Tyutyu East - West, combined, 3A

Route Description

The path from the "Dzhailyk" hostel goes along the right side of the Kullukol gorge to the foot of a steep grassy slope, on whose shoulder the "Paradise Campsite" is located. From the "Paradise Campsite", the ascent begins along the moraine until reaching the Western Tyutyu glacier. Crossing the glacier along its central part, we reach the foot of a snowy shoulder located on the eastern slopes of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. We ascend the steep snowy slope to the shoulder (avalanches!!), then along a heavily damaged rocky ridge of medium difficulty, we reach the 5th peak of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. The descent from the 5th peak to the saddle and the ascent to the Main peak go along a sharp snowy ridge (cornices!!). From the Main peak, we descend along monolithic block-type rocks (1.5–2 ropes). Here, there may be flow ice covered with snow. The ascent to the 3rd peak goes along a rocky ridge of medium complexity. It is advisable to move to the left. The descent to the saddle between the 3rd and 2nd peaks goes along snow-covered slabs. On the saddle, there is a gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. Having passed the gendarme, we approach a 6–8 m rock wall, which is climbed using free climbing with piton belay, after which we reach the 2nd peak. Along a wide snowy ridge, we move towards the 1st peak along a snowy slope, bypassing the gendarme on the left, and descend to the Kullumkolsky pass. Having descended from the pass, we reach the Western Tyutyu glacier and, crossing it, we return to the "Paradise Campsite". Time from "Ullu-tau" hostel to "Paradise Campsite" is 1.5–2 hours. From the "Paradise Campsite", the entire traverse takes 14–15 hours.

CENTRAL CAUCASUS. ADYR-SU VALLEY ALPINISM CAMP “DJAILYLYK”

V. Cheget-Tau Chana from the east via the wall. (Route description of the first ascent)

Group: DAVYDOV A.P. — leader

• VYSHINSKY N.N.
• PLYUKHIN Y.V.
• SUKHORUKOV A.T. August 1963 The Cheget-Tau Chana peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range. The ridge of the Cheget-Tau massif, enclosed between the peaks of Latsga and Gumachi, stretches from southeast to northwest. The ridge is weakly dissected and has an insignificant number of "gendarms". The highest point of the massif has an elevation of 4102 m and is located in its northwestern part — the Main summit. The southeastern part of the ridge has some dominance over the adjacent ridges and can be considered its Eastern summit.

284. Chegettau via the North-West Face (Nikolaenko's combined route, cat. 4B, fig. 18, 32). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac at the Gumachi Moraine platforms is described in route 286. From the bivouac, cross the Gumachi Glacier and approach the left side of the North-West Face of Chegettau peak.

In the ice and snow couloirs on the left and right sides of the North-West Face:

• icefall seracs overhang. From the glacier:
• overcome the bergschrund;
• ascend a steep ice and snow slope (icefall, rockfall) to reach the rocks on the left side of the Lower Rock Belt of the North-West Face. On the monolithic, moderately difficult and difficult rocks of the face:
• ascend 80–100 m to a small ledge;
• from the ledge, 60 m upwards on rocks of above-average difficulty (avalanches, rockfall) to a ridge;
• follow a poorly defined 60-meter steep rocky ridge to reach the Lower Rock Belt.

Description

Ascending "Piki Aviatsii" Peak via the South Face, Category 2B difficulty

Location: Elbrus region, Kurmy valley, Kurmychi glacier (upper part). Route characteristics: south face, rocky. Route: ascent via the south face (from the Kurmychi glacier moraine). Characteristics of the peak:

• the peak is located in the lower part of a spur connecting the Kurmychi (4056 m), May 1st Peak, and Piki Aviatsii peaks;
• like all peaks in the MRP peaks area, Piki Aviatsii Peak is a heavily destroyed rocky massif with a wedge-shaped structure featuring a cascade of ledges, walls, and internal corners;
• the route's rocks are covered with fragments of destroyed rocks;
• it is essential to be constantly aware of the rockfall hazard on the route.

V. Uilpata

4648 m

Report

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Mt. Uilpata via the ice gully along the Southern ridge "3B" (c) Tomsk, 2008 Participants: Temerev I.M. Terekhin V.A.

Table of Contents

1. Class of ascent — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Vulleya peak, 3960 m, via the South Edge, East Counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, average steepness — 40°, length of sections: II — 340 m, III — 530 m, IV — 280 m, V — 80 m.
6. Pitons driven: for insurance: rock — 17, ice — 0, bolt — 0; for creating RTO — 1.
7. Number of travel hours — 10.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — 0.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Elagin Vasily Igorevich, 1st sports category; Kurkin Nikolay Sergeevich, 1st sports category.
10. Team coach — Golovin A.A., Master of Sports.

Dedicated to the memory of Mikhail Khergiani

73

Report

• on the first ascent of Donguzorun (Main) via the North wall, 5B category of difficulty

Central Caucasus

1978 Team of instructors at the Baksan alpine camp:

• Stadnik V.F. — CMS
• Chegel V.I. — CMS

Report on the Ascent of Donguz-Orun via the North Face

Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

The peak Donguz-Orun (4,452 meters above sea level) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the Donguz-Orun pass and the Becho pass. To the west of Donguz-Orun lies the peak Nakra-Tau, essentially serving as a shoulder of Donguz-Orun. Donguz-Orun, like Elbrus to its north, is characterized by significant glaciation. All three peaks of Donguz-Orun are covered by a powerful glacier, reaching thicknesses of 120–150 meters. On the southern side, towards the Nakra valley, this glacier has natural, gentle slopes. However, on the north, northwest, and northeast, due to the steepness of the slopes forming the walls, the summit glacial shield breaks off with sheer drops. The ice is expended in these directions through ice avalanches, making the northern walls of Donguz-Orun highly dangerous to traverse. The glacier on the peaks of Donguz-Orun is often referred to as the ice "cap" or simply "cap". The peaks of Donguz-Orun have been visited by climbers multiple times, with several ascent variations available. The most well-known route is the ascent via the northern ridge (4A category of difficulty), which is traversed annually by many climbing groups. Furthermore, ascending Donguz-Orun from the west, along gentle ice and snow slopes (2B category of difficulty), is quite common. This route is also typically used for descending from the summit after ascending via the northern ridge. Notably less frequent are ascents via two other routes:

Ascent Passport

1. Technical climbing category.
2. Region 2.4, Caucasus, from Chiperezau pass to Gumači peak, Elbrus southwest spur.
3. Kyukyurtlyu (Kyukyurtlyu–Kolbashi), 4639 m, point 107, T. Lukashvili route 1981, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Rock route.
5. 6B category of difficulty, seventh ascent.
6. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain — 590 m,
   • Route length — 845 m,
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 310 m,