ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — Technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the center of the North face.
4. Complexity category — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: route length 970 m from the bergschrund, height difference to the ridge — 850 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 520 m, average steepness — 67°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 69 (8); chocks — 57 (5); ice — 40 (0).
7. Team's travel hours: 21 hours; 1.5 days.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one bivouac on a snowy ridge.

Ascent Certificate

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: "Slovakia" 3700 m, Central Ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 370 m average steepness — 74° length of sections: I — 40 m, III — 90 m, IV — 235 m, V — 75 m 6. Number of pitons driven:

3. The summit, its height, and the ascent route: Bolshoy Chimgan (3277 m), the left buttress of the north-eastern wall.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 4B.
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference along the route — 1677 m. average steepness of the route — 70° length of sections of category I difficulty — 2500 m, II category difficulty — 1880 m, III category difficulty — 190 m, IV category difficulty — 85 m, V category difficulty — 220 m, VI category difficulty — 20 m
6. Number of pitons driven: for belaying 114 pcs; for creating artificial footholds 2 pcs. rock — 114 pcs, ice and snow —
7. Number of travel hours — 23 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one overnight stay, on a scree ledge, good bivouac.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification: Leader: Murtazin Oleg Galimovich — 1st sports category.

XXXII USSR Climbing Championship – Rock Climbing Category – Pamir-Alai –

Report

The team from the Sports Committee of the Ministry of Defense of the USSR on the ascent of Peak Konstruktors (4100 m) via the center of the left part of the South Face.

1. Mikhailov A.A. — team leader and coach — Master of Sports
2. Kharitonov A.P. — deputy leader — Candidate for Master of Sports
3. Zadvoryev Yu.V. — team member — Candidate for Master of Sports
4. Povolotsky V.Yu. — team member — Candidate for Master of Sports (–9) 07.81

1. Climbing class — technical
2. Climbing area, ridge — Alai Ridge, Pamir-Alai
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Aidarbek, 5127 m, via the North Ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 100 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff.: 250 m
   • average steepness: 55°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating IC:

First ascent via the NE edge, category 4A, to the summit of Zub Begichi (4100 m), Alaysky Khrebet, Kok-Su gorge

Alpinist camp “Alay” (head of the training department — Honored Coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR A.F. Naumov). Group composition:

• G.G. Andreev — Master of Sports
• V.S. Balyberdin — 1st sports category Leningrad, 1978 Photo 1. Zub Begichi peak (4100 m). Northeast wall and profile of the northeast buttress (view from the east).

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kemisdykty gorge.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Koltsov Peak, Main summit, 4824 m, East face.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: the route is combined, height difference — 900 m, including wall part — 700 m, length of 5th difficulty sections — 395 m, length of 6th difficulty sections — 150 m, route length — 1580 m, average steepness — 73°.
6. Pitons used (for belay/for aid climbing): rock — 79/3, drilled — 1, ice — 3, chocks — 46/2.
7. Number of climbing hours — 18.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one bivouac on a ridge in a tent.
9. Full name of the leader, team members, and their qualification:

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION 48

1. CATEGORY — TECHNICAL
2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAY ridge (Kurgan (south))
3. PEAK — S.M. TSVILLINGA peak 4326 m, first ascent via the north face (COMB.)
4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 910 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 347 m Average steepness — 70°
6. PITS ON: For belaying: rock — 77, for creating artificial anchors (ИТО): rock — 9. Ice — 10. Bolts — (no data)

"... I felt offended that someone had been here before me, and at the same time I was proud of the human mind and will. From here, he had already conquered the mountains..." N. V. KRYLENKO "On unexplored Pamir"

Zamin Karor

Climbing history of the area

From V. Stukhin's report, 1976 Diagram # 3 Photo # 1. X — pass Tsentralny

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship 1971. Category I ascent details: 2. Region of ascent: 3. Route of ascent: high-altitude and technical. Central Pamir. eastern wall of Peak Kommunizm with further traverse of the massif. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference 1750 m, average slope 65°–70°, length of difficult sections 1500 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 188; ice — 38; bolt 6. Number of climbing hours: 74.5 h.