1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing area — Central Tian-Shan (Karakol)
3. Peak, its height, route — Peak 4310 m, via the central NW buttress.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics height difference — 510 m, average steepness — 45°, route length — 745 m
6. Pitons driven rock — 10, chocks — 3, ice — 10
7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours
8. Team composition:

PHOTO # 9: Morning view of the Altus massif from the North (August 1998) PHOTO # 10: Morning view from the East on the left northern ridge of Altus (May 1998). The described route is shown by a solid line on both photographs. ASCENT DOCUMENT # 4 Class: ROCK CLIMB Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge Peak: ALTUS Height: 3200 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed category of difficulty: via the left northern ridge of Altus 3200, 2B (rock) (A. Yusev, 1998)

REPORT

on the ascent to peak Arsen in the western part of the northern wall (first ascent), category 5B difficulty, of the Sports Committee team of the Kazakh SSR Team members:

• 30/11-77
• Denisenko A.A.
• Vorobyov A.S. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 1977 www.alpfederation.ru

Approach to the route

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — combined
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak "Druzhba" 4100 m via Western ridge
4. Proposed category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m, section lengths: IV — 60 m, V — 140 m, average slope — 44 °
6. Pitons used: rock — (14/2), ice — 7, protection elements — 11
7. Total climbing hours — 13 h

Ascent Passport

Class: ROCKY Region: TIAN-SHAN, Ugam Range (7.II) Peak: ISHIMBAI Height (by group altimeter): 3590 m Route and proposed category of difficulty: From north to eastern ridge (FIRST ASCENT) 2A category of difficulty, combined Height difference: 400 m Length: 970 m, including 400 m - rocks Average steepness: 40° No pitons or закладные элементы were used. NO SIGNS of other groups' presence on the eastern ridge of the ascent object were detected.

Sayramsky District of the Ugam Range. Ascent to the "Kergely" peak, dedicated to the XIV Congress of the Komsomol. Category 1B. Height 3787.3 m.

You need to leave the bivouac located near the lake as early as possible, because the peak is quite far away (departure at 6:00 am at the latest). Moving along the right side of the ancient moraine, we reach the depression left by the ancient glacier. The approach to the depression takes 1.5–2 hours. From the depression, we ascend directly "head-on" up the steep snowfield, keeping to the left side, to reach easy rock terrain, and, continuing along the rocks or snow (if it's not loose), we reach the first ascent to the pass. The path from the depression to the end of the first ascent takes 40–60 minutes. Then begins the second ascent along a snowfield with a steepness of 45–50°. The path from the first ascent to the second takes 30 minutes. After that, we move to the third ascent and reach the pass. As we ascend to the third rise, we need to gradually move to the right towards three rocks protruding with sharp peaks. The entire path from the depression to the end of the third ascent is along the snow and takes one and a half to two hours. By-passing the three isolated rocks from the south, we reach the south-eastern ridge. The further path goes along the south-eastern ridge. The ridge consists of severely degraded rocks with small, loose scree. At first, the belay is organized alternately, and then, as we move forward, we can move simultaneously with running belay. Severely degraded rocks are circumvented from the south, slightly below, along the loose scree. Having reached the first depression, we descend into it and emerge onto the southern snowy slope. The slope has a steepness of 40–45°.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Tian Shan, Ugam range, section number according to the 2001 classification table: 7.11.
2. Name of the peak: Kyzylbash (4200 m), route name: via the left part of the NE wall.
3. Difficulty category: 6A.
4. Route characteristics: rock.
5. Route elevation gain: 695 m, route length: 755 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category — 258 m, 6th difficulty category — 207 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 89°, entire route — 82°, 72°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 7; including bolted pitons — 2. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolted | Chocks | Ice | | :---------: | :---------: | :-----------: | :------: |

The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".

Description

Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range

Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent. The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya". From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya". After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.

Description

Via the Northwest Ridge

First ascent to the peak "Pioneer", height 3923 m

(above sea level), Ugam Range (Western Tian Shan).

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.