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Description of the route 2A category of difficulty to the summit 20 лет ССО (3350 m) via the northern ridge with details of passing sections and insurance.

B. 20 лет ССО (3350) via the northern ridge, 2А category of difficulty

From the base camp, ascend along the trail in a southerly direction until you reach a high, rocky plateau (1 hour). Cross the plateau in an easterly direction, passing by the beginning of a talus ridge (1.5 hours). Descend via a traverse along the slope of the gorge and the first lake. Move along the gorge until you reach a control cairn. Continue southward, bypassing lakes 2 and 3 on the left, and proceed to a clearly visible pass between V. 3000 m and V. 20 лет ССО. The route begins with an osypnoy (talus) couloir.

  • Section 0–1: From the start of the osypnoy couloir, ascend towards the pass. At the pass, there is a control cairn.
  • Section 1–2: Move along the ridge from the pass, following the base of a gendarme. Simultaneous movement with belay through ledges.
  • Section 2–3: Ascend from the base of the gendarme to its summit along the ridge. Near the summit of the gendarme, navigate through a crack in a smooth, inclined slab. Alternating movement with piton belay. At the summit of the gendarme, there is a 2nd control cairn.
  • Section 3–4: Descend from the summit of the gendarme down a vertical slab and a rappel loop using free climbing onto a horizontal ledge. Alternating movement with piton belay.
  • Section 4–5: Rappelling from the rappel loop onto a horizontal ledge at the base of the gendarme; 6 meters after starting the descent, perform a 20–25° pendulum swing to the left under an overhanging section. Continue descending through a 2nd overhanging section until reaching the base of the gendarme.
  • Section 5–6: Simultaneous movement along inclined slabs to the right of the ridge with belay using ledges and protection elements.
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Ascent to Peak Komsomol (3429 m) via the central counterfort of the North Face, a challenging route that includes rocky and snowy terrain.

p. Komsomol (3429) on the central ridge — Category III complexity

From the base camp, we ascend to the plateau in the direction of the E Glacier (I, category 7). We then move along the plateau in its eastern direction towards the beginning of the p. Komsomol ridge. We cross the ridge in its lower, gentler part and descend along the moraine to the lakes (I, 54). We move along the lakes to the saddle between v. Spartak and the ridge of p. Komsomol. After crossing the saddle, we ascend to the route (I, 54). At the beginning of the route, there is a guiding cairn. After the guiding cairn, we move along the snow, about 200 m. Then, we ascend along easy rocks, 150 m, on a wide ridge, and then reach the "ram's foreheads" (60–70 m). At the time of ascent, the "ram's foreheads" were snow-covered — movement with organization of rope protection. Further:

  • we ascend along moderately difficult rocks to a wall, 5–6 m high, before which a control cairn is located (to the right, a large gendarme is located in a couloir);
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Report on the first ascent of route category 2A to the summit of Emilia 1st via the right gendarme of the central couloir of the northern ridge.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT EMILIA 1st VIA THE ROUTE RIGHT GENDARME OF THE CENTRAL COULISSE OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE TEAM OF THE FEDERATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING OF MAGADAN REGION, FROM 23.10.2022 TO 23.10.2022. 2022

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the team leaderKergin I.V.
1.2Full Name, sports rank of the participantsKergin I.V. Pervushkin E.P.
1.3Full Name of the coachKergin I.V.
1.4OrganizationFAiS MO
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Index (2595 m) via the South-Eastern ridge route, category 2A, completed by the training department of the AS "Polytechnic" on August 6, 2018.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF INDEX PEAK (2595 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2A, BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF AK "POLYTECHNIC" ON AUGUST 6, 2018 Leader: N.N. Bakharev, Coach: V.A. Molodozhen St. Petersburg 2018

1. Ascent Details

№№1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderBakharev N.N. – 3rd sports rank
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsFineeva A.A. – 3rd sports rank, Sadovsky S.V. – 3rd sports rank, Duplak A.K. – 3rd sports rank, Lymanyuk A.Yu. – 3rd sports rank, Molodozhen V.A. – Master of Sports
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Description of the 5B category route via the west wall of Campanile Basso (2887 m) in the Dolomites, Brenta area.

Passport

  1. Class — technical
  2. Dolomite Alps, Brenta region
  3. Campanile Basso, 2887 m via the west wall
  4. Category 5B
  5. Height difference — 603 m, length — 680 m Average steepness of the route — 78°
  6. Pitons used: Rock bolts sky-hooks | 55 | 0 | 103 | 0 |
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Ascent record for the peak Petit Choraq via the West face in Cha­mo­nix, 6A grade, rock route, 750 m height difference.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent area — Chamonix (France)
  2. Peak name — Petit Joras via West face
  3. Proposed — 6A cat. diff.
  4. Route type — rock climbing
  5. Height difference — 750 m
  6. Route length — 816 m
  7. Average steepness of the route — 67°, main part — 82°
  8. Length of sections with 5 cat. diff. — 270 m, 6 cat. diff. — 230 m
  9. Equipment used on the route: fixed pitons — 4, nuts — 54/15, cams — 62/10
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Report on the ascent of the 8th detachment to the summit of Pti Aiguille Verte via the NW ridge, category 2B, in the area of the Glacier du Grand Montets, Mont Blanc massif.

Report

On the ascent of the 8th group to the summit of Petit Aiguille Verte (3512 m) via the NW ridge, category 2B. Grands Montets glacier area, Mont Blanc massif, Chamonix, France. Leader: N.R. Ivanov Coach: N.R. Ivanov St. Petersburg 2018

I. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderIvanov N.R., Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsKolesova A.Yu., Lazarev A.Yu., Lazareva E.Yu., Khrapov S.N., Shadrin A.A., Yakovleva A.N.
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Report on the ascent to the summit of Aiguille de la Glares (2852 m) in France via a 2A category route, with a detailed description of the path and recommendations.

Report

Ascent Report

on Mt. Aiguille de la Glière (2852 m), 2A cat. dif., Aiguilles Rouges Massif, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France. Leader: Olennikov S. A. Coach: Molodozhen V. A.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderOlennikov S. A. — CMS
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Report on the ascent of the 8th group to the summit of Aiguille de la Glière (2852 m) via the right part of the W buttress, category 2B, France, Chamonix.

Report

On the ascent of the 8th team via the right part of the East buttress of Aiguille de la Glière (2852 m), 2B category of difficulty. Area of Aiguilles Rouges, Chamonix, France. Saint Petersburg 2018 Leader: N.R. Ivanov Coach: N.R. Ivanov

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderIvanov N.R., Master of Sports
1.2Full name, sports rank of the participantsKolesova A.Yu., Lazarev A.Yu., Lazareva E.Yu., Khrapov S.N., Shadrin A.A., Yakovleva A.N.
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Report on the ascent of the national team to the summit of Aiguille Croux 3256 m via the Ottoz — Hurzeler route, rated 5A.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the combined team from Moscow, Tomsk, and Omsk Region to the summit of Aiguille Croux 3256 m.

via the SE face, Ottoz–Hurzeler route Proposed category: 5A Gorodeckaya O.A. — leader

  • Prilepskaya N.E.
  • Smaikina S.V. Alps 2013

Climbing Participants

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