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Route Description: правым каминам и баст. ЮВ стены
SSummitMateThe second ascent of Bitkaya Western (5986 m) wall in Pamir via 6B grade route.
ASCENT PASSPORT
- Ascent class – high-altitude technical.
- Region – Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Range.
- P. 5986 m (Bitkaya Zap.) via the right chimneys and central bastion of the Southwest wall.
- Proposed – 6B category of difficulty, second ascent.
- Height difference – 866 m, route length, including traverses, 959 m, average steepness of the route – 73°. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty – 789 m (5195–5915), including 6 category of difficulty – 514 m (5420–5815, 5850–5900). Steepness of the wall part of the route – 78° (5195–5915).
- Number of pitons used: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: | | 114 | 23 | 178 | 2 |
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateReport on first ascents in the Sarez Lake area in Pamir in 2003-2004, featuring route descriptions and characteristics of the peaks.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
Reports on First Ascents
in the Saroz Lake area, Pamir Mountains
on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725–45–28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: внутрен. углу В стены
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents made by the International Mountaineering Club in 2003–2004 in the Lake Sarez area in Pamir, to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003–2004
Reports on First Ascentions
in the area of Lake Sarez in Pamir
to the peaks of Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents made by the International Mountaineering Club in 2003–2004 in the Lake Sarez area in Pamir, to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003–2004
First Ascent Reports
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: З гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents of the International Mountaineering Club in 2003-2004 in the Lake Sarez area in the Pamirs to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
First Ascent Reports
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/Fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin – First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: Ю гребню
SSummitMateReport on the 2003–2004 climbs by the International Climbing Club in the Lake Sarez area, Pamir.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
First Ascent Reports
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
on the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (495) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: С кф.
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents by the International Mountaineering Club in the Lake Sarez area of the Pamir Mountains in 2003-2004 to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club
2003–2004 year
Reports on First Ascents
in the area of Lake Sarez in Pamir
on the peaks of Rushan and M Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin — First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateReport on the first ascents by the International Mountaineering Club in the Lake Sarez area in the Pamir Mountains in 2003-2004 to the peaks of the Rushan and Muzkol ranges.
International Mountaineering Club 2003-2004
Reports on First Ascents
in the area of Lake Sarez in the Pamirs
on the peaks of the Rushan and M Muzkol ranges
International Mountaineering Club
Address: Moscow, Luzhnetskaya Embankment, 8, Russian Olympic Committee, office 330 Phone/fax (095) 725-45-28, e-mail: mak@roc.ru, http://www.clubalp.ru
Club President
Valery Vladimirovich Kuzin - First Vice-President of the Russian Olympic Committee
Head Coach
Route Description: кф. СЗ стены
SSummitMateAscent to Chotagai peak (6133 m) in the Muzkol ridge in Pamir via the NW buttress of the wall, grade 5B, first ascent in 1986.
10
Ascent Passport
- Category of first ascents.
- Region: Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Ridge.
- Peak CHOTAGAY (6133 m) via the S-3 counterfort of the wall, rock route.
- Proposed category of complexity — 5B, first ascent.
- Height difference — 1300 m, length — 1680 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route — 62° (5050–6000 m). Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 710 m, ~45–50°.
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice |
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
SSummitMateAscent of the MGS DSO "*Spartak*" team to the peak *Russia* via the South-Eastern edge in 1972, the first ascent of a route of the 5A category of complexity.
Ascent
to the peak Russia via the Southeast ridge (first ascent) by the team of Moscow City Council of the DSO “Spartak”
Central Pamir, 1972
Map of the area
From August 1 to 10, 1972, the Central Council of the Spartak society conducted an expedition of climbers in the area of Peak Communism. Due to a delay in the helicopter, the expedition found itself in a very difficult situation, as the valleys of the Muksu and Sauk-sai rivers with numerous tributaries presented a serious obstacle even for a caravan, let alone the transportation of goods by people. The caravan did not have the necessary number of horses, and time was clearly insufficient. Transporting five hundred kilograms of food and equipment by horse to the confluence of the Bivachny and Fedchenko glaciers for an expedition of over fifty people did not change the situation much.
The base camp on the Bivachny glacier (3900 m) was only established on July 24, and the route planned for the USSR championship had to be changed. A new route, never before attempted, was chosen - the Southeast ridge of Peak Russia (6852 m).
Brief characteristics of the area
The Central Pamir is bounded to the north by the Muksu River and to the south by the Bartang River. To the east, the area is bounded by the Zulumart range, and to the west by the western spurs of the Petra Pervogo and Darvaz ranges, as well as the Pyanj River near Khorog. The relief of the Central Pamir is heavily dissected. It is home to: