Category II Ascent

I. Rock Class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Dvoynyashka Zap. peak, 3743 m, via 10В wall, second ascent. 4. Category of difficulty — 5Е. 5. Height difference — 650 m, total route length — 1050 m, length of sections with 5 — 6 category of difficulty — 500 m. Average steepness — 78° 6. Pitons hammered — (for belay / for creating I.T.O. / rock ice bolt anchors) 55/18 0/0 4/2 88/26 7. Number of climbing hours — 21, days — 2.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus from Nakhar Pass to Chipper-Azau Pass, spurs of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Dvuzubka Peak 3600 m via the center of the southwest wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain: 780 m; average steepness: 71°; length of sections: II — 80 m, III — 170 m, IV — 290 m, V — 440 m (VБ — 320 m).
6. Number of pitons driven:

2. Ascent to the summit of Severny Dolomit (3710 m) via the southwest face — Category 3B difficulty From the bivouac near Dolomit Lake, ascend via talus to the base of the face, in the direction of two black streaks of running water on the face. Below them lies an outwash cone, and above it, three caves. The ascent primarily follows the left streak. The lower part of the face is very steep, so after the talus outwash, move left onto a ledge. The alternating traverse from the first to the second and then to the third ledge is done via internal rock corners (Belay!). The third ledge leads into a couloir with a black streak, along which the ascent continues. From the third ledge, cross the couloir and continue upward along the right side of the couloir. The rocks here resemble "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!). In case of bad weather, a second ascent option is possible. (After entering the couloir, ascend to its right ridge and continue up it to the end of the couloir. This path is technically more challenging). Ascend via the rocks on the right side of the couloir to a 4-meter wall below a large black overhanging wall. Cross the wall (Pitons! Can be climbed with a boost) and continue 30 m via easy rocks to the ridge, cross it, and then move right into the second couloir. Traverse right and upward through the couloir to the ledges. Ascend the ledges to the second stream (Belay!) and continue up along it via rocks resembling "sheep's foreheads" (Belay! Pitons!) to a wide talus ledge. From the base of the face — 5 hours.

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Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — rock
2. Ascent region — West Caucasus — Uzunkol
3. Ascent route — Severny Dolomit 3710 m via the right part of the western wall, 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Ascent description: route length — 930 m; wall height difference — 495 m; average wall steepness — 75°; length of complex wall sections — 295 m.

3. Ascent to South Dolomite via the west face — Cat. 3B

The summit of Kara-Baschi — 3600 m

1. Ascent via the eastern edge — category III complexity (Description of the route as you move to the summit) From the "Uzungkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the right moraine of the Mordy glacier. Along it, and then along the grassy slopes (trail) to a large green terrace — a bivouac site — "Mordy overnight stay". From the camp — 3–3.5 hours. From the bivouac, up to the right to the talus couloir and up it to the upper rock outcrops. Then (in bundles!) along the steep snowslope (belay!) to the left and up to the talus plateau. (At the beginning of summer — snowy). From the plateau, traverse a steep snowslope (belay!) to the slopes and further to the foot of the eastern edge of the summit. Bypassing the edge on the left and along the ledge to the right and up — exit to the edge ridge and along it 300 m to a ledge turning into an overhanging wall 5 m high (belay, hook!). Along the wall, exit to an inclined ledge ending in an overhanging wall 8 m high. Along the wall straight up to the ridge (belay!) and along it 40 m to the wall. Along the wall 17 m to the right and up along the slabs (hooks!) and further along the edge to the ridge. From the ridge, descend into a dip — 20 m — rappel and then ascend 15 m to a site in front of a negative 4-meter wall — and through it exit to the ridge (method of overcoming — "live" ladder — belay!). Along the ridge 40 m to a lowering in the ridge, then ascend along a steep snowslope (belay!) and along the rocks covered in ice — exit to the summit. Descent:

M29. Brick via the Western Wall along the gullies

(rock route, category 4B, first ascent by G. Sedov's team, 1969) The ascent to the plateau of the Myrdy Glacier is described in route M16. Move along the glacier to beneath the snowy slopes at the center of the western wall. The right-hand end of the wall "diamond" with black streaks on completely smooth walls, topped with an oblique series of cornices, is the landmark for the route's entrance. To the right of the cornices on the wall is a huge gully (do not enter — loose rocks!). In the next, narrower gully, on its right side, stands a separate rock resembling an enormous bottle with a neck tilted to the left — this is the landmark for the route's entrance. Below, to the right of the "bottle," are two rock formations forming the bases of counterforts-ribs ("gates"). Between them is a narrow snowy "tie." The left counterfort is the lower part of the large wall with black streaks, and the right one is the wall of the gully through which the lower part of the route passes. Under the right part of the gully's wall is a large rantkluft that narrows at the narrowest part of the "gates." Ascend from the rantkluft up the steep snowy slope to the start of the rocks. On the right side of the grey rocks (this is the lower part of the gully), reach the R1 ledge. From here, ascend via a cleft to a small ledge beneath a short rib — the edge of the R3 gully (monolithic climbing with small holds). Landmarks for further movement are:

• to the right above — an enormous, sharply protruding vertical rib-corner;
• to the left — the edge of the large gully.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass.
3. Ascent route — Kirpich Peak (3300 m) via the North face.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1050 (face — 700), average steepness — 47° (face — 67°), length of complex section — 160 m + 120 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 226, ice — none, bolt pitons — none.
6. Total climbing hours — 39.
7. Number of bivouacs — 3 (2 on the face): on ledges, in tents, snow present.
8. Team name — Team of Leningrad Regional Council of DSO "Zenit".
9. Team members: Ivan Yakovlevich Shestipalov — Master of Sports, leader; Boris Vasilyevich Gladkikh — Candidate for Master of Sports, Eduard Andreyevich Oshe — Candidate for Master of Sports, Vladimir Ivanovich Popov — Candidate for Master of Sports.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — ROCK
2. Ascent region — Gl. Kavk. ridge from Nakhar pass. 3. Ascent route — Mt. KIRPICH via South face, 0 variant. 4. Ascent characteristics: length — route 1000 m, wall 680 m; height difference — route 820 m, wall 670 m; average steepness — wall 90°; length of difficult sections — 680 m; 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 109 expansion — 13
3. Number of travel days — 3 Number of hours — 37, number of nights — 2, bivouac, no water. Team —

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.