Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — combined
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak "Druzhba" 4100 m via Western ridge
4. Proposed category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m, section lengths: IV — 60 m, V — 140 m, average slope — 44 °
6. Pitons used: rock — (14/2), ice — 7, protection elements — 11
7. Total climbing hours — 13 h
8. Number of overnight stays — none
9. Full names of team leader and participants: Amilin G.N. — CMS, Maltsev O.Yu. — 1st sports category, Kraychak N.G. — 1st sports category, Golodov Yu.F. — ICMS.
10. Team coach — Honored Coach of Kaz.SSR — Popenko Yu.S.
11. Date of departure and return — September 5, 1987
12. Organization — Kazakh Alpine Club

Profile of the Western ridge (view from the right)

Description of route sections:

• R21: 300 m, 25 °, category 1
• R20: 20 m, 80 °, category 4
• R19: 60 m, 80 °, category 5
• R18: 300 m, 45 °, category 3
• R17: 40 m, 60 °, category 4
• R16: 40 m, 30 °, category 2
• R15: 40 m, 70 °, category 4+
• R14: 15 m, 80 °, category 5
• R13: 30 m, 80 °, category 5+
• R12: 10 m, 80 °, category 6
• R11: 40 m, 90 °, category 5+
• R10: 40 m, 80 °, category 5
• R9: 40 m, 70 °, category 4+
• R8: 20 m, 70 °, category 4
• R7: 60 m, 70 °, category 4
• R6: 10 m, 90 °, category 6
• R5: 30 m, 80 °, category 5
• R4: 40 m, 60 °, category 3
• R3: 30 m, 55 °, category 3
• R2: 20 m, 70 °
• R1: 250 m, 35–40 °