduled cleaning of the "Samurai" route 6A, 6B, A3 On January 13, the team of Popov — Shelkhakov carried out a scheduled cleaning of their "Samurai" route (6B — A3) on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing the pitons and poorly fixed temporary bolts left by other climbers. We also identified the points where our route intersects with the climbing route "Atlant-M" 8b, 250 m, which was completed in early autumn 2004 by the team led by A. Vedenmeer. Since we were unable to find a diagram of this route online, we had to determine the situation on site. The previously published photographs of Atlant-M did not indicate the neighboring routes, and accordingly, did not specify the points of intersection with the existing mountaineering routes on the massif. The inspection showed that Atlant-M intersects Samurai at an acute angle between R3–R4, which significantly reduces its difficulty. In its upper part, this route intersects Samurai again near the ledges, which is generally insignificant. On the final section, before reaching the plateau, it runs very close to it. In light of these circumstances, we decided to remove the bolts of the Atlant-M route that are located within the corridor of the Samurai route, but only those that reduce its difficulty — specifically, the section between R3–R4. We removed two bolts:

• One of them was driven 40 cm away from ours and can be replaced by it.
• Further, there is a crack suitable for pitons, where one can be fully and reliably secured, thus replacing the second removed bolt. This is the minimum of what was possible; Atlant-M remains passable. The diagrams of the routes provided by us may contain inaccuracies, but it's still better than nothing.

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Interpretation — "Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

Tourist Encyclopedia

"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)

At the beginning of the route, a drill has beaten out on the rock:

• 2001
• an arrow pointing up and slightly to the right. R0–R1: Three meters of climbing T1 — a large V-shaped hook in a live flake to the right and up. Two to three meters of a small ledge. There's a crack in it.

2. Time of ascent. Krasnodar cranes to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Agepsta Main, 3261 m, along the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45°, length of sections: I — 80 m; II — 520 m; III — 340 m; IV — 55 m; V — none; VI — none.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for descent, etc. rock 21, ice, bolt
7. Number of walking hours — 9 hours.

1012

ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Awadkhara region. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Mt. Kardyvach Main, 3150 m, via the center of the South face. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B (winter). 5. Route characteristics:

Fig. 19

1. Ascent to the summit of Belalakaya (3851 m) via the southern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 19)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the streamlet descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Across the streamlet onto the snowfield and 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrudzhinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!), straight up the steep section to the trail and along it to the Medvezh'ya (Bear's) clearing. From the Medvezh'ya clearing first across alpine meadows (trail), further across snow and 300–350 m east of Belalakaya slopes — exit to the Sofrudzhinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain: 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams) up — right across the glacier and left of the rocky outcrop (beware rockfalls from Belalakaya slopes!) exit to the Belalakay pass. From the pass across easy rocks of the ridge up and further across two gendarmes (piton belay!) to the third one. Ascent along the ridge of the third gendarme to the steep part, then detour left along the ledge to a narrow couloir, up the couloir to a notch and through it around the gendarme exit to the ridge (belay!). From the ridge right — down 5–7 m, exit to quartz rocks and across them ascent to the ridge. Along the ridge up to the scree and across it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit 6–7 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 4–5 hours. Ascent variation:

• Bypass the rocky outcrop
• Ascent right across the snowy slope to the couloir
• Ascent up the couloir 70–80 m

46. Be­лая Ne­zna­kom­ka via East­ern ridge (the route is com­bined, V. Saba­niz­dze, cat­egory III, fig. 5, 8). From the pla­teau (point 37) along a steep ice-and-snow slope, with out­crops of bro­ken rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty, 150–200 m as­cent (pitons) to the Lower Shoul­der of the East­ern ridge. On the right there are ice falls. Fur­ther 200–250 m along the sim­ple ice-and-snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the Snow Sen­tinel. From it a short des­cent to a sad­dle. Fur­ther along a gen­tle, then along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow II as­cent and along frozen 20–40-me­ter rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty (cor­nices, pitons) to the East­ern sen­tinel. From the sen­tinel along the snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the sad­dle and along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow (pitons) III as­cent, then along sim­ple

47

Ascent Record 3A (№)

1. Ascent category — Technical
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks p. Nuam-Kuam (4182 m) via S.W. edge
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, average steepness, complex section length 20 m; 25 m;
5. Pitons hammered: rock – 18
6. Number of travel hours – 17
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics – 1 lying overnight stay

ASCENT CERTIFICATE.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range, Inguri gorge.
3. Nuam-Kuam, 4153, via S.W. spur.
4. Presumed category difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m sections of 5th difficulty grade — 100 m average steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven: