ASCENT DOCUMENT

Ascent class: technical.
Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Alay ridge.
Peak, its height, ascent route: p. I. S. Nikitin 4820 m via the North ridge.
Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff.
Route characteristics: height difference from p. Aydarbek to v. 4820 m — 970 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 360 m, average steepness is 3°–60°.
Number of pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors
- rock — 20
- ice — 30
- bolt pitons
Number of travel hours — 16 hours.
Number of nights and their characteristics.
Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications: Tarasova T. I. — II sports category — leader Korovnikov R. I. — I sports category — participant Perelygin S. I. — I sports category — participant Lyubavin S. S. — II sports category — participant
Team coach: Zaev E. F.
Date of departure and return: July 28, 1977 – July 29, 1977.

p. Koltsova and p. N. Nikitin. Koltsova (В) and Koltsova (3)?

Panorama of v. 4820 m (p. N. Nikitina) and v. Aydarbek 5127 m — on the right.

Appendix 2

Designation	Average steepness	Length, m	Relief	Difficulty	Condition / Conditions	Belay (rock)	Belay (ice)	Belay (bolt)	Passed (rock)	Passed (ice)	Passed (bolt)	Time (h, min)
R0–R1	40°–45°	500	slope, ledges	2	Fragmented, good rocks	Simultaneous	-	-	-	-	-	1 h 30 min
R1–R2	10°–15°	350	ridge I	5	Fragmented, good	-	3	-	-	-	-	2 h 30 min
R2–R3	85°	120	wall, corner	Unstable rocks, good monolith	10 rock pitons, 3 outcrops	-	2	-	-	-	-	4 h
R3–R4	40°	250	ridge, ledges	2 outcrops	Fragmented, good	Simultaneous	-	-	-	-	-	1 h 30 min
R4–R5	45°–50°	160	rock-ice	Icy, good rocks	4 outcrops, 5 rock pitons	-	-	-	-	-	-	1 h 30 min
R5–R6	50°–55°	320	ice ridge, IV–V ice	-	Good	25 rock pitons	-	-	-	-	-	5 h