(А. Zakharchenko, turclubbarhan@yandex.ru)

Ascent Passport

1. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge (7.11), Sayram-Su gorge.
2. Gagarin's peak 4000 m from the west along the south-eastern ridge from the west.
3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock (at the time of passage — heavily snowed).
5. Height difference of the route — 250 m (GPS). Route length — approx. 700 m, including sections of category II — 160 m. Average steepness of technical sections — up to 70°.
6. No pitons were left on the route.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category: rock
2. Ascent area: Western Tian-Shan, Sayram-Su gorge (base camp 1700 m)
3. Peak, route: Peak 20 years of Assembly of the People of Kazakhstan 3552 m (20 years of APK), via the southeastern ridge.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 1B category, rock, first ascent
5. Altitude difference according to altimeter: 852 m
   • total route length: approximately – 3000 m;
   • length of the wall section – none;
   • steepness: on difficult sections up to 40°;
   • average steepness of the wall section – none;

Ascent Passport

7.11 Western Tien Shan, Sayram-Su gorge (base camp 1760)

Medvezhiy 3015 m

First Ascent X)

Route of first ascent: from the east to the south ridge Proposed: 1B cat. difficulty, rock Altitude difference according to altimeter: 725 m Estimated length: 1500 m Steepness: up to 40° on difficult sections "No hooks left"

First ascent to the summit "Novichok" via the South-East edge (Photo № 1 and Photo № 2). The "Novichok" summit is located in the North-Western spurs of the Alai ridge, in the lower reaches of the "Kalkush" glacier. The approach to the "Novichok" summit can be made:

• from the "Kalkush" gorge along the river of the same name to the "Kalkush" pass, with an ascent to it in 6 hours;
• along the "Dugoba" gorge to the confluence of the Uliter and Ak-Tash rivers and further along the Surmetash river with an ascent to the Kalkush pass from the North-East, 6 hours. The ascent to the "Kalkush" pass is category 1B. In the lower part, there are screes and further on snow, it takes 2-3 hours. The ascent to the "Novichok" summit along the South-East edge is carried out from the pass along the 200 m scree, then a rocky ascent along rocks of medium and easy difficulty - 450-500 m, which leads to a rocky ledge. Bypassing the "gendarme" on the left - 25 m (ropes are necessary). The second "gendarme" is passed head-on along a rocky chimney (stretching ropes), 15 m. Further ascent along rocks of medium difficulty - 3 ropes and the summit.

66. Avitsenna from the Southeast, Category 1B route, Fig. 36

From the bivouac on the upper moraine of the Avitsenna Glacier, ascend to the upper plateau of the cirque across firn fields. Several snowfields rise towards the summit on the right, transitioning into couloirs and talus slopes in their upper parts. Ascend via the second snowfield, and in its upper part, transition to easy rocks interspersed with large talus sections. Maintain a general ascent direction towards a snowy shoulder to the left of the summit. Fig. 36. From the shoulder, move rightward along the easy rocks of the ridge to a wide chimney with large jammed stones. Ascend to the summit via the left wall of the chimney and easy rocks. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

8. Six overnight stays - there are no overnight stays on the route, overnight stay at the base camp. 9. Group composition: Trofimov A.A. — 1st sports category, leader. Burlakov D.N. — 1st sports category, participant. Loginov D.N. — 1st sports category, — " — Sanddalov I.S. — 1st sports category, — " — 10. Team coach: — Karlov G.S. II. Date of departure on the route — March 11, 1972

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan ridge, Ashat gorge, 2.1/2008
2. Peak: working name "Prometheus", 3900 m, via E ridge.
3. Proposed 3A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Height difference: 210 m. Length: 360 m. Length of V category of difficulty: 140 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 45°.
6. 1 hook left on descent.

Passport

I. Rock category 2. Spurs of the Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge 3. Peak 4240 via the right part of the N-3 wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference 940 m, length 1020 m, length of sections with category IV difficulty — 385 m Length of sections with category V difficulty — 370 m Average steepness of the route — 70°, average steepness of the wall section — 80° 6. Pitons hammered:

6. Tomsk student camp

10­ Н