7. II – Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge

Climbing Descriptions

The trail leading up the right (hereinafter – orographically) bank of the Sayram-su River, in 40 minutes' walk from the rock with memorial plaques, turns left above the eastern tributary, which some call "CHIMBULAK", forester Benkov – "KOP-JAILYAU", and the gamekeeper names this "alley" of the Ugam Ridge "WILD CLIMBERS' GORGE". Walking along it upwards along occasionally interrupted paths, from the confluence (elevation 2000 m) to the lake below the Snezny Pass – 4–5 hours walking time. Above the lake on the scree there are good sites (elevation 3280 m). The ascent to the pass is on the right, where a scree island cuts through the cornice. The grassy hill rising to the west near the pass is the junction of three ridge crests. The ridge towards the majestic Kara-tau has not yet been classified, and the ridge towards the Druzhba massif rests against the alignment of rockfall-dangerous walls. But descending from this ridge to the left, you can cross the snowy "tie" and ascend along the eroded Eastern buttress to the southern shoulder of the massif. This buttress, closer to the pass, can be called "right", as to its left, on the other side of the large snow field (800 m to the South), a parallel buttress descends from the southern shoulder – "distant" or Southeastern. Both buttresses were climbed in 1996 by interacting groups of Ural climbers.

Vladislav Peak

Class: ROCK. Region: TIAN SHAN, UGAM Ridge. Height: 3620 m (by altimeter from the 3360 m elevation of Snezny Pass indicated on the tourist map)

SW Ridge Route (1B cat. diff., first ascent)

2. Climbing area, ridge ­— C ­— 8 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route ­— Dvoeglazy, 4355 m NW ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty ­— 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of section 1­–5 km, average slope in degrees ­— height difference 1300 m, avg. slope 40°, length of sections: Cat. I complexity ­— 800 m
   Cat. II complexity ­— 300 m
6. Placement of pitons for insurance to create artificial anchor points:

2. Climbing technique, ridge —
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Манас, 4482 m, eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections I–V cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 100 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 500 m, II cat. diff. — 500 m, III cat. diff. — 100 m
6. Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points: local — 5, loop — 2, bolt — none
7. Difference in travel hours — II
8. Number of nights, and their characteristics — none

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — winter/rock/
2. Region — Pamir-Alay, Dughoba valley
3. Peak, route — p. Kalkush (4100 m) via SE wall, cat. 5B (approx.) Length — 750 m of wall section. Height difference — 535 m. Avg. steepness — 73° Length by sections:

• R1 – 255 m
• R2 – 85 m
• R3 – 195 m
• R4 – 20 m

| :--: | :--: | | 1. Ascent category — | Technical ascent up to 4400 m | | 2. Ascent region — | Pamir-Alai, Dugoba road area | | 3. Ascent route — | Along the right ridge of the eastern wall | | 4. Ascent characteristics: | height difference — 500 m | average steepness — 6° | length of complex section — 200 m | | 5. Pitons hammered in: | | | | rock pitons | 18 pcs. | | ice pitons | none | | bolt pitons | none | | chock stones: | none |

Alpinist group from "Dugoba" camp. Material on the first ascent of the route

Technical category, leader - ZINOVIEV G.N., team commander - VERBITSKY G.G. Peak Mekhnat is located in the Pamir-Alay region between the Ak-Tash and Surmitash-Davan glaciers. Ascent plan to Mekhnat on July 25, 1976: July 24, 18:00 - Ascent to Upper Ak-Tash overnight stay July 25, 5:00 - Departure under the north-eastern ridge 6:00 - Approach to the first control cairn 14:00 - Ascent to the summit 16:00 - Return to the base camp

Route description

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Alay ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. I. S. Nikitin 4820 m via the North ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference from p. Aydarbek to v. 4820 m — 970 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 360 m, average steepness is 3°–60°.
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors
   • rock — 20
   • ice — 30

Ascent Log

to p. 4420 (p. Tashkentsy) via the Western Counterfort 3A cat. diff. (approx.) 26 I. Type of ascent — combined 2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alay, Guamysh gorge 3. p. 4420 via the Western Counterfort 4. Category of difficulty — 3A (approx.) 5. Height difference — 500 m; average steepness 45° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 for belay, 1 — to create an artificial support point. 7. Number of climbing hours — 8 hours

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Ajaljhilga gorge
3. Peak OSh 4180, via the center of the 3rd wall.
4. Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
5. Height difference: 498 m, length 603 m — (section R0–R15). 365 m — (section R0–R15). 393 m Length of sections 5–6: 285 m. Average steepness of main sections 80°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--- | :---- | :--- | :--- |

PASSPORT

I. High-altitude class 2. South-West Pamir 3. Peak Engels 6510 m via the Center of the eastern wall 4. Difficulty category — 6 5. Elevation gain: 1410 m, wall length 900 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 530 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°. 6. Pitons hammered: