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Ascent to the summit of Kara-Bashe via the Eastern edge, difficulty category 3A, route description, recommendations for climbers.

The summit of Kara-Baschi — 3600 m

  1. Ascent via the eastern edge — category III complexity (Description of the route as you move to the summit) From the "Uzungkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the right moraine of the Mordy glacier. Along it, and then along the grassy slopes (trail) to a large green terrace — a bivouac site — "Mordy overnight stay". From the camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the right to the talus couloir and up it to the upper rock outcrops. Then (in bundles!) along the steep snowslope (belay!) to the left and up to the talus plateau. (At the beginning of summer — snowy). From the plateau, traverse a steep snowslope (belay!) to the slopes and further to the foot of the eastern edge of the summit. Bypassing the edge on the left and along the ledge to the right and up — exit to the edge ridge and along it 300 m to a ledge turning into an overhanging wall 5 m high (belay, hook!). Along the wall, exit to an inclined ledge ending in an overhanging wall 8 m high. Along the wall straight up to the ridge (belay!) and along it 40 m to the wall. Along the wall 17 m to the right and up along the slabs (hooks!) and further along the edge to the ridge. From the ridge, descend into a dip — 20 m — rappel and then ascend 15 m to a site in front of a negative 4-meter wall — and through it exit to the ridge (method of overcoming — "live" ladder — belay!). Along the ridge 40 m to a lowering in the ridge, then ascend along a steep snowslope (belay!) and along the rocks covered in ice — exit to the summit. Descent:
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A description of the 4B category complexity rock climbing route to the summit of Kirpich via the western wall along the gutters, pioneered by G. Sedov in 1969.

M29. Brick via the Western Wall along the gullies

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by G. Sedov's team, 1969) The ascent to the plateau of the Myrdy Glacier is described in route M16. Move along the glacier to beneath the snowy slopes at the center of the western wall. The right-hand end of the wall "diamond" with black streaks on completely smooth walls, topped with an oblique series of cornices, is the landmark for the route's entrance. To the right of the cornices on the wall is a huge gully (do not enter — loose rocks!). In the next, narrower gully, on its right side, stands a separate rock resembling an enormous bottle with a neck tilted to the left — this is the landmark for the route's entrance. Below, to the right of the "bottle," are two rock formations forming the bases of counterforts-ribs ("gates"). Between them is a narrow snowy "tie." The left counterfort is the lower part of the large wall with black streaks, and the right one is the wall of the gully through which the lower part of the route passes. Under the right part of the gully's wall is a large rantkluft that narrows at the narrowest part of the "gates." Ascend from the rantkluft up the steep snowy slope to the start of the rocks. On the right side of the grey rocks (this is the lower part of the gully), reach the R1 ledge. From here, ascend via a cleft to a small ledge beneath a short rib — the edge of the R3 gully (monolithic climbing with small holds). Landmarks for further movement are:

  • to the right above — an enormous, sharply protruding vertical rib-corner;
  • to the left — the edge of the large gully.
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Ascent to the summit of Kirpich via the north wall, technical difficulty category, climbed by the team of the Leningrad Regional Council of the ZENIT sports society in 1974.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — technical.
  2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass.
  3. Ascent route — Kirpich Peak (3300 m) via the North face.
  4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1050 (face — 700), average steepness — 47° (face — 67°), length of complex section — 160 m + 120 m.
  5. Pitons hammered: rock — 226, ice — none, bolt pitons — none.
  6. Total climbing hours — 39.
  7. Number of bivouacs — 3 (2 on the face): on ledges, in tents, snow present.
  8. Team name — Team of Leningrad Regional Council of DSO "Zenit".
  9. Team members: Ivan Yakovlevich Shestipalov — Master of Sports, leader; Boris Vasilyevich Gladkikh — Candidate for Master of Sports, Eduard Andreyevich Oshe — Candidate for Master of Sports, Vladimir Ivanovich Popov — Candidate for Master of Sports.
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Climbing certificate for Kirpich peak via South wall, route description, technical details and team composition.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — ROCK
  2. Ascent region — Gl. Kavk. ridge from Nakhar pass. 3. Ascent route — Mt. KIRPICH via South face, 0 variant. 4. Ascent characteristics: length — route 1000 m, wall 680 m; height difference — route 820 m, wall 670 m; average steepness — wall 90°; length of difficult sections — 680 m; 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 109 expansion — 13
  3. Number of travel days — 3 Number of hours — 37, number of nights — 2, bivouac, no water. Team —
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Description of the ascent of the CS DSO "Trud" team to the summit of Kirpich via the North-North-East wall, a 6th category of difficulty route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category: rock
  2. Ascent area: recreation centre "Uzunkol"
  3. Ascent route indicating peaks, their altitudes, route complexity (and other approximate details): — peak Kirpich, 3744 m above sea level, 6B, via the North-Northeast wall.
  4. Ascent characteristics: — Route length (wall): 1080 m — Height difference (wall): 850 m — Average steepness (wall): 78° — Length of difficult sections:
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Ascent to the summit of Kirpich via the West Face, category 5B, climbed by the LOS DSO "Trud" group in 1968.

