2. Time of ascent. Krasnodar cranes to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Agepsta Main, 3261 m, along the north-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45°, length of sections: I — 80 m; II — 520 m; III — 340 m; IV — 55 m; V — none; VI — none.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for descent, etc. rock 21, ice, bolt
7. Number of walking hours — 9 hours.

1012

ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category: Rock climbing. 2. Climbing area, ridge: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Awadkhara region. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Mt. Kardyvach Main, 3150 m, via the center of the South face. 4. Estimated difficulty category: 4B (winter). 5. Route characteristics:

Fig. 19

1. Ascent to the summit of Belalakaya (3851 m) via the southern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 19)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the streamlet descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Across the streamlet onto the snowfield and 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrudzhinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!), straight up the steep section to the trail and along it to the Medvezh'ya (Bear's) clearing. From the Medvezh'ya clearing first across alpine meadows (trail), further across snow and 300–350 m east of Belalakaya slopes — exit to the Sofrudzhinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain: 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams) up — right across the glacier and left of the rocky outcrop (beware rockfalls from Belalakaya slopes!) exit to the Belalakay pass. From the pass across easy rocks of the ridge up and further across two gendarmes (piton belay!) to the third one. Ascent along the ridge of the third gendarme to the steep part, then detour left along the ledge to a narrow couloir, up the couloir to a notch and through it around the gendarme exit to the ridge (belay!). From the ridge right — down 5–7 m, exit to quartz rocks and across them ascent to the ridge. Along the ridge up to the scree and across it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit 6–7 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 4–5 hours. Ascent variation:

• Bypass the rocky outcrop
• Ascent right across the snowy slope to the couloir
• Ascent up the couloir 70–80 m

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.

Fig. 57

1. Ascent to the peak Perednyaya Chotcha (3637 m) via the counterfort of the northern wall — category 4B difficulty (fig. 57)

From Dombay plain by car to the Severny shelter. From the Severny shelter:

• via a log across the Khokel river
• further along the trail on the left side of the Chotcha gorge to the snowy couloir under the northern wall of the Chotcha peak Ascent:
• up the middle of the couloir to its middle part
• then via the "ram's foreheads" and uncomplicated rocks

Fig. 58

3. Ascent to the Perednyaya Chotcha peak via the northwestern ridge — category 4B difficulty (Fig. 58)

From the Northern refuge along a log over the Khokel river and along the trail alongside the Chotcha river to the foot of the northwestern ridge — bivouac. From the Northern refuge 1–2 hours. From the bivouac along the slope and grassy ledges left-upwards under the first overhanging spur on the ridge. Bypass the spur from the left (protection through the spurs!), then right-upwards onto the ridge to a loose couloir (rockfall danger!) and along it under the 100-meter wall of the first ascent. Along the wall of the ascent:

• right — upwards 35–40 m,
• then left — upwards,
• exit onto grassy ledges (protection through the spurs, partially bolted!). Further:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus (from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass)
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Semyonov-Bashi peak 3602 m via the central bastion of the southern wall
4. Expected difficulty category — 3A
5. Height difference — 1100 m
6. Pitons driven (rock anchors for belaying) — 4
7. Number of travel hours — 5
8. Participants — Abarbarchuk Georgy Samuilovich, CMS, 2nd sports category. Boyko Viktor Viktorovich, CMS, 3rd sports category.
9. Date of team's departure on the route and return — July 8, 1981

Brief Description of the Approach

From the "Alibek" mountaineering camp in the direction of the "73" pass, follow the trail through the stream under the waterfall and then along the stream from the slopes of v. Semenov-Bashi up the trail to a steep grassy slope. Having passed it, exit to the left ridge of the upper moraine. Follow the trail on the moraine for about 500 m and then traverse left along a steep grassy-scree slope to the ridge of large and medium scree in a small hanging valley, going from the saddle between v. Semenov-Bashi and v. Maly Semenov-Bashi. Possible bivouac site, water available.

Brief Description of the Route

From the bivouac, follow the medium and large scree (at the beginning and middle of the season, along a snowy slope) 500 m in the direction of the saddle between v. Semenov-Bashi and v. Maly Semenov-Bashi and, 150 m before it, turn right onto a ledge. Along the 0.5–2 m wide ledge (1–2) 400 m to a snow-scree couloir, leading left of the "Lopata" gendarme. Up the couloir 100 m and, bypassing the gendarme on the left, 50 m along the ridge to a 35-meter wall with a vaguely defined internal angle, steepness 50–60°. Up the wall straight with piton belay (possible rockfall) to a sharp ridge. Then traverse 5 m to the right into an internal angle of slab-like structure, steepness 40°, and up it 35 m (pitons), exit to the ridge. Further along a gentle ridge 60 m — exit under the black wall. From here, traverse along a ledge to the right 40 m to a wide scree southern slope of the summit and along it 300 m to the right-up to a notch. Then 100–120 m along the ridge (route 1B cat. dif.) to the summit. Descent via route 1B cat. dif. Control tour is installed on the ledge when bypassing the "Lopata" gendarme. Here is also a convenient place for a forced bivouac.

Table of Main Characteristics of the Ascent Route

PASSPORT

Ascent to v. Hokel via the Eastern ridge

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range
3. Peak, route — v. Hokel, 3645 m, ascent via the Eastern ridge from the saddle between v. Hokel and the Nameless peak on the left.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 700 m length of sections: II cat. diff. — 400 m