Оya­tsa ma­pu­rya­ta­po sections

Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying:

• through ice screws Movement:
• on a double rope
• with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фи­фи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Tau ridge.
3. Peak — p. Krylya Sovetov via the north ridge.
4. Proposed category — 5B, first ascent.
5. Height difference — 1300 m. Length of sections with 3–4 category difficulty — 1750 m, 5 category difficulty — 480 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 43°, Entire route — 37°.

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit "Brigantina", made by the group of the Novosibirsk Regional Council of the DSO "Zenit" led by V.P. Popov. Photo 4. The northern ridge of the summit "Brigantina". View from the upper icefall pad.

1. General description of the area

The summit Brigantina 4800 m is located in the Terskey Ala-Too range, approximately 38 km from Przhevalsk in the northeast direction. The road goes up to the first saz, from where the distance to the foot of the summit is 8-10 km by horse and foot trail. The path goes:

• Through the Karakol gorge.
• Further through the Kock-bor gorge - the right bank of the river of the same name, which is a tributary of the Karakol river.

№ 352 dated April 25, 1972

Location of the summit

The summit "Kashak-su" 4125.9 m is located in the left half of the "Kaindy" ridge, which stretches in the latitudinal direction parallel to the Fergana ridge (Fig. 1). It is the highest point of this ridge. To the west from the summit, a relatively even long ridge descends, sharply dropping to the Kara-kol river, with the Ayry-tash pass (3200 m). To the east, there are two lower summits. They are followed by a long even ridge, which again gains height in the upper reaches of the Kara-kol river. Here is located the summit "Shagal-too" (3900 m). Further to the east, there are two more summits interesting for climbers: peaks 4125 and 4075 m. These summits have hanging and regenerated glaciers from the north. Peak 4075 m sharply drops into the Kara-Ungur river gorge. At the point of the drop, there are many short and beautiful sairs, overgrown with Tien Shan spruce at the bottom, and filled with ice and snow in the upper part. Adjacent to this summit is a horseshoe-shaped ridge, turning into the gentle Isfan-Jailoo ridge. The "Kaindy" ridge is formed by dense limestone and partially by schist. The northern slopes drop off with a smooth wall, while the southern slopes are more destroyed and abound with couloirs and scree. The summit is the longest gendarme extending from the main ridge. The cairn is located on a rocky site of the gendarme and is visible from afar. At the summit, a note was found from the Ovchinnikov group, who made the ascent via the northern ridge, category 3B. Fig. 1.

Access routes

77. Agidel from the North, Cat. 1B The route is ice-snow, Cat. 1B (Fig. 5, 61).

• Length — 600 m
• Elevation gain — 300 m
• Ascent time — 4–5 h The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alp camp (no group size limit) to the Joldzhilga pass is described in Route 18. Descend from the pass down a 150–200-meter talus-filled couloir onto the South Joldzhilga Glacier. Cross the glacier to the right and upwards (closed crevasses) and go under the north-eastern slopes of the Agidel summit, located in the left corner of the upper South Joldzhilga Glacier. From the glacier, after traversing the bergschrund, ascend along a 300–400-meter ice-snow slope followed by easy, broken 30–40-meter rocks to the summit of Agidel. From the Joldzhilga pass, it will take 2–2.5 hours.

5. Белая Пирамида from the south-eastern cirque, route 2А cat. diff., fig. 3.

(— 1954)

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier, move onto the glacier and head towards the base of the snow "tie" descending from the large pre-summit plateau of Белая Пирамида. By the end of summer, ice is possible. Overcome the bergschrund in the lower section and ascend to the snow plateau via a couloir alongside the rocks. The steepness of the couloir increases to 45° in its upper part. After reaching the plateau, it's better to stay close to the rocks and talus protruding from under the snow on the right. Ascend to the eastern ridge using these, where easy rocks are encountered in the upper part before the summit. From the Eastern summit, traverse to the Western summit via a snow ridge. The ascent to the Western summit is via a steep snow slope. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In case of poor snow conditions in the couloir, a descent from the Eastern summit to the south towards Стажёрский pass is possible. In this case:

• From the summit, descend left of the southern ridge onto the plateau.
• Then follow the ridge to the pass.
• Descend from the pass onto the Восточный ледник Белой Пирамиды glacier.

From the pass to the summit is about 2 hours via the trail. The first and second mandarin are bypassed on the right, following the path and rejoining the ridge. Further along the spur with a snowy cornice and then we reach a steep firn slope (2 ropes). Then a straightforward ascent follows over rocks and snow to rocky outcrops on the ice. The ascent up the rocks involves variable protection. Above is an icy ridge crest, which is overcome by cutting 6–8 steps. Having overcome this ridge, we find ourselves on the summit. The cairn is located on the leftmost of the summit towers. Descent is via the ascent route.

120 m 70–80° I

Fig. 12