1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition:

  1. Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS
  2. Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS
  3. Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS
  4. Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS
  5. Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged.

V. Kirpich

![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg "width":1401,"height":1923,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg","id":64745582)

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Description of the ascent route to the summit of V. Nhar (3780 m) via the northwest wall, difficulty category 6, height difference 1000 m.

1. Nature of the Ascent

1.1. Class of ascent — rock climbing. 1.2. Area of ascent — Western Caucasus, Nakhar region. 1.3. Peak — B. Nakhar, 3780 m, northwest wall (B. Koralin route). 1.4. Category of complexity — 6B. 1.5. Number of pitons driven: 1) for belaying — 23; 2) for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH) — 5; 3) rock pitons — 23; 4) ice pitons — 0;

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Description of the first ascent of Trapezia Peak (3743 m) via the East wall in the Western Caucasus, complexity category 5B.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Region — West Caucasus, Uzunkol valley.
  2. Peak Trapezia (Main/3743 m/) via East wall
  3. Route category — 5B, first ascent
  4. Route description: height difference — 450 m average slope 60°, length of sections 5B–6B –350 m
  5. Pitons hammered on ascent: rock — 80 (10 left in place)
  6. Number of climbing hours — 14 + 4 processing 1978, July 12 — approach to the route I3; July 14 — route processing — I20;
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Climbing route description to the summit Filtr 3760 m via the northern counterfort, category 3 difficulty, located in the Western Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — rock climbing
  2. Ascent area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
  3. Ascent route — FILTR peak 3760 m, northern counterfort
  4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B category difficulty
  5. Route characteristics — height difference 760 m, average steepness 45–50°
  6. Pitons hammered:
    • rock: 18 (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)
    • ice: 3 (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)
    • bolt: — (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)
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**Ascent route 2A category via the eastern ridge from Chungur-Bashi saddle: description, recommendations, and required equipment.**

Chungur-Dvar Peak

Ascent from the col from Chungur-Bashi along the eastern ridge, category 2A difficulty. From the col from Chungur-Bashi peak, move left onto the ridge and ascend the rocks to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge for 20 m (belay!) and then ascend left and upwards for 10 m; follow the wall with an inner corner (pitons!) to the next ledge. From here, use a 15-meter inner corner (belay! piton!) to reach the shoulder of the ridge's rocky ascent. Along the ridge to a 5-meter slab and traverse right (belay!) to ascend to the main ridge. Follow the ridge to where it becomes less steep and then along a narrow crest to reach the summit. From the col to the summit takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent from the summit follows the category 1B route to Chungur Pass. The further descent route coincides with the ascent route.

Recommendations for Climbers:

I. Number of participants in the group - 2 training units II. Initial bivouac: upper Kichkinekolye, without overnight stay. When ascending Chungur-Bashi, bivouac at Kichkinokol Pass. III. Departure time from bivouac - not later than 4–5 am.

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