First ascent of the route to Peak Sverdlova (5400 m) via the eastern counterfort through the summit 5280 m. Peak Sverdlova, 5400 m high, is located east of the Ters-Agar pass in the ridge branching off the main Trans-Alay range to the north. Approach to the route: from the Amrug-Kurgan settlement, head southeast for 35–40 km to the Kок-Kyik gorge. Follow the wide valley on the right side (orographic) of the river to the confluence of the right tributary. Cross to the left bank of the left component of the river; continue along the Kutasov trail to a small lake on an ancient moraine (altimeter reading 3800 m), where the route begins. The ascent starts on fine scree with uncomplicated, ruined rocks. After 2 hours, several gendarmes are encountered:

• the first gendarme is passed head-on,
• the second — from the right, with piton protection,
• subsequent ones are passed head-on with protection via ledges. From an elevation of 4400–4500 m, the route follows deep snow; movement is simultaneous. It is advisable to set up an overnight camp at an altitude of 4800 m, after 5–6 hours of travel. From a flat area on the ridge (4800 m), a steep ascent begins on snow in the direction of a narrow rocky ridge, which is bypassed on the left. The snow is loose and deep. From the middle of the rocky ridge, the steepness increases sharply (up to 50–55°). The most challenging section of the route (5–6 pitches) is the final push before reaching the pre-summit ridge. Movement is significantly hindered by ruined, schistose, flaky rocks covered with patchy ice and shallow snow. Protection is via ice screws and step cutting. The exit to the pre-summit ridge is to the left of the topmost part of the rocky ridge.

The summit of Pik Sverdlova is a huge cornice hanging to the east; ridges branch off to the NE, SE, and SSE. On the northeastern part of the summit, there is a rocky outcrop where a bust of Ya. M. Sverdlov was installed and a cairn was built, with flags of the Russian Federation and Kyrgyzstan erected. Descent from the summit is possible via any of the three branching ridges. Our group descended via the ascent route. The route's difficulty is assessed by the group as category 5A. Ascent time calculation.

1. Ascent from Lake 3800 m to the base camp on the ridge at 4800 m — 8 hours.
2. Traversing the section from 4800 m to the summit at 5280 m — 8 hours.
3. Traversing the section from the cave to the summit of Sverdlova — 7 hours. Recommended equipment for a group of 8 people:
4. Tents — 2 pcs.
5. Ropes 40 m × 4
6. Ice screws — 10 pcs.
7. Rock pitons — 10 pcs.

Ascent Logbook

1. Ascent Category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent Area: Pamir, Zaalaysky Range
3. Ascent Route with Summit Elevations: Kyzyl-Ogyn 6679 m via the eastern wall
4. Ascent Characteristics:
   • Elevation gain: 6679 m – 4600 m = 2080 m
   • Average slope of the Eastern wall: 55°
   • Average slope of the entire route (across the plateau): 40°
   • Length of complex sections during ascent: 2285 m
5. Pitons Used:

Alpinism Federation of Azerbaijan

Report

On the ascent to

PEAK IBN SINA (LENIN) 7134 m WORLD ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP. HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS. July 3 — July 23, 2012

Baku, 2012

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Kyrgyzstan, Pamir, Trans-Alay range
2. Peak name: Lenin Peak

Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)

Climbing Details:

1. Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
2. Climbing style: alpine.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
4. Pitons left on the route: 0

CS "DSO "Zalgiris""

ASCENT TO LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE SOUTH 5A cat. sl. IN HONOR OF THE 25th ANNIVERSARY OF SOVIET LITHUANIA (report for the 1965 USSR Climbing Championship) Vilnius, 1965

II. BRIEF GEOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION AND SPORTING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE LENIN PEAK REGION

Lenin Peak, with an elevation of 7134.3 m above sea level, is located in the middle part of the Trans-Alai Range and is its highest peak. The peak is connected to Peak Dzerzhinsky (6713 m) to the west and, via the Krylenko Pass (5820 m), to the ridge of Peak Edinstva (6673 m) to the east. To the south, in a spur of the Lenin Peak massif, lies the Moscow-Peking Peak (6852 m). The Lenin Glacier flows from the northern massifs of Lenin Peak. The southern slopes of the peak are drained by the glaciers:

• Big Sauk-Dara (to the east)
• Small Sauk-Dara (to the west) The elevation difference between Lenin Peak and the middle part of the Sauk-Dara Glacier is about 3000 m. The slopes of the peak are covered with glaciers and thick layers of firn snow. In some places, the slope steepness reaches 55°. The slopes are cut by crevices up to 100 m or more in depth. Snow avalanches and ice collapses are frequent. Atmospheric pressure at the summit (7134 m) is 290 mm. Lenin Peak is the third highest seven-thousander in the USSR and is quite popular among climbers due to its relatively easy access to the starting points of the ascent. Most ascents are made from the northern side, from the Lenin Glacier.

LENIN PEAK (7134 m) FROM THE NORTH VIA THE SPUR FROM LIPKINA PEAK. Moscow – 1967

II. Preparation and Organization of the Ascent

In the autumn of 1966, the Moscow City Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Association decided to conduct a complex high-altitude expedition to the Pamir using collective travel vouchers. A coaching council was formed, consisting of Honored Master of Sports Ovchinnikov A.G., Master of Sports Bozhukov, and Honored Coach of the RSFSR Radel V.A. The head of the organizational committee was Master of Sports Galkin V.T., under whose leadership the preparations for the expedition were carried out. Training sessions were conducted according to a plan developed by the coaching council, three times a week, at the sports complexes:

• Bauman Moscow State Technical University (MSTU)
• Moscow State University (MSU)
• Tsaritsyno
• Khimki.

PLATEAU 6100 NORTHERN SLOPE OF THE EASTERN RIDGE OF PEAK LENIN

Climbing Description

The ascent route follows the path to Peak Lenin via Lipkin Rock.

Day 1

From the base camp at 3600 m, the path goes through pastures and "Onion Glade" to the foot of "Tent Rock." Then, through a lateral gorge, it follows a trail that leads to a saddle in the ridge named "Travelers' Pass." From "Travelers' Pass," the trail initially descends and then traverses to the right across talus slopes, crosses a canyon, and bypasses a standalone rock on the left. Upon reaching the glacier, a zone of lateral crevasses is encountered. The ice is heavily covered with debris. The path up the glacier towards Lipkin Rock initially follows its middle part and then, bypassing the icefall on the right, moves to the right orographic moraine, which is a chain of black hills of talus material extending from the foot of Lipkin Rock. The glacier in its upper part is closed, requiring travel in ropes. At the moraine near the foot of Lipkin Rock, there is a large area suitable for overnight stays, a common stop for many expeditions heading to Peak Lenin from the north. The height of this location is 4200 m. There is water available, and many areas for tents. The journey from the "Vysochnik" alpine camp to the 4200 m overnight stay took 6 hours. We take a one-hour rest to prepare hot food. We bypass Lipkin Rock on the right and, entering a wide snowy couloir, ascend through the snow, cutting steps, to the ridge of Lipkin Rock, marked in descriptions as 5200 m. The ascent to Lipkin Rock from 4200 m took 2 hours. On the ridge, there are many cleared areas for tents, and on the snowy plateau to the left of the ridge, water can be uncovered under the snow. On a terrace below the ridge, the remains of Lipkin's plane are visible.

Report

On ascending Lenin Peak via the Southwest Ridge from the Malaia Sauk-Dara valley. First ascent - approximately Category 5B difficulty. Climbing category — high-altitude. Team leader: Yushin N.P. Coach: Honored Master of Sports Kuzmin K.K. Moscow, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru www.alpfederation.ru

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, 2.3
2. Peak name: Dalar, North-Eastern edge
3. Category 5B complexity
4. Route type: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1422 Section lengths:

• Category V complexity: 830
• Category VI complexity: 10 Average steepness: