REPORT

on the ascent to v. Glavny Amanauz from the north, via the spur through the firn ridge, first ascent from July 15–17, 1972

I. Group Composition

Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, b/p, DSO "Spartak" "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Khamsov A.P. — 1st category, junior instructor a/l "Alibek", b/p, DOO "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Interaction group — group of Severo-Donetsk gatherings, route to v. Glavny Amanauz from Amanauz pass 3B category.

II. Alpinist-Geographical Characteristics of the Glavny Amanauz Peak Area

v. Gl. Amanauz (3755 m) is located in the area of the Main ridge, surrounding the cirque of the East Amanauz glacier and has a long ridge, stretched approximately from west to east (see attached map). Three classified routes lead directly to v. Gl. Amanauz:

• from Amanauz pass, along the western ridge 3B category

Main peak of Amanauz via SW wall 3757 m

First ascent (approximately category 5B)

Group members:

1. Kuzmuk V.V. - team leader, 1st sports category
2. Shakin S.A. - participant, Master of Sports
3. Bychek A.M. - participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
4. Verba A.A. - participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
5. Mudrenok V.N. - participant, 1st sports category The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" alpine camp. Coach - Magomedov Kh.K.

Ascent Passport 21

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent region

• rock climbing
• Caucasus, 2–2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

3. Peak, its height, and route: Main Dvuzyub (Dvuzubka), ascents

• 3757 m, via the north-eastern slope through the "зеркало" (mirror)

4. Proposed category of mountain difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics

• height difference — 957 m, including 800 m to Dvuzubka peak, average steepness

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Amanaus via the Main route on the East wall (“Dvuzubka”, control and evaluation route by Kavunenko, category 5B), made by the instructors of “Alibek” alpine camp Sorokin A.G. and Akhtyrsky O.A. from August 1 to 4, 1977.

Explanations for the table

The table of main characteristics shows the indicators of the route taken from August 1 to 4, 1977. Leaving the bivouac under the wall on August 1, 1977 at 8:00, the group started moving along the route without prior processing. After the preceding bad weather, the passage of the beginning of the route was difficult due to:

• fresh snow on the rocks;
• flow ice. The wall is lit by the sun from 6:00 to 12:00 and by the end of this time it is practically clear of fresh snow. For insurance and creation of belays, 8 piton hooks hammered in by previously passing groups were used. The group did not hammer in their own pitons, and they consider bending the lugs of the pitons to be impractical. The following groups will have to hammer them in approximately the same places, which will slightly complicate their passage, but will lead to cluttering of the route.

Traverse

of the Amanauz and Sofrudju massif with ascent to Dvuzubka via the East wall 6A Team of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "Spartak" Coach and team leader - Master of Sports of the USSR Kavunenko V.D. Moscow 1964

Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of Dvuzubka peak

Dvuzubka peak is located in the mountainous part of the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region of Stavropol Krai. To the east of the Sofrudju snow dome, a sharp decline begins towards the Amanauz Pass saddle, then the ridge rises by more than 250 m, forming a huge three-peak massif:

• Main Amanauz

ASCENT ROUTES TO:

• AMANAUZ UZLOVOY PEAK via W. RIDGE, Cat. 4A diff.
• AMANAUZ (Uzlovoy - Glavny) PEAKS, TRAVERSE, Cat. 4A diff.

Fig. 20

2. Traverse of Белала-кай from the North — Category 3B difficulty (Fig. 20)

From Медвежья поляна upwards — to the right towards the rocky ridge, then along the grassy slopes and through the stream along the grassy couloir to the bivouac site. From Домбайская поляна — 4 hours. From the bivouac:

• to the right — upwards through the scree to the snowfield (in teams) and 100–120 m below the northern edge to a narrow shelf ( крюк! );
• then traverse to the left — upwards for 30–35 m (2–3 крюк! );
• then to the right — upwards along the steep rocks to the second wall;

Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Belalakaya Main 3861 m.

via the Eastern ridge through the chimney. 4B cat. diff. (variant) Presumably IV B cat. diff. Semenov M. A. – CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports) team leader Bogdanova M. V. – 2nd sports category experience Alpclub – Mountain Madness

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.

Participants of the ascent

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4–5

Route to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge, cat. 4Б

Mt. Belalakaya, 3861 m. 120 m, 20°, 1. 40 m, 70°, +4. 20 m, 30°, –2. 80 m, 60°, 3. 80 m, 60°, –4.

Climbing Report on Mt. Belalakaia (3851 m), located in the area of the Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass, via the Western Counterfort, Category 4B (tentative)

I. The route was first ascended in 1972 by a group from the "Alibek" tourist camp, consisting of:

1. Grigorenko-Prigoda Yu.I. — Master of Sports of the USSR
2. Shumikhin V.S. — Master of Sports of the USSR On July 12-13, 1974, a group from the "Alibek" tourist camp made the ascent, consisting of:
3. Bondarev V.M. — Category I sportsman — team leader
4. Kokodii N.G. — Category I sportsman
5. Mishustin A.G. — Category I sportsman II. Brief geographical description of the ascent area Mt. Belalakaia (3851 m) is located in the Western Caucasus, on a spur of the Main Caucasian Range branching north from the peak Zadnaya Belalakaia. The black rocky pyramid of Belalakaia is encircled by several white quartz bands.