MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko-named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°2′37.71″ N, 43°16′25.86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably category 2B Zaryaev V.V. – Galimzyanov T.R.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Zaryaev Vladimir Valerievich¹ 1st sports category Address: 117465, Moscow, Profsoyuznaya str., 156, bld. 1, apt. 384.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Gebidon river gorge, 2.6.
3. Peak, route: Abduramanova (3250 m), South ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category: 1B rock, p/p
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — about 80 m. Route length — 320 m. Section lengths: 3rd difficulty category – 20 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Gebidon river valley, 2.6.
3. Peak, route: Abduramanova (3250 m), North ridge.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 2A rock, p/p
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — about 300 m Route length — 500–600 m; Length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 80 m; 2nd category of difficulty — 180 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
6. Belaying through ledges, rock pitons.
7. Number of walking hours/days — 5–6/1

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: peak Agibalova (3705 m): via West-East towers, traverse
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 900 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 110 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 55°
6. Number of pitons driven: 6 pcs., number of chocks: 5 pcs.
7. Number of walking hours / days: 7 / 1
8. Number of overnight stays: 1 — at a bivouac

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugan Range, classification section number – 2.6.
2. Aikhva North (3735 m); via the West face. (“dollar”).
3. Proposed category: 3A; first ascent.
4. Route character — rock.
5. Route height difference – 355 m (by GPS). Route length – 715 m. Steepness of key sections – up to 93°. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 2 m.
6. Hooks left on the route – none.

1. Caucasus, Sugan range, classification section number — 2.6.
2. Aikhva Uzlovaya (3791 m); via the South-East ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B; first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain — 220 m (GPS). Route length is about 800 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 60°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none.
7. Climbing hours — 3 hours; days — 1.
8. Leader: Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports.

Ascent Passport

1. Digoria, Sugansky ridge, section number according to Classification 2.6.
2. Aikhva Yuzhnaya (3731 m) – via the Northern ridge.
3. Proposed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference – 400 m (from point R0). Total route length – about 950 m. Length of sections 4 – 5 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections – 60°

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugansky Ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. Akritova (3768 m) – via the Southern Edge.
3. Proposed 2B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain — 410 m (from point R0). Total route length – 490 m. Length of sections 4–5 – 32 m. Steepness of key sections – up to 95 °. Average steepness of the entire route – 45 °.

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Sugansky Ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. Gabueva Mahara peak (4160 m) — from the South, via the Southern edge.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route elevation gain — about 700 m (from point R0). Total route length — about 1800 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 2 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route — 40°.
6. Pitons left on the route — none. Number of used rock protection — 7.
7. Climbing hours — 5; days — 1.

2.4.1748

I. DESCRIPTION OF THE TRAVERSE OF THE PEAKS PIK KILAR "FIZKULTURNIC STALIN" - KAYARTA-BASHI 3A cat. diff. The first ascent of the route was made on May 14, 1961, by a group of climbers from Tyrnyauz, consisting of:

1. Shamaev I.A. - leader
2. Fatakhov Kh.A.
3. Drobot S.Yu. The group assessed the route to Pik Kilar from the North Karata-Mu glacier (via the "Shakhtyor" pass) as 1B cat. diff.

Route Description

Day 1 - approach. From Tyrnyauz, ascend the gorge to the fork of the Sakashil-Su and Kayarta-Su rivers; before descending to the suspension bridge over the Kayarta-Su, turn right-up along a well-developed pack trail - into the Kayarta-Su gorge. After 0.5 hours and 40 minutes of walking, the trail leads to a small clearing with tall grass and a large stone, and soon exits to meadows near the summer pastures. From the clearing, another 200-300 meters of trail goes through the forest, then exits to meadows, onto a small grassy ridge (with an irrigation ditch along it). Further along the trail, along a stream, through meadows, ascending low grassy hills, we approach the river. Passing small clearings with a stream, we ascend along the cliff above the riverbank and exit to the point where the gorge turns. The gorge turns almost 90° to the left (southeast). Before reaching the river bend, at the beginning of a steep, overgrown with rhododendrons cape on the opposite bank, cross the river where a convenient ascent to the cape is visible. Ascending to the cape, the trail goes along a wide terrace along the high, steep riverbank. Overcoming a small stony ridge, we descend to a large grassy area with a stream.