Ascent Passport

1. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy, section 6.1.2
2. Pik Lyubvi 2121 m via waterfall ice on the right stream of the SW ridge
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty in winter, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined. Elevation gain: 1111 m (GPS); Average slope of the entire route: 32°; Total route length: 2100 m; VI category of difficulty: 0 m; V category of difficulty: 0 m;

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GEOMORFOLOGOV (2155) VIA THE SOUTHERN WALL COULOIR (THROUGH THE BIG FROZEN WATERFALL) CATEGORY 3B ROUTE IN WINTER CONDITIONS FROM 24.02.2023 TO 25.02.2023

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent to the summit "Enbek"

The altitude above sea level according to the altimeter is 3920 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main northern ridge. It is situated in the gorge of the Karasai river, a tributary of Aksu, in the left spur of the Main ridge. From the northeast - an ice wall that starts from the glacier and ends on the summit ridge. Steepness is 45–50° and from the east and southeast - destroyed rocks, partially covered with snow. From the south - a rocky ridge. To the west - a large scree, which ends in rocks at the bottom. Departure at 6:00. The path is in the Karasai river gorge. Exit to the "Enbek" pass via scree at 9:00. Further - along the ridge to the south. To the left - an ice wall, to the right - a frozen scree. Movement is exactly along the ridge. Three ascents are overcome. Before the fourth ascent - an ice couloir, which descends to the west to the Koksai river valley. The ascent is icy. Crampons and insurance via an ice axe. The length of the steep part of the ascent is 50–60 m, with three pitons hammered into it. Steepness is 45–50°. Further path is along the ridge of frozen rocks. On the summit at 12:00. Return to the west via scree with exit to the couloir. Descent to the Koksai valley at 15:00 (descent took 2 hours). To the base camp at 18:00. The weather is cold with wind, continuous cloud cover. The ascent was made on September 15, 1963, as part of the group:

• KONDRATYEV - leader - CMS
• GATSUTS - III sports category

Aktyuz Pass. Descend from the pass about thirty meters down the icy slope to the bergschrund (be careful!). Piton insurance. Go 150 m along the lower edge of the bergschrund, then down and right across snowy and sometimes icy slopes up to 40° to complete the descent onto Kroshka Glacier. Traverse Kroshka Glacier: go along the very middle in the upper part, and on the right side in the tongue area. Cross the moraine to a trail leading down the Orta Talgar valley.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Maximum 6 participants.
2. Initial bivouac on Kopor Glacier.
3. Depart from initial bivouac no later than 5 am.
4. Equipment for a 4-person group: a) 2 × 40 m main ropes; b) 1 × 40 m auxiliary rope; c) 5 slings; d) 10 rock pitons; e) 6 ice pitons; f) 2 hammers; g) 6 carabiners. Fig. 43a

Molodezhnaya 1B cat. sl. via Molodezhny pass, descent along the NE ridge

Description of the route. The fan-shaped Molodezhnaya peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Malo-Almatinsky spur (between the eponymous pass and the peak named after Kosmodemyanskaya). Its southwestern slope is covered with powerful scree, while the northeastern slope is covered with snow and ice. The massif of the peak and its northeastern ridge are the main source of nourishment for the 2.5 km long, 2 sq. km Molodezhny glacier. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier:

• Cross the ramparts
• Reach the glacier slightly above its tongue
• Move along the middle of the glacier to the foot of the slope of the Molodezhny pass (3735 m) The slope is snowy, with exposed ice areas at the end of the season, with a steepness of 30–35°. From here, begin the ascent to the ridge straight up, orienting towards a group of rocks; it is not recommended to go to the left — it can trigger an avalanche. The ridge leads to the so-called "chicken breast" — a steep section of snow or ice, which is overcome with piton belay (2 ice screws) along the fixed ropes or bypassed along the rocks. The length of the section is about 40 m, with a steepness of up to 50°. Beyond the "chicken breast" is the exit to the shoulder of the peak — a small snow plateau; from here, the ascent to the peak follows snow and a gentle, fine scree. The peak is a wide snow plateau with the remains of a destroyed ridge, on which a cairn is built. Descent along the northeastern ridge. The encountered gendarmes are easily bypassed. Insurance is sometimes necessary. Having reached the two-pronged gendarme, one can:
• release the main ropes

Youthful 2B cat. diff. via North slope

Description of the route. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto the glacier and move towards the rock outcrop on the northern slope of the peak. Move along the northern slope to the right (over ice) of the rock outcrop, in teams, wearing crampons. Depending on the condition of the slope, one can move simultaneously or with alternating belays. The first 150–200 m are overcome directly upwards, here the slope steepness is 25–30°, then it increases to 50°, so piton belays are used (2–3 pitons). Then a short traverse to the right, along small crevices. After 50–60 m, ascend a small flattened area, where many crevices up to 1 m wide are encountered. At the end of the section, near a driven ice piton, there is a control cairn. From here:

ОПТЭ (4480 m)

Ascent from the Shokalsky glacier via the North-Eastern ridge, route category 2A (fig. 23). The summit of ОПТЭ is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the north of it lies the Shokalsky glacier, to the south - one of the branches of the Bogatyr glacier - the Shuitsa glacier. From the Talgar alpine camp, follow the trail up the gorge to the Shokalsky glacier. To the left of the river, ascend the steep lateral moraine of the glacier, along its upper part to a gentle sandy area. This is a possible bivouac site. From the camp - 4 hours walking. It is possible to continue along the same moraine further to a characteristic hill with a cairn. After three hundred meters - descend to the glacier. After a kilometer and a half, cross the glacier to the right towards the scree of the eastern spur. Here is also a convenient place

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent region: North Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Maloe Alma-Atinskoe gorge
3. Peak, route: Ordzhonikidze Peak (4410 m), via S slope, first ascent.
4. Presumed category of difficulty: 4B, combined
5. Height difference: 600 m total route length — 840 m, wall section length — 720 m, of which 5th category of difficulty — no, 6th category of difficulty — no, average steepness of wall section — 60°, average steepness of route — 50°
6. Pitons driven (figures in denominator — for ITI): rock — 6/0, ice — 47/0, chocks — 0, bolt pitons — 0
7. Number of climbing hours/days: 8 hours/1 day

Fizkulturnik - Chkalova, traverse, category 2B

Route description

From the initial bivouac in the Talgar Pass area, move along the Bogdanovich Glacier towards the saddle between Peak Komsomola and Fizkulturnik peak. From there, ascend to the ridge of Fizkulturnik peak, approach its base, and ascend to the southeastern summit. After descending, move along a relatively easy ridge towards the western summit of the Fizkulturnik massif. After ascending and descending from it, cross the cirque and ascend to the northeastern summit of Fizkulturnik. Then, the ridge, gradually rising, leads to the main summit. From it, descend to a sub-summit and continue descending to the left. The first gendarme after the main summit can be overcome directly or bypassed from the southern side (cautiously!). When ascending to the saddle between the first and second gendarmes, the section is hazardous (rockfall), and the rocks are heavily destroyed. The second gendarme is taken directly with thorough belaying. When descending from it, belaying is necessary; it is also possible to bypass it from the right - only if there is a deep snow cover closing the crevices. The following sections of the route:

• A gentle snow plateau in the upper reaches of the Til Glacier;
• Ascend between groups of rocks along snow-covered slabs;
• Move to the saddle between Fizkulturnik and Chkalova peaks;

Appendix I

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — rock: 2. Ascent region — Main Caucasus Range and its spurs from Chipperazau pass to Orotokara peak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Bashil peak, 4257 m, 4800 m via the south face. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m, average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m. 6. Number of pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. average steepness — 75°, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 185 m 6B pitons: for belaying and for creating M.T.O. final 69, 18 bolted, 3 ice. 7. Number of walking hours — 26 (excluding descent). 8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 2, semi-reclining, in a tent. 9. Surname, name, patronymic of participants and their qualification: Merlis Viktor Petrovich — MSMK, leader