Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, key peak of the Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, and Chegem gorges area.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJAILYK, 4533 m, rock route, via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections of V difficulty category – 45 m, VI difficulty category – 120 m.
5. Estimated difficulty category: – 5B.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • for belay
     • rock: 32
     • bolt: 42

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, a key peak in the Adyr-su, Tyutyu-su, and Chegem valleys area.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Djailyk, 4533 m — rocky route via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
4. Category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 550 m, average slope 75°; section lengths: 2nd difficulty category 200 m, 3rd–4th 215 m plus traverse to the summit; 5th and 6th difficulty category 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: for belay — 16, for R.P.E. — 20; chocks: for belay — 22, for R.P.E. — 28.
7. Number of climbing hours — 19.

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Kravchenko Inna Anatolyevna, CMS
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Shchekinova Tatyana Viktorovna, CMS
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Vasilyev Andrey Sergeyevich

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical
2. Climbing region — Caucasus, Adyr-Su valley
3. Mt. Dzhailyk, via the Central counterfort of the South wall (Khazkevich's route)
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 600 m Height difference of the wall section — 300 m, route length — 1137 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 202 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
6. Pitons used: rock, bolt, ice, and chock placements: 38/3, 4×, 1+2×, 49/6× (reuse of previously driven pitons)
7. Travel time: — 8.5 hours, days — 1

Tina­yyol ha­ya­ra­ra MAPUPST From the upper Kpchkpdarsky bivouacs, crossing the Zapadnыy — Su glacier, we approach the summit of Dhaidik from the west, to a narrow snowy ascent, where the route begins.

• In the lower part of the couloir (20–40 m) we ascend via a large jammed stone. We overhang this stone on the left (possibly on the right).
• Along the right -300 wall of the couloir, we ascend to its upper part (40 m).
• In the upper part, we move to the left side of the couloir onto a steep ledge (psychological moment). Insurance is through a crook. The transition is carried out by stepping over the couloir.

Moscow Alpinism Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Ascent Report

To the peak Dzhailyk, 4424 m, via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib by Frantsuzov's route Team KAiS MPEI Moscow, 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Dzhailyk node between Donkin and Kilar passes, section number according to the classification table 2.4.1.
2. Dzhailyk peak 4424 m via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib (Frantsuzov's route 1970).
3. Difficulty category: 5B.

Report of the Rostov Region team on the ascent to the summit of Jailyk (4424) via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 5B

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Caucasus, 2.4.1. From Gumachi pass to Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys);
2. Peak, route: Jailyk 4424 m via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 1970;
3. Category: 5B;
4. Route type: rock;
5. Route height difference: 670 m; Route length: 905 m
   • Length of sections: V category — 180 m
   • Length of sections: VI category — 80 m

North-West Federal District Championship in Alpinism (high-altitude technical class)

Climbing Report

on the ascent of Dzhailik peak (4424 m) via 1st S buttress of 3 rib (M. Franzuzov's route, 1970, 5B grade) The route was completed on August 5, 2024. Participants:

• Yakuba
• Nikolai
• Chetverikov
• Denis

Contents

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrkh spur, Dzhaulyak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhaulyak, 4533 m, via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m, average steepness — 75 °, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. – 83 m. 6. Pitons driven: * rock: for belaying — 43, for creating I.T.O. – 34 * ice: for belaying — 2, for creating I.T.O. – 1 * bolt: for belaying — 1, for creating I.T.O. – 4

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: