5.3.121

Championship of the Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik", 1982. High-altitude technical class

Report

On the ascent to Chapdara Peak (5297 m) via the Eastern wall, category 6B, undertaken by the team from the Voroshilovgrad Regional Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "Burevestnik".

Team Leader	Zagirnyak M.V.
Team Coach	Lyapin Z.F.
11.08	Distance, m
-----	----------------

Navigation is difficult (3 pitons). After the chimney, we reach the shoulder. From the shoulder upwards along the ruined rocks and talus, we reach the ridge. On the right, just below the ridge, on a rocky ledge, is the 1st control point. Further along the ruined rocky ridge, we pass to a monolithic rocky ridge, which we knock down from the left, descending onto a snowfield (photo 1). Along the snowfield with a steepness of 30° (3 ropes), we ascend to the talus leading to a section of gray moistened rocks - the "Ram's Foreheads". From the ridge to the "Ram's Foreheads", 4 hours are spent. Taking slightly to the right from the ridge, we approach a couloir made of red stone with an overhanging rock above. This section is the first to be passed without a rope. Navigation is difficult: 7 m (2 pitons). After the couloir, we emerge onto an inclined shelf with talus. From here, a traverse of the steep right wall of the "Ram's Foreheads" begins (photo 2). The traverse (6 ropes) requires great physical and moral tension. The belay is piton (14 pitons). The last выступ of the "Ram's Foreheads" can be passed by making a traverse slightly downwards, but at the end, there is a very difficult exit to the ridge. It is easier to continue moving upwards along a barely discernible inclined shelf (6 m, 2 pitons) with an exit to the ridge. 15 m along the ridge and a steep descent into a gap. The "Ram's Foreheads" are passed in 4 hours. Further movement along the ridge with alternating belay through ledges (150 m). We approach a large inclined slab (45–50°). We pass the slab in the lower part, where there are good handholds (40 m, 1 piton). After the slab, there is a small descent along the couloir, and then an ascent along a steep, loose talus, 50 m, and we find ourselves on a large rocky plateau before the "Mirror". On the plateau is the 2nd control point and an overnight stay. Time: 19:00. July 19, 1963. At 9:00, we approached the "Mirror" (photo 3).

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Ridge. 3. Summit — Sarit-Tamur (4429 m) via the western ridge 4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, combined route 5. Height difference — 1179 m. Length — 1540 m. Length of sections 4–5 category of difficulty — 350 m, of which 5 category of difficulty — 100 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 50° 6. Pitons driven: Rock: 55. Nuts: 33/2. Bolt: 2. Ice: 5 7. Climbing hours — 16 (1–2 days) 8. Overnight stays — 1, lying (on a ridge)

связка: social angle (not avalanche-prone) detour to the angle on the shelf to the right? Further — up the destroyed rocks (50 m, steepness 55–60°), then along the inclined shelf 8 m (cold rock) — exit to the ice couloir. Up the couloir I rope (45°), traverse to the right on the ice (fig. I-2) — to a short edge under the characteristic rock "tooth" (ice cliffs, chopping steps, digging). Second overnight stay. Immediately from the overnight stay, traverse to the right and up 50–60 m along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). Further, three ropes with belay through ledges with exit to the ridge (“live” stones). The ridge is straightforward — 200 m. From here under the «ём (fig. I–3) along the wall (I rope of difficult climbing), then two ropes of very difficult rocks (14 pitons) and along the rocky couloir exit to the ridge. This is the second key section of the route.

A large snowy ascent. Further, I, 5–2 ropes along a 60–70° snowy slope with an exit left onto rocks. There is a bivouac site here. You can set up I–II tents, after roughly processing the thawing ice that creeps onto the rocks. From the bivouac on the Northeast buttress — 9–12 hours. Along the 30–35° snowy ridge — two ropes until exiting onto heavily destroyed simple rocks, leading through 30–40 m onto the ridge, which is a continuation of the Southeast buttress of the summit. Further movement along the ridge involves overcoming a small "ryzhyi mandar" head-on or bypassing it on the left with an exit in 40 m under a 30-meter wall. The wall is overcome via an internal corner with frozen rocks (rock pitons). The exit onto the wall on the right is less convenient due to cornices on the rocks. After overcoming the wall, a sharp rocky ridge exits under a large rectangular "mandari" rock. The "mandari" is bypassed on the right (I rope) with piton protection. Further movement (4.45 ropes) along the ridge with good monolithic rocks and cornices on the right until the pre-summit. The pre-summit plateau is convenient for an overnight stay. From the pre-summit to the summit, there are 100 m practically without any ascent (be cautious, with cornices on the right). The exit onto the summit, which is a large cornice, is along the visible line of rocks on the left in the direction of travel. The summit tour is arranged between two large monolithic rocks in the western part of the summit. Ascent time:

• From the bivouac site on the rocks under the southeast buttress — 5–7 hours.
• Descent from the summit via the ascent route — 12–14 hours.

Тща­тель­ной причёс­кой отра­бот­кой и на коп­ках. От места под­ход­ки на пере­вале 2 ч 30 мин. The ice ridge turns into a rocky ridge. Here, difficult climbing on rocks (40°), covered with thick flow ice. Insurance through pitons. There are loose rocks. After 40 m exit to the right to a site protected from rockfall from above. Further movement upwards:

• first along stratified rocks,
• then on ice,
• then along 25-meter rocks (60°), which is a continuation of the ridge. At the exit from the rocks, there is a convenient site for organizing insurance, above -

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan ridge, Laylyak gorge, 5.4.2.6.
2. Name of the summit: AkSu (N) 5217 m, name of the route:
3. Proposed – 6th cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Nature of the route: Combined
5. Height difference of the route: 1467 m Route length: 1940 m Length of sections with R0 cat. diff. – 400 m, R1 cat. diff. – 1155 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 73 °

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Lyaylyak gorge
3. Peak Ak-Su (North) 5217 m
4. Difficulty category 6A
5. Elevation gain 1510 m, length 2080 m, including 1550 m of bastion
6. Average slope 68°. Average slope of steep section 72°.
7. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nut | Ice | Bolt removable | Friend |

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION RUSSIAN CHAMPIONSHIP 2004, WINTER ASCENTS CLASS

Report

The combined team of the Krasnoyarsk Krai Sports Committee ascended Peak Ak-Su (C) 5217 m via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face. The route is considered to be a first ascent with an estimated difficulty of 6B.

Ascent Details

1. Region — Pamir-Alay, Laylyak region, №5.4.2.
2. Peak — Ak-Su (C) 5217 m. Ascent via the "mirrors" of the central part of the north face.
3. Proposed difficulty — 6B, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route characteristics: