Pik Moldova

Moldova is one of the peaks of the lateral spur between the eastern branch of Grigoryev Glacier and the rear wall of Chon-Turasu cirque. It drops to Chon-Turasu with a sheer 1000-meter wall: a sharp pyramid covered with snow rises 100–150 m above it. Towards the branch of Grigoryev Glacier, the peak faces a steep snow and ice wall with rock formations in the lower part. On both sides of the peak, the lateral spur has a gently sloping snow and ice ridge, transitioning into Bolshaya Wall peak to the southeast and into a fork with passes to the northwest:

• Chyorny (to the northwest);
• Moldova (to the northeast). The ascent to the peak is carried out along the right slope of Chon-Turasu (under the "Skala" and "Snezhnaya Trapetsiya" landmarks), along the eastern branch of the glacier to Moldova Pass and then directly along the ridge to the peak. All ascents can be completed in one day.

Pik Molodyozhny 2931 m

The peak is located in the Main Ridge and is part of the massif that bounds the middle part of Issledovatelei Glacier from the south. Pik Molodyozhny is completely covered with an ice cap, and the peak stands out from the massif. There are two characteristic rock outcrops on the lower part of the northern slope:

• the lower one is long, resembling a retaining wall, separating the glacier flowing from the peak from Issledovatelei Glacier;

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit "Brigantina", made by the group of the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the DSO "Zenit" led by V.P. Popov. Photo 4. The northern ridge of the summit "Brigantina". View from the upper icefall pad.

1. General description of the area

The summit Brigantina 4800 m is located in the Terskey Ala-Too range, approximately 38 km from Przhevalsk in the northeast direction. The road goes up to the first saz, from where the distance to the foot of the summit is 8-10 km by horse and foot trail. The path goes:

• Through the Karakol gorge.
• Further through the Kock-bor gorge - the right bank of the river of the same name, which is a tributary of the Karakol river.

№ 352 dated April 25, 1972

Location of the summit

The summit "Kashak-su" 4125.9 m is located in the left half of the "Kaindy" ridge, which stretches in the latitudinal direction parallel to the Fergana ridge (Fig. 1). It is the highest point of this ridge. To the west from the summit, a relatively even long ridge descends, sharply dropping to the Kara-kol river, with the Ayry-tash pass (3200 m). To the east, there are two lower summits. They are followed by a long even ridge, which again gains height in the upper reaches of the Kara-kol river. Here is located the summit "Shagal-too" (3900 m). Further to the east, there are two more summits interesting for climbers: peaks 4125 and 4075 m. These summits have hanging and regenerated glaciers from the north. Peak 4075 m sharply drops into the Kara-Ungur river gorge. At the point of the drop, there are many short and beautiful sairs, overgrown with Tien Shan spruce at the bottom, and filled with ice and snow in the upper part. Adjacent to this summit is a horseshoe-shaped ridge, turning into the gentle Isfan-Jailoo ridge. The "Kaindy" ridge is formed by dense limestone and partially by schist. The northern slopes drop off with a smooth wall, while the southern slopes are more destroyed and abound with couloirs and scree. The summit is the longest gendarme extending from the main ridge. The cairn is located on a rocky site of the gendarme and is visible from afar. At the summit, a note was found from the Ovchinnikov group, who made the ascent via the northern ridge, category 3B. Fig. 1.

Access routes

77. Agidel from the North, Cat. 1B The route is ice-snow, Cat. 1B (Fig. 5, 61).

• Length — 600 m
• Elevation gain — 300 m
• Ascent time — 4–5 h The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alp camp (no group size limit) to the Joldzhilga pass is described in Route 18. Descend from the pass down a 150–200-meter talus-filled couloir onto the South Joldzhilga Glacier. Cross the glacier to the right and upwards (closed crevasses) and go under the north-eastern slopes of the Agidel summit, located in the left corner of the upper South Joldzhilga Glacier. From the glacier, after traversing the bergschrund, ascend along a 300–400-meter ice-snow slope followed by easy, broken 30–40-meter rocks to the summit of Agidel. From the Joldzhilga pass, it will take 2–2.5 hours.

5. Белая Пирамида from the south-eastern cirque, route 2А cat. diff., fig. 3.

(— 1954)

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier, move onto the glacier and head towards the base of the snow "tie" descending from the large pre-summit plateau of Белая Пирамида. By the end of summer, ice is possible. Overcome the bergschrund in the lower section and ascend to the snow plateau via a couloir alongside the rocks. The steepness of the couloir increases to 45° in its upper part. After reaching the plateau, it's better to stay close to the rocks and talus protruding from under the snow on the right. Ascend to the eastern ridge using these, where easy rocks are encountered in the upper part before the summit. From the Eastern summit, traverse to the Western summit via a snow ridge. The ascent to the Western summit is via a steep snow slope. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In case of poor snow conditions in the couloir, a descent from the Eastern summit to the south towards Стажёрский pass is possible. In this case:

• From the summit, descend left of the southern ridge onto the plateau.
• Then follow the ridge to the pass.
• Descend from the pass onto the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier.

From the pass to the summit is about 2 hours via the trail. The first and second mandarin are bypassed on the right, following the path and rejoining the ridge. Further along the spur with a snowy cornice and then we reach a steep firn slope (2 ropes). Then a straightforward ascent follows over rocks and snow to rocky outcrops on the ice. The ascent up the rocks involves variable protection. Above is an icy ridge crest, which is overcome by cutting 6–8 steps. Having overcome this ridge, we find ourselves on the summit. The cairn is located on the leftmost of the summit towers. Descent is via the ascent route.

120 m 70–80° I

Ascent Passport

Area — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Peak 60 let Pobedy. Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B. Height difference — 400 m. Distance — 1000 m. Use of technical means — ice axes, crampons, rope. Travel time — 7–8 hours from overnight stay. Leader — Shumilov V. D., instructor cert. No. 697 Participants:

• Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of Russia International Class
• Tinin Yu. P. — Candidate for Master of Sports
• Odintsov Yu. F. — 1st sports category
• Odintsov F. Yu. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
• Bedarev M. V. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
• Zhukov I. V. — unranked
• Zhukova A. I. — unranked

Mt. Ermolaeva S. (2163 m) – peak Ermolaeva (2153 m), 2A cat. diff.

From the base camp, immediately cross to the right side of the right tributary of the Ulun River and begin the ascent towards the obvious buttress of peak Sev. Ermolaeva. First, ascend the snowy slope for about 300 m in the direction of the first "bastion" on the buttress, which is 8 m high. It is overcome head-on. Then, along the sharp snowy ridge for 50 m, approach the base of the second 20 m "bastion". Pass it on the right side through the wall. Further, after traversing 70 m of a simple ridge, reach the third 5 m "bastion". Pass it on its right side via a clearly visible internal corner. Then, along a simple ridge, reach peak Sev. Ermolaeva. Movement along the buttress is logical and safe. Further, move along a heavily serrated ridge for 200 m towards the foot of a large "bastion". It is passed via slabs and a wall in the center – the key point of the route. Then, another 60 m of a heavily serrated ridge with gaps, which leads to a wide snowy ridge of the summit ascent of peak Ermolaeva. The total ascent time is 4–5 hours. Descent is via the S. ridge on route 1B cat. diff.

Route Safety Assessment

The route is ridge-based throughout. Snow cornices on the ridge to the left along the way pose a danger.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Usage and Route Passage Features

For groups of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